Supplement to Front Cover: Softening the Rugged Beauty of the Mountains.

Turning to the side, absorbing the sights and coloring of the mountain while ascending.
Machapuchare with very little snow; let's try some color.
"What do they say about the 'tall poppy'?" Ranging from 23 to 27 thousand feet (peaks), the Annapurna's, one could consider them tall.

66:13/14 Nepal: Two Peaks above Kristie: Crossing two mountains to reach the tower...doesn't get better than this. Different days, varying destinations.

While this part of the city is 'cluttered', there are very few high-rises which we think lessens the impact of density. Real density arises in my head on some days. Nevertheless, everything looks much better from height. Jenni's thinking of walking about on stilts. In every family, there's a clown.

This looks gorgeous at any level. We pass this tree on the way to the top.
Head down to the bridge so we can go upwards...is nothing straightforward?
In the beginning...
Only 2 hours to go to reach the tower...it better be 'pretty'. She's already lost her steps.
'Confession time': We always tell people we hike. However, we finally come clean and reveal our regular transportation. Notice it's classified as 'deluxe', luxury travel for us only, of course. Seriously though, how vehicles and big busses get to some places is beyond our ken. Then again, we're in Nepal.
We spot an error on the bus marking. At times, I can become impatient at the carelessness portrayed. 'Tom and Jerry'. C'mon fellas, get it right. "Tom and JENNY"...surely. Notice the hurt on the poor woman's face. (These guys need a course in American sensitivity studies.)
We were on our way back, still having 2-hours to walk when we came across this 'couple'. From the garden above, a voice cried out. 

"How do you like my buffalo? It's producing 2 litres of milk, twice per day." 

The Nepalese are very proud of their homes and especially should they have a buffalo or two in the backyard. No bull. We were happy to share our knowledge of animal husbandry with the man, offer compliments, too, but had to get going before sunset...and the next milking. I felt bad in case he thought I was being a little jealous. My action to hurry along might have been construed as "Tit-for-tat."
There's Shanti Stupa for perspective. It's a regular hike that's become a part of our lives in Pokhara. We're heading away from it, in the early stages, on another mountain. For those not familiar, Nepal is known to have a few 'hills' covering its landscape.
Some people enjoy a rest. Throw in a beverage and before you know it, they'll request a pillow. This was acceptable to the 'lady'. Notice the chair-seats are designed from car tyres. They are terrific. We would imagine it could be very embarrassing should a 'blow-out' occur while perched on a tyre. (This shot is from a previous hike which was off to a different destination after half-way.)
The telephoto reveals our destination, across a second mountain, to its peak.
'Tower Transport Services' welcomes the late arrival of one of the sedentary 'passengers' to the highpoint should she make the last 30 steps.
A view from the top.
After proving her mettle, she holds the steel railing only because 'it's there'.

At the teahouse on the way up, when asked what she thought of the picture, she glibly replied, "It's for the birds". 

 I was a little puzzled as I have no idea how to communicate with birds never mind show them a photograph. Sometimes, I believe she struggles with a basic understanding of nature. And then to call me a "silly little-ril", whatever that means, made me feel like eating crow.
On our last visit, it was monsoon season; the rivers were flowing. Still reasonably attractive considering...
My dear Jen is quite sensitive. After being teased about sitting on car tyres, she's back to terra-firma holding out in crossing the bridge. It's not a favorite activity of hers...that's bridges, not sitting.
In closing, during this dry season we were able to find a nice stretch of water where we enjoyed the emerald color and flow while patching-up any differences of understanding of a day's exchanged wisdom.

Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey

  Jen and I have known each other for over 55 years while being married for the last fifty. I really thought by this stage I understood her. However, some 6 years ago, we were walking on a road in a quiet part of Pokhara when we came across a couple of cows. Of course, this is not unusual over in this part of the world. However, we are familiar with cows and know them to be docile. Unfortunately, on that day this was not the case because one of the frisky animals butted dear Jen, knocking her over. Since then, she has definitely developed a certain irrational behavior toward these animals. I'm not even thinking about her no longer drinking milk or the fact she is even prepared to contemplate giving up chocolates. 

  Anyway, there we were heading back home when we came across the group of large herbivores. They were intimidating to say the least. I will admit, reluctantly, that I was slightly nervous. These fellas were scary and giving us the 'beady eye'. (Only one of them made the picture above plus calf.) I wanted to return 'the eye' but had on sunglasses. I did not remove them for fear of creating movement which could distract a bull or two. However, I felt I needed to take action, show some aggression, confidence, too. I quietly mentioned this to my girl who was busy munching on a chocolate. "What do you think I should do?" I asked whispering my earlier thoughts. She looked me in the eye and without hesitation suggested I immediately, 

"Take the bull by the horns." 

