70:23 Nepal: Route to Kalabang via Shanti Stupa, Shiva Temple and Pumdikot Lodge to arrive at Buddha (icon) Park, a very 'religious hike' (Part 1).

The trio of Moo, Me and 'Me wife' begin a two day hike into the mountains including a night away. Jen believes we should always have access to much milk on these excursions. Who am I to argue? We are currently alongside Fewa Lake, the main road of Lakeside.
The next point on the trail, still within the city, is Fewa Dam. The calm water is always a treat. There's the dam(n) wall.
After entering the jungle, we will spend the next fifty or so minutes climbing through a magnificent environment. Jen makes her way in the quiet solitude while absorbing some of the 'best' of nature.
  We have enjoyed continuous, amazing views of the Annapurna Range throughout our stay, but for a few days earlier in the trip and over the last week, too. During the latter period, we awoke and headed up the 'infinite' number of steps to the viewpoint at the lodge and noticed the haze shielding the range. The air appeared to be thick and because the sun had broken through the clouds in places, the haze spread over the sky distorting much. 

  After staring in the correct direction, always an important element in looking for mountains, it was as if a phoenix had arisen from the ashes. There stood this overpowering white image, much like the mountain we are familiar with, but who could be sure. Was it the imagination playing games? Further concentration and disappointment prevailed as it appeared it had been a mirage after all. Nice try!

  We ordered our usual morning drinks, the original coffee and tea, and absorbed the tranquility surrounding us. Although we had to get going shortly thereafter, we felt drawn to the position. It was soothing; it was relaxing; almost as if we remained seated, we would enter a trance. I turned to face Annapurna 1 and was stunned. It was in view but not in its usual bold form but rather, a far more subtle image. Perhaps it was a ghost-like figure or was my imagination feeling robbed of its role of conjuring images that I find so attractive. Take a look at the photograph and see whether it's real or...

  Periodically, we depart from our apartment and head to another destination to take up temporary residence for at least a night or two as we explore different parts of the region. This week, following a cancellation in the previous week due to food poisoning, we headed to Pumdikot Mountain Lodge. In the past, we walked past the lodge which is situate less than thirty minutes from the town of Kalabang. The latter town houses the Buddha Statue, a rather young Buddha, in the park of the same name. (The Buddha statues we normally see are of a much older and may we say fat, Buddha.) Admittedly, Buddha did live before the 'Weight Watchers' era...(continues at end). 

The last visible spot of the lake and city before the final climb to depart from the jungle region.
Jen leaves the jungle and heads for Shanti Stupa, spire protrudes to the right of buildings. Behind the building on the left is where we will stop for refreshments.
Every opportunity to gaze at the lake is taken. The mountains, as mentioned, are on siesta behind the clouds.
After passing Shanti, Jen heads to Shiva Temple which appears to sit high in the sky.
We capture an unusual perspective of the lord. George Harrison is reputed to have sung a nice rendition to the 'lords'....much before our time, of course.
This is a stairway constructed recently, replacing sand and stones (preferred the original).
Mustard-seed plantations with lake on extreme left, Jen to the right.
Getting higher or the lake is sinking further.
Shanti Stupa which we passed a while back.
Jen struggling up the last section before Shiva Temple. At rear, a large portion of the City of Pokhara.
Even the slope of the steps is becoming more acute...on second thoughts, not cute at all.
We pass Shiva Temple and it appears he is currently on a cruise with a number of guests.
Lord Shiva sits in the frame.
After summitting beyond Shiva, we head toward Buddha Park. Coming up is the lodge, our destination for the night, the hotel retreat in the distance, and beyond that, our final destination (not in view).
At the lodge, we elect the 'weight-watcher's special' for dinner, less than 1500 calories per meal with 1500 steps for dessert. The latter is compulsory.

  We read some reviews of the lodge which were most favorable. In addition, it's positioned close to the mountain ridge. Also, it enjoys the tranquility of the countryside. A nice idea, we thought. We departed from our apartment at about 9am, packed for a 1-night stay with 2 full days of hiking envisaged. The route took us through Lakeside followed by Damside and thereafter, up through the jungle to a mountain above Lake Fewa. 

  Thereafter, we left the forest, stopping for a cuppa at our friend, who has a cafe below Shanti Stupa (see earlier picture 7). We continued onto Shiva Temple in Pumdikot, another very steep climb, where we paused for breakfast and a rest. Thereafter, we continued toward Kalabang but halted at the Mountain Lodge for the night. Hopefully, the tranquil atmosphere would promote a good rest as the next day we would continue the outward journey before returning to our permanent-temporary home near Lakeside. We hope it makes sense to a reader. 

