70.08 Nepal: Begnastal : Rupacot Resort: A truly fine experience while very strenuous.

  We thought it might be an idea to list some of the photographs in the order of the hike. We believe it might give a viewer a better idea of this fantastic experience. It was tough (very) but in a beautiful environment. The elevation gain was over 3,000 feet, 2,000 to reach the Retreat from the river separating the two mountains plus more than a thousand feet on the return from the river to our home. The finish, of course, made it more strenuous as the tougher effort was required at one's most weary time. Hopefully, the pictures will provide some perspective.   

  

  One thing that should not be missed is the incredible effort Jen made in completing this hike following her back injury. I have nothing but admiration for her effort, endurance, courage and attitude. I'll leave it at that. 

  Finally, this hike is in another town, Begnas, which we stayed in for 4 days and 3 nights. Effectively, we took a vacation from our 'home' and hiked extensively on all 4 days. Sometimes, we wonder...Suffice to say, we have some interesting photographs from the holiday as well as very tired muscles. 

In the thick of it, the jungle.
After 2 miles, we spot the target, a few meters left of the protruding buildings. Target is the patio where the Coke Zeroes taste better, after a few thousand feet climb. 

  We approach the swing bridge, the low point of the day (although one of the high points of the day). You figure the meaning.
A different perspective.
A scene from the bridge.
Jen crossing as she passed the halfway mark.
After crossing the bridge and moving up the mountain, we gain a wonderful perspective.

Most hikes in Nepal have paths covered in stones and rocks, formal steps and of course, earth. Jen on one of many sets of steps.
Making progress but a long way to go.
That's the 'Are we there yet' look?
We reach higher up and the paths are of earth, covered in leaves, usually a favorite.
We arrive at the luxury hotel, are escorted in by a manager, and partake in light refreshments, otherwise known as Coke Zero.
Until 2pm, the weather was poor for visibility. We missed the mountains, the bridge and valley scenes, from our destination positions.

Two western celebrations that don't fit into the Nepalese calendar.
What's wrong in this picture? Upon arrival we passed this crowd. When departing, they all remained basically where they had been over the past 30 minutes. (The negative side of superb technology then again the views, hikes, sights and activities were obviously mediocre.)
We will complete the hike in blog format with the next publication, effectively, the way down. Meantime, we'll end with some color we noticed on the way home outside a villager home; plus the late, partial appearance of an aspect of the Annapurna Range.

Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey

  Should you still be with us, we have an ancillary blog following this one (not the return journey), but an unusual experience toward the conclusion of the hike. We promise it may be unique.

70.09 A Jungle Experience not in the Amazon.

  Life can be testing at times and yet, we add to the difficulty by acting carelessly. The other day, we decided to take a holiday, away from Pokhara, and arrived in Begnastal for a 4-day/3-night stay. We packed clothing and supplies for the period, organized transport for the 8-mile trip which took 40 minutes. Transport is not easy in this country. In fact, each trip is an adventure, many we could do without. We are fortunate to enjoy some close relationships in Nepal, and one is with 'Mama', our vegetable lady—we purchase fresh and not so fresh vegetables, fruit and a few odd items from her regularly. Frankly, we are very fond of her and her two children plus husband. We left Nepal nearly 8-months earlier when the baby was 4 months old. She is now walking. 

  The husband drives a taxi so when we need one, we use his service—sort of keep it in the family. We booked a ride for 10:30am. We arrived at the vegetable store, our pick-up point, and noticed that Mama was 'dolled' up; she's very pretty but not 'thinnish'. Turns out the plan was that they would drop us off at the town of Begnas, while the family would then enjoy an outing at the lake. What a nice idea. We had our large backpack, two small backpacks, ourselves, Mama and a ten-year old daughter, plus a baby in arms and of course, the driver. The car is possibly the smallest manufactured, a typical Nepal model with missing seatbelts as well inoperable ones, not an unusual occurrence. Jen had volunteered to sit on the roof rack, but we thought her weight may be a little too much for the position. Besides, there aren't seatbelts on the roof.