Of course, I was sorry I asked.

66.12 Nepal: Begnas: Wakening to some of the most glorious sights...ever.

"Hello, Earth. How can we justify sadness when awakening to such sights?"
The power of the female and male working in unison. The rugged masculine mountains softened and beautified by the life-giving gentle, female clouds, while a neutral sun puts it all on display with its own slant. Perhaps in the foreground, "The Tree of Life."
A view, inter alia, of Begnas Lake. The four essential elements on display-earth (soil), air, fire (sun), and water-combine to unify as life (and beauty).
Let's get out and lose ourselves in that mix.
There's always going to be the 'macho' type.
Early morning at Begnas Lake.
Take the gap...grab the reward.
Perhaps if you listen carefully, you may hear the music "When the Saints come Marching in".
The feminine scene of softness and beauty referenced earlier.
Back to reality...the challenges that provide the other aspect of joy. Of roads, steps, paths, trails, jungle and climbs. (Rupa Lake below).
Bold and glorious.
Organized, logical, stylish, natural and yet appears chaotic. Then again, this is Nepal.
  An aspect of being in Nepal, we'd prefer to think of it as living in the country, is discovering the attitude of the people. To preface the comment of the people, we know only too well that most of us are flawed, if not all. Having qualified it, at least a little, we do find the locals to be warm and hospitable. Expressed differently, we've never come across societies that will open their homes to strangers as do the Nepalese. We do recall that from South Africa, but in our formative years, a much warmer attitude when friends could and usually did arrive for a visit unannounced. 

  We have been treated in many instances with this warmth where we are invited into strangers' home for a beverage and chat. On another level, we find ourselves on a hike when we'll stop at a home/teahouse and end up spending time with the family, usually a couple with young children. The issue becomes that each time we pass the home, it requires us to make a stop and resume the social interaction. It's wonderful but on another level, it does create a certain discomfort. Sometimes we've sneaked past a home in order to avoid interrupting our activities. We feel poorly doing this but as much as we enjoy the conversation and exchange of ideas, we have things to do; chit-chat is limiting. 

  The other day we were heading up toward Methlang, which follows a route through partial jungle after which we arrived at the outskirts of the village. I asked Jen that we should try to eat brunch on the outskirts, skip buying beverages as I did not feel like engaging further with anyone. That day, we had already met an 'old' friend plus two fellows on different occasions who offered us accommodation at their residences (professional basis). 

  Perhaps an enjoyable pastime outside hiking, exploring and a host of other activities, eventually I'll get to it, is shopping. Normally, I dislike the activity but not so over here. Then again, this activity only covers vegetable purchases, drinks, sometimes small supermarket visits, and restaurant take-outs. The latter we rely upon seldom in most countries but change our modus operandi over here. Firstly, it's most satisfying supporting neighborly shops and those with which one forms a rapport. No. We are not some charity, or good people. However, it's very special to feel that one is helping or contributing even if only in a small way. We are talking about a struggling but proud society. It does tend to make one over-buy but then the joy one derives is almost selfish. In addition, there are those with whom one seems to form a special bond. The vegetable lady with her newborn child is one of my big weaknesses (I believe a strength (bias))—she can sell me anything although she never takes advantage. I suppose when I came home with a month's supply of cabbages, I might have miscalculated, judging by Jenni's reaction. Then again, one never knows when cabbages might strike, does one? 

  We shop mostly upon returning from a hike as everything is 'on the way'. Since the birth of her daughter, Madge is often in a room behind the store. Therefore, we will begin filling small bags with the items we require before she arrives. A neighbor invariably shouts out which will result in Madge arriving with a smile, sometimes with baby in arms. The latter gives us a wonderful few minutes to 'coo' and derive the joy one expects interacting with a baby who is now able to smile. 

  "Dumb Westerners are here again; better get out front and keep an eye on them," might well be the comment from the neighbor. 

  Yesterday, the routine was slightly different. We stopped for eggs and bananas only as the boss mentioned that one of us required a lot more protein. Apparently, I wasn't getting sufficient nutrients from bread, according to my medical advisor. I had begun loading up with eggs, filling the bag while checking the shells were firm and intact when Madge entered with child on chest being fed. This presented a little problem as we did not wish to disturb the process. When it came to settling, it meant we needed change. The other functions we could perform ourselves easily. By the way, there are no cash registers used in the smaller businesses—scale, calculator and cash-drawer. Solution to avoid interrupting the baby's routine: Simple. Keep buying until no change or little was required. Also, a great way to acquire sodas and other junk food, for protein source only, of course. 

  You know what the end result is? It gives us much joy, keeps us eating healthily should you ignore the Coke-zeros, and of course Jen won't admit it, maintains a high standard of culinary talent through constant practice. In addition, one meets the children and that creates other forms of fun as well as conspiracies. It's fascinating and truly wonderful relating to the kids; each one is unique; each has a spirit that at times can be entertaining, even educational and a bit 'cheeky'. 