  Things went according to plan and for a change we made a few calculations correctly, allowing us to remain on the mountain ridge for the rest of the hike. It added to the excitement and enjoyment of the experience as we passed the amusement park (Dream City) next to Shiva, (they seem to make religion much fun over here), and then discovered a set of steps taking us down and thereafter up again along the ridge. We had Lord Shiva sitting behind us, a number of small temples along the way and Lord Buddha a few miles ahead. All-in-all, it could be one long religious experience. On the other hand, it could turn out to be a fun-filled trip...which is certainly what it was.  

  As we headed down the steps after first climbing above Lord Shiva, we were accosted by a plain-clothes guard who required us to supply some written information. From time-to-time, we do have to fill in the odd document giving some basic information. It seems this provides employment for people as the information extracted is 'worthless'. I suppose there is not much use of us providing telephone numbers instead of passport numbers. After all, who knows their passport number offhand? We continued onwards seeking the hotel but enjoyed following the trail and avoiding many of the offshoots which would mislead us. We did arrive at the lodge in good time and were hoping that it would be quiet. We do not enjoy crowds. When we departed the following morning, the only other parties that spent the night were those living in the staff-quarters. While the quality of the buildings were not ideal (one adapts quickly, though), the tranquility and quiet were greatly appreciated. We took the 'Weight-watchers' special accommodation, thinking of Buddha, the elder. It's a bit tough as the unit we stayed in is quite some distance from the reception/entrance/dining area. It's a very steep climb on tricky steps. 

  We mention tranquility frequently, but we are not embarrassed to admit how meaningful it is. Often, we feel that we meld into the environment which makes our days even more enjoyable. After a satisfying hike we arrived at Buddha Park, a place we'd only visited once before and recently. On this occasion, it was well attended with many visitors meeting below the icon to partake in a luncheon and all the rest of activities undertaken on a weekend. For the previous visit, we were on our own for most of the period. 

  We spent time conversing with the locals who engaged in the usual questions. This time we were asked to pose for pictures with a crowd who were quite charming. However, we put our feet down solidly when they requested we join in the dancing. Heck, we do have some principles. We met a couple of youngsters, too, all with the spunk of youth.  One, before hearing us speak, took on the accent of an American--quite good, too. Another asked the typical question of 'Where are you from?' This time, after answering from South Africa, I asked him where he was from. Caught him off-guard for a second or two.

Buddha Park in the distance, our final destination.
Jenni on the ridge...a scene from: 'From The Terrace'. Notice the haze as mentioned in the text earlier.
Goodnight from our balcony at Pumdikot Lodge.
Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey 

"Say fella, can you lend a hand."

Lake deep, mountain high.

70:22 Nepal: Pokhara: A touch of this, and that, with much humility. A return to hiking following 'food poisoning'. We need to begin eating grass and leaves.

"Hey, Kids, that's not the way down. You'll fall and hurt yourselves." As an aside, the number of 'new-born kids' we've come across is very high. We imagine the dads spent much time at home with the moms this past winter.
Apparently, it's a reasonable route. Actually, this fellow 'flew', landed poorly and therafter, limped for about 5 seconds. The enthusiasm of the youngsters is amazing as they frolick at each opportunity.
  Unfortunately, a bout of food poisoning laid us low for 3 days, after which we undertook a reasonably long walk followed by a medium length but tough hike. The latter proved to be most enjoyable but not without some muscle pain. We put our heads together and decided that should we continue eating the same foods, a further attack would affect us jointly, once again. 

  Thus, in another show of brilliance, we have decided to split the food consumption into different groups for each. Simply put, Jen will only consume vegetables, particularly greens (legumes, etc) and all other healthy groups so that she maintains a good chance of combatting, avoiding really, a negative recurrence. I, on the other hand, will struggle with the food groups including burgers, fries, cakes, cookies, breads, ice-creams, sodas and those risky and challenging foods. Look, the way I see it, someone has to do it. 

Sunset, prior to snowfall expected later that evening.  

Sunrise following some snow. 

The mustard fields back home and the spicy woman in the background outside her 'new home'.  

If a body sees a body coming through the rye...be sure it's not mustard seeds. 

"Listen kids, I've asked you twice already. Please form a straight line. And while you're at it, wipe those smirks from your faces. Eyes front! Ears back!" Heck, the modern generation. 