  Initially, I mentioned careless behavior. I packed my clothes and for a reason unbeknown to me, I had omitted to put the selected hiking and other pants in my bag. I hate to point fingers, but I would not be surprised to learn that my darling Jen removed them to accommodate extra clothing for herself. What can a person say? It meant I had to wear the same pair of pants each day or find a store at which I could replace the missing items. What to do? 

  Unfortunately, the town is a forty-minute walk each way from our place; we had much tough hiking planned outside of town. It was an ideal occasion where one needed to be able to order online. However, that's not possible in Nepal. 

  We were returning from a very tough hike, the Rupakot mountain; atop sits the luxury Resort. What a day, what a hiking occasion. We were within 30-minutes from home when a scooter passed carrying a small shop of clothes. Unfortunately, it did not register with me until Jen jokingly mentioned I should have stopped the guy and checked out his merchandise. I felt bad once again—I missed an opportunity. Perhaps, I thought, the vendor might pass us again. Jen thought I was joking. 

  Ten minutes later, then on high alert, I waved the guy down and asked to peruse his merchandise. I joke not, see picture, of his load. It was as if I ordered online; the vendor was delivering in person with his whole range on offer. Amazon thinks it does a good job. This guy was outstanding. He brought a fortune of clothing including women's apparel into the jungle to enable him to service me. Okay, let's take a look. I quickly found 2 items that would work although the sizes were very large. Fortunately, their size markings are very different from western standards, so they did prove to be acceptable.   

  We briefly discussed credit terms, return policy, alterations, and a warranty. I wanted to know should I wish to return the items selected, would he collect them? Also, were there any parts of the jungle where he might not service. As expected, there were no change rooms available, after all, we were just emerging from the jungle. 

'I think the size is far too big at 3*XXL.'
'I think the length is good but I don't like the color. I feel bad that I seem so fussy.'
We did the deal, I waived printing of a receipt and a bag to carry my new pants and we parted. It proves that Nepal, in its own way, might appear to be behind in many aspects of life , but is in fact, ahead. Should I be Mr. Bezos, I might be concerned of an Everest size onslaught from a jungle-style country upon Amazon, in the United States...in other locales, too.

70.06 Nepal: Mattikan (partial): Our journey of a third hike using differing routes each time, and an introduction to some local culture.

A section of Pokhara after reaching somewhat less than 2,000 feet of elevation gain.
The entrepreneurs don't appear to have an edge in product or location.
  In a typical local hike, many we keep on discovering, and others we enjoy so much that we repeat often, we will walk from our apartment and head in the direction of the trailhead. This shows clear thinking because after all, should we go elsewhere, we would not arrive at the correct starting point. Having clarified our thinking, we should also make it clear that even when on the long treks, much of the time is spent hiking between towns, villages, farms and many shacks, always tiny stores and probably undiscovered residences. (Obviously, when walking in the high mountains at the higher altitudes, it becomes formal hiking/climbing.)    

  One of the beauties of being in this country is that one is always on a hike when you are just outside the cities and towns and even when you cut across open spaces and jungles within a town. It is the nature of the country that people without much money have to walk to reach places they seek. It's extremely refreshing, conceptually thinking, should one wish to capture the essence of the earlier days of humanity. It is also awfully tiring, sweaty and somewhat dirty arriving at a wedding ceremony after a ten-mile hike. Fortunately, we have never been invited to a ceremony, but our purpose is to walk and hike to all destinations. (Actually, we have been invited to stay at peoples' homes...but we are too shy for that sort of familiarity.)  We do use taxis and buses for the long-distance trailheads and at times, of course, an airplane to reach country destinations. 

 We cut through a tiny village as we return on an unfinished road/path or abandoned project.
Engage with kids on break.
Jen does what she undertakes each day: Climbs steps, paths and other obstacles. Position reached after crossing bridge below.
What's new?
Jen will tell you that what she finds so attractive during a typical hike is that she considers an outing becomes an added experience when one concludes the outgoing leg by arriving at a wonderful destination view (obviously), but in addition, there will be a restaurant (mostly very basic at times), a small temple, some homes or an activity taking place. Basically, a place to have tea/coffee and at times, a meal instead of what we normally carry in our backpacks, people with which to converse, or gain an experience of seeing life in a very different place. We have met many people in those circumstances and have developed relationships at different levels. Funnily enough, some of them have become deeper than we could ever envisage.    