  A negative to the camaraderie if there is, is it becomes difficult to choose where to shop. One feels that one is letting down someone by shopping at another favored local 'friend'. It may sound somewhat strange, but it becomes a dilemma except when we need vegetables. There're no doubts or indecision with regard to Mama-vegetables. And by the way, should we need a pre-arranged taxi, we call upon her husband.  

  We met a fellow, 'Hom', (pronounced home)...continues later... 

A peek and peak through the 'looking glass'.
Leave it to Machapuchare to bid us farewell. It will always be there, will we?
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey

66.11 Nepal: Shiva Temple, Shanti Stupa, an overnight visit in an attempt to capture the Annapurna Range 'sunbathing'.

Generally, we undertake strenuous hikes; it appears this meets the criterion.
Annapurna Range across the lake and lesser mountains; Jen once again meets the challenge. Attagirl!
"Good Morning, Annapurna."
"Hello, Jenni and Jeffrey."     (Annapurna 1, 26,595 feet.)
  There are times one does not understand the feelings one experiences. It seems to happen often to us in the wilderness. This is further exacerbated in Nepal. Today was another such occasion as we watched in awe as the sun rose, revealing a large section of the Annapurna Mountain range, something which has proved to be a knock-out when not elusive. What is the feeling? It's difficult to explain, even to understand oneself. Perhaps it's a feeling of humility, of awe, one in which a person feels one has not earned such privilege of comprising part of the natural world or at least more specifically, not deserving the right to observe/witness the miraculous sights and happenings occurring before us.   

Ten days ago, we took a 2-day break from our apartment once again and headed for a small lodge above Phewa Lake, across from the lesser mountains before the Annapurna's. We view the latter range from many different positions, including mountain peaks of some of the great hikes we've undertaken in the Pokhara region, at least a half-dozen. During that earlier period, the clouds became a little jealous and kept the range out of sight. We decided to try the visit again but for a single night only. That afternoon, the clouds had obviously traced our movements, and did a replay, blocking the mountains from view. Nevertheless, we were optimistic as we awaited sunrise, impatiently.     

  Rumor has it the Annapurna's had a fallout with the clouds and threatened to prevent them from resting upon their crests, ridges and peaks should they not allow it opportunities to bask in sunlight more often. They were rather dissatisfied remaining covered after long winter nights when wishing to grasp the early morning light and resulting warmth. If nothing else, the range is far from vain. As beautiful as they know they are particularly while covered in snow, they are quite comfortable revealing their somewhat harsh underbelly, as a matter of speaking. The tension was almost palpable. 

  We are favored to have had many opportunities to witness the beauty of the range (and many others); this day was no exception. Nevertheless, as fortunate as we found ourselves, yet again, we realized we inhabit this beautiful world temporarily. We are here at the whims of nature and sporadic dangerous human behavior, and of course, the discretion of the 'Master of the Universe', while we ourselves contribute relatively nothing to the beauty surrounding us and the engulfing miracles. As occurs frequently, we felt overwhelmed, almost as if we needed those clouds back again so we could shield our embarrassed faces. One could only try to convince oneself that perhaps we are favored to at least absorb and benefit indirectly from such miraculous happenings even as temporary, non-contributing visitors. 

  Perhaps we should look at it from a different perspective. It's an unusual blessing of receiving much, yet giving little in return. No! That doesn't seem valid. Could it be a show of faith and trust in humans? Perhaps, it's a blessing for services still to be rendered, payments in advance. Maybe the invoice is in the mail (or somewhere in the airwaves.) 

   Is the price of life an end to life?

After sunrise, we head on higher where we were fortunate to meet and have discussions with a number of Nepalese people, who are all living abroad. Phewa Lake below and across the way is the strenuous hike to Sarangkot Tower.
The struggle continues, stepping out and up. In Nepal if you're not climbing, you're descending...there's no level ground (mostly). 

  Hard not to stare...and stare.
Machapuchare: Always space for a favorite, the majestic mountain.
The sunlight meets dust and hazy air.
Jen is about to reach the peak where Lord Shiva sits.
This was a moment when I extended a warm welcome to our new 'mates', a Nepalese couple who had emigrated to Australia some years back. They now go by the names of Sue and Didi. Delightful couple!

Sarangkot Tower visible clearly.
Jen discovers a pleasant surprise as we stop for coffee at the top. 

 Big mountains at rear, little Sarangkot Tower in front, clearly lit. Our regular challenge.
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey

Lord Shiva, a different form of test for us. (See below for perspective.)
At the more than halfway mark, we see Lord Shiva, our target.