We mentioned when in Mpumalanga, the Blyderivierspoort hike, that the solid white line in the middle of the road seems an attractive addition to the black tar—a nice contrast. In Cape Town, jaywalking is, if not an art form just yet, it certainly keeps the motorist guessing as to the pedestrian’s intentions. On the other hand, as a pedestrian, you don’t want to be acting within the law by crossing the road correctly but having the motorist take no notice. Perhaps motorists don’t stop for pedestrians at traffic lights (robots) and stop signs because they don’t expect people to cross there—they are on the lookout for jaywalkers only. All this makes sense in a twisted way but it would be nice if the traffic department gave visitors a manual on the de facto ‘rules of the road’.
We admire the workings of the African taxis. We believe it is the closest system to free enterprise remaining. Of course, there are some inconveniences. If you happen to follow a taxi, be prepared to stop at every passenger pick-up and drop-off—there are numerous ad hoc stops. A taxi-driver has a type of mating call, which he uses every time he sees a potential passenger. Each person walking along the sidewalk (pavement) is a mark causing him to toot the horn (all drivers are male). Multiply this by the number of taxis and a large population and there's a cacophony of sound emanating from the streets of the city.
Perhaps the part we admire the most of an African taxi driver is his positioning. We only make these statements with respect and perhaps, a little envy, mind you. A driver is able to sit in the corner with part right shoulder, full arm as well as head hanging out the window while driving, seeking passengers, collecting fares and above all, honking at every pedestrian or jaywalker. We consider it a great talent.
Capitalism demands that inefficient companies fail. However, today’s socialist-type governments prefer to reduce interest rates to near zero, which punishes savers but rewards borrowers and inefficient financial institutions. Taxi-operators have a more direct approach. In event of a dispute, taxi-drivers shoot at each other with guns. Perhaps this is an extreme form of capitalism but it seems to work.
As we prepared to drive to the airport, Friday morning, we made a “U-turn” in the middle of the block. If nothing else, we are disappointed to admit, we are adapting to the driving nuances we criticize. We reversed into a parking space and drove over a nail. Result: a puncture. We intended popping into the store to purchase some more data capacity for the internet; instead, the tyre popped. Panic. Not yet. We roared into a garage close by on three-and-a-bit tyres, approached a mechanic named Achmad, who was eating breakfast and we explained our dilemma. From start to finish, he repaired the tyre in less than six minutes. We filled the tank, purchased the data and headed towards the airport. Today at least, the new South Africa worked better than any other country on the planet for us.
We feel a little conflicted. We enjoyed an incredible upbringing and part-adulthood in South Africa and then moved to the United States. After a rough beginning, living in that country added a new dimension to our lives as we adapted to the many challenges presented. We are grateful for both experiences; nevertheless, still conflicted. Perhaps, in a lighter moment, we’ll head off to New Zealand instead. We hope to see you from there.
As mentioned in our opening, we learned much, enjoyed the people and had a great experience. To end with another cliché: 'You can take a South African out of the bush but you can’t take the bush out of a South African.' I think that’s the way it is and how it should be. “Min Dae…until our next trip”.
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