Essie Katzenellenbogen—a person we will sadly miss, a woman of spirit and always with a twinkle in
her eye. G-d bless your soul, Essie.
A struggle from the beginning, the early stages of a strenuous climb in a harsh but magnificent environment.
The first two thousand feet hits one quickly, the rest just as fast.
Looking towards peak after 6 miles, nearly 3 miles still to walk.
We returned to this glorious volcano/mountain after being turned away on Thursday because of high winds.
We had warned our editor about our diets but would she listen. The velocity had ‘subsided’ from
the eighties to the fifties (m.p.h.) so the trail was re-opened.
We knew we had a tough hike ahead of us but thought whatever happens: This one’s dedicated to Essie
so we dare not fail. The route gains more than 4,500 feet, over 8.5 miles on rough terrain. It never seems
to let up. We are not embarrassed to admit that at times we were tested thoroughly—to put it bluntly, it’s
one ‘helluva’ challenge. We deal well with the lower air pressure at high altitude and were fine today.
However, the impact was strongly felt especially towards the end where the trail remains very steep and the
oxygen is rationed. We don’t like to make personal plugs for the editor (although we love to) but when she
puts her mind to it, she is a tough and determined woman with a shy and gentle nature—it seems paradoxical,
whatever that might mean. (Suggestion to right deals with standardization of photo's)
Mauna Loa from Kea, the scene of Thursday's dramatic hike. We reach the summit, 119 feet higher than
the neighbor across the way.
He stays in high winds on summit to take photos, editor shoots from 1,200 feet away. Peak is
13,803 feet above sea-level, highest point in Hawaii.
We found this view from the peak, quite simply, stunning.
There were three other hikers on the trail, pharmacy students, who we met and conversed with at different
times along the way. At the climax, we met a soldier who drove to the lower summit and then hiked the
remaining few hundred feet to gain the spectacular views. We spent time conversing with him too. Once again,
we find that hike-about provides an incredible forum for us as we meet so many people from different countries,
cultures and walks-of-life—it makes life very interesting and stimulating. As we mention often, when we come
across people doing good things for others, it changes the balance in the world for the better.
We climbed for five hours which surprisingly, went quite quickly. However, as mentioned earlier, it wasn’t
difficult but very strenuous. To reach the highest observatories—they are on two-levels— we hiked up eight miles,
another half-mile to the small peak which is the highest point in Hawaii at 13,803 feet and then back to the
lower summit. Part of our deal, between spouses, was that we would hitch down if possible—we did get a ride
from the soldier. This is the only place in which we have done the one-way hike—a person could get used to it.
After 6.5 miles uphill, another 2.5 miles still to the summit, Jenni gives a 'signal'. Approaching
nearly 14,000 feet altitude, there is doubt whether she is inhaling sufficient air.
From the summit of Mauna Kea, looking north we see hills or mountains on a volcano below.
This time a picture from the summit of Jenni returning to lower-summit in high winds.
At about the 6.5 mile marker, we were confronted by a science fiction scene—numerous modern observatories
dotted on the summit of a volcano—it is quite spectacular. The road to these observatories is incredibly steep;
we can attest to it after hiking up the trail. (The trail only reaches the road at the lower summit after
seven miles.) The speed limit is 10mph (for motorized transport, not hikers) and 4-wheel drive vehicles are
encouraged strongly. It is quite an ordeal. The observatories, representing at least eleven participating
countries, are positioned in one of the world’s best locations for this type of research. Should you look at
the pictures from the Mauna Loa blog (previous), you’ll see the observatories slightly below the peak.
One of many colorful scenes on a volcano that erupted 4,600 years ago, 'kinda' lazy type.
We came across this 'little guy' after three hours, thereafter, it was never out of sight.
Weather changes are the most consistent aspects of these massive volcanoes.
Perhaps the most fascinating part of the adventure, should one have some concentration remaining after
dealing with the strenuous climb and the powerful winds, particularly on the peak, are the volcanic
desert scenes. To view the colored mounds, hills and mountains on the volcano and especially from the
summit is an unforgettable experience. Add in backdrops of the massive Mauna Loa and a third volcano,
clouds and ocean, Haleakala, observatories and an array of colors is nothing short of an out-of-world
delight. Surreal is a feeling one has standing on the peak of this amazing volcano. The only negative
aspect is the power of the winds which make it, at times, a challenge to remain on one’s feet. When Jen
left the summit first, she knew should the velocity increase further, she should ‘hit the deck’. On our
last visit to Mauna Kea Peak and this time, too, are the only occasions we have felt that we could be
blown off the mountain on the final ascent and top.
After crossing the road, we look at the Mauna Loa backdrop.
Lake Waiau, a small shrinking body of water at 13,020 feet. Two years ago, we viewed it at capacity.
Landscapes of such beauty, where you least likely expect them.
When we read the brochure about visiting Mauna Kea and then hiking to the summit, we realized the only
thing more dangerous to one’s health would be eating a double cheeseburger and fries, with all the trimmings.
Should you read the list of warnings contained therein, one might prefer to cuddle in bed for the day
instead—there’s a thought. Oh, the risk-free society or litigation is our game. We’ll stop there as the
editor is giving us the eye. We’ll end by sticking out one of our necks and state for the record: Arguably,
this was one of our five best outings.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
A scarf and balaclava for the 'ice-age' as we rest before 'the longest mile'.
You have to love the irony. She has a 'Free Hawaii' (from America) bumper sticker and the only person
that stops to help her is an American soldier—Isaac Healy. Well done, soldier. (We spent 30 minutes with Isaac.)
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