  Suffice to say, when we leave the apartment, whatever our moods, within minutes a feeling overcomes us as if entering another realm. Make no mistake, the city is bustling, the noise level is high, the garbage control could be a lot better, the traffic can be chaotic and yet we meld into it and deal with crossing roads and walking the pavements amongst the chaos with ease and from our point-of-view, naturally. While we obviously stand-out as foreigners, from our perspective, we feel we're locals. Go Figure! We observe while moving quickly the children catching busses to school, parents waving goodbye, the frenetic action on the scooters and cars as people make their way to destinations. There are beggars collecting, old people watching the world pass, shopkeepers seeking customers, to mention just few observations.  

  However, the real action, the unexplained feelings we experience and enjoy immensely occur once we enter the forests, jungles and the outlying villages. The noise level drops and often ceases as we find ourselves on our own, the surroundings are natural, beautiful, serene and unique. The land is not all pristine. Where people undertake construction activities, it's often a negative until it is completed properly. The latter description (properly/neatly) is not a common occurence, unfortunately. Continuing on a hike once again, we seem to enter a different space, an enhanced calmness which is only broken when the very occasional hiker crosses paths or when the locals are performing some tasks in the forests such as collecting timber, leaves or whatever else they require. Strangely, the hiker's dream, Nepal, is very quiet. The action seems to be on the main hikes, the Everest Base camp, The Annapurna, etc. We love remaining on our own.  

A different view of the always stunning Machapuchare Mountain.
This naughty kid is about to be placed in the basket to 'cool off'.
Jen really faces a tough set of steps.
Well worth it as she reaches an interim destination where we partake of tea-and-coffee before heading further up.
As we return from the top, Jen gives a relief salute.
Continues after the bridge to climb again.

  We are confronted with beautiful sights, amazing forests/jungles, chirping birds, domesticated animals in many forms of behavior, views of low and high mountains, sometimes lakes below, and above all, overcome by a feeling of 'we are all alone in a beautiful place'. While we struggle and sweat to reach our destinations (and return), our minds, our souls don't struggle but rather, seek the tranquility, the sights, the calmness, effectively, making it an experience of regeneration. It's as if the physival labor, as taxing as it may be, gives the mind time off to enjoy some peace. Upon breaking through the forest boundary, we enter a new environment which may comprise civilized influence at which time a cup of tea/coffee becomes a reward while we rest and absorb the sites/sights at/from the summit. Along the route, greetings with the villagers take place regularly, including standard questioning as to home country, feelings toward Nepal and occasionally, 'give us some money'.  

  Frankly, it's all difficult to explain because how does one impart such feelings. Many a time, we will lose temporarily a sense of time and place. We occasionally need to pinch ourselves to bring us back to Earth. However, as we often say, the next day is a new beginning and one has to commence over to recapture the upliftment again...exactly as it should be. While we mentioned these feelings a couple of weeks ago, it should always be borne in mind that life is one challenge after another. While these magnificent moments are only earned through effort (and never guaranteed), there are continuous challenges throughout life, no matter where a person finds oneself. 

  Anyway, enough with the text; let's conclude with some local flavor pictorially.

We've seen this fella previously; notice it gives us the eye while mom looks on.
Earlier, we came across this couple; not Jen's idea of fun facing a buffalo.
Some perspective with Annapurna rear, Shanti Stupa fore (left) and on extreme right, next mountain range, the Sarangkot Mountain and Tower, a recent hike undertaken. 

Pokhara from height. Dense, crowded, noisy and without skyscrapers. For height, they resort to the mountains and build upon them, gaining an immediate advantage. Fortunately, we stay near the lake where it is very pleasant. On a daring day, Jen likes to walk the high-wire provided there is little or no wind, of course.
 

 Cheers, 

 'Yo Danda' and Jeffrey

70.7 Nepal: Pokhara, Sarangkot--a few we like on a regular hike to Shanti with 2 diversions.

Reflections of Annapurna South, Pokhara sign, Le Glamour Resort, trees and buildings...occasionally, a person wins one.
We took a break, 3 days and 2 nights in Sarangkot (just below the tower on the peak), across the way, below Machapuchare, earlier in the week. 

In trying to reach heaven, one must first negotiate hell. To reach Sarangkot, one has to struggle through hell...(especially after a serious injury). Thereafter, it's heavenly. (Hats off to Yo-Danda 💖). 

We close in on Shanti Stupa and view Lakeside.
The way up was through the jungle; the route down comprised various types of paths, including stepping-out for the lady, who is about to pass a tiny temple.
I warned the 'tiger'. But did it listen? No! The result after 30 seconds in close combat with 'the lady'.

'We see skies of blue, cloud-covered lakes, too. We see the sun with its own ideas to color them yellow/red.' This photograph is taken from the opposite side of the above pictures, at the peak of Sarangkot. (We feel blessed.)
Early evening, well-above Shanti Stupa (Japanese Peace Pagoda).
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey

We would think a human expression and attitude.

70.05 Nepal: Short Summary of the tough Sarangkot Hike from Lakeside, Pokhara.

  The high mountains are fascinating, very attractive; okay, we are stunned by them. Hence, while we try to limit the number of photographs, we do publish less than desired, especially because we see them from so many different hikes and places. Anyway, don't get us started on the beauty, size, variation, covering and so much more of the Annapurna Range, in particular. 

Annapurna South and to the right Machapuchare at sunrise...we stand in awe and most humble.

  Jen was not looking forward to hiking to Sarangkot, a strenuous hike of just under 3,000 feet, including places of net altitude loss on the way up, via the Methlang approach. The main reason, of course, was the recent set-"back" suffered. However, after entering our third week in Nepal, she announced she was ready. We decided to spend 2-nights in the village, a lovely place from which to view the lake below and the surrounding mountains, both on a par with ours as well those reaching more than 20,000 feet higher. Makes one wonder about classifying the hike as challenging. 

  We have included less than a dozen photographs, as we are far behind in all publications. Because we have mentioned Sarangkot frequently, we decided on this summarized blog. However, we'll also include a typical Nepalese tidbit that occurred close to reaching the top. 

  I walked toward what I considered a retired elderly fellow who I'd guessed his age at about seventy-five years old. As I reached him, he asked me how I was feeling. I replied good but a little tired, more showing respect for the toughness of the hike. I actually felt better than I have for a while. 

  In a typical local 'inquisitive' manner, he asked how old I was. I replied honestly, of course, as being seventy-three. He looked me up-and-down and retorted that "I do see you are quite old." (Thanks, buddy, especially from someone who did not look younger, in fact, older.) He then proceeded to inform me that he was only sixty. 

  "Perhaps you should have carried me up, or at least my heavy bag," I smiled. It was a rather enjoyable moment as we closed in on the peak and tower thereupon. As an aside, the Nepalese do look far older than they are...it's been a tough life. 

After passing Methlang, part way up, Jen continues to lose ground on the climb after more than an hour on trail. The Sarangkot Tower is visible with the golden elephant icon to the left (see below).
As we pass through the jungle about 30 minutes from home, this wonderful view appears.
On track, we find some farmland filled with color.
Machapuchare at sunrise from the Sarangkot Peak; at least, the 24th place from which we have viewed this icon, probably many more spots.
If you can't climb them, try flying below.
Without being specific, this scene resonates with one of us.
The third photograph shows Jen way below looking up to the tiny sight of Ganesh, the golden icon. It's a set of elephant heads on human bodies. Here is a lit-up night scene.
A shot (rough) of part of Fewa Lake and surround at night, approximately, from an altitude approaching 3,000 feet higher...with a (basic) camera
A view of the other side of the lake from lesser height.
Let's close with Jen trudging up a steep set of steps as we close in on the peak.

 Cheers, 

Yo-Danda and Jeffrey