Jen heading down a long steep section spots activity in the river. 

The washerwomen having completed their washing and rinsing, now heading home.  

We receive daily reminders of humility, the tough life, and the blessings we enjoy. Today was another of our daily wake-up calls as we joined a group at the latter stage of our hike who had washed their clothes in the river. They collected them, squeezed out the excess water, bundled the heavy clothes to be carried on their backs and headed up a steep set of rocky steps, followed by another hill before arriving home to hang them out to dry. Should we ever complain after washing our clothes, hanging them on the line, followed by collecting and folding them, we should be embarrassed, if not ashamed.

Jen made an offer for the red, cashmere shawl as we walked past the wash line. It was rejected. Phew! 

"Correct me if I'm wrong. However, there seems to be an awful lot of bull in this country."
You asked for a 4-door taxi. So, what's the problem? If you have weight and size issues, think about walking or eating less grass. In the meantime, jump in or I'm leaving without you. By the way, my policy is: "No diapers, no entry".
Our magnificent 'friend', Machapuchare, getting ready for bed. It must be a helluva business laying itself down.
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey

70:21 Nepal: Kahun Danda: An underrated hike to a supreme location.

The target: The white tower of Kahun Danda, over 2,000 feet elevation gain, just protrudes above the peak.
Jen about to reach the 'elegant' tower top, the last couple of steps were built in a fashion to make it the toughest part of the hike. Notice the "blood stains" from unfortunate trips.
Possibly, the finest vantage point, in our opinion, of the Annapurna. Truth be told, the sheer size of the range, it's height together with the cloud formations and different weather patterns combine to make each day a treat, actually a privilege, an unique opportunity to witness this magnificent edifice and surroundings. 

  We have mentioned this before, but it still tickles us. Perceptions, perspectives, and falsehoods. Our eyes tell us the highest peak is Machapuchare (pyramid) but it is just under 4,000 feet lower than the peak on the left and a little less than that number of the right peak. (Clearly, we have some internal issues/conflicts within our bodies.)
  This is a hike we required the services of a taxi to reach the trailhead. The term 'trailhead' is a loose one. Basically, it's the starting point of a hike which in theory could be anywhere. Our definition is it's the position where we commence the hike, but in the general vicinity of the trail/path. In theory, when we commence walking from our apartment that too could be considered a starting point and therefore, a trailhead. However, the nature of the trails in Nepal is that they are practical links between villages, towns, schools and shops. (Our vague definition). 

  Some of the photographs will show us walking/climbing along paths, steps, sand and stones, mostly between villages, houses, primitive abodes, and also on roads. It's very flexible as to routes because there are always multi-paths going to obvious places as well as those that have been developed for reasons we cannot fathom. Nevertheless, it makes it interesting as one discovers new and/or different routes linking the same destinations. They often change the nature of a particular hike. 

Another lovely position. However, I did not mention that perhaps she should have faced in the opposite direction to view the mountains...but what do I know.
A little perspective of where we fit in the world. One of us sits in the ivory tower above and literally 'towers' over the other.
Meantime, to reach this amazing position one can take a number of routes. We prefer one along village paths rather than the road. It makes life more interesting when you have to guess the correct path.
Jen elects to take the steps at the beginning of the hike. Once again, the elevator was not operating.
As we continue up and through the farms/houses and other abodes, we are often consoled should we have forgotten to brush teeth. The resident at back brushes hers, next in line are the cattle and then I'll have my chance. It's very cooperative and comfortable.
Love the colorful flora.
Not sure but this might be considered stunning...Annapurna 1 at 26,700 feet.
We are north of the city. To the south is where we spend much time. In the distance, one can see Shanti Stupa and beyond it, Shiva Temple to the right.
Jen is approaching the last climb which is about to become almost vertical. Well, that's the chance/risk/beauty of the less formal routes.
As we reach higher, a section of Pokhara gives one a different perspective of how large the city is.
A view of the surround, at the peak.
Jen leads us down on the way home.
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey 

  A supplement of more views of the Annapurna Range. 

Beginning at Annapurna 1 continuing to the pyramid, Machapuchare (Fishtail).

Continuing to the right from above photograph.
Seeing we're in the Himalayans, let's throw in a little Tibet(an).
He was so proud that he was able to keep pace with the little Tibetan.
The proverbial 'one more' mountain. 

  "Hey! Have you room for one more? Please, I'm so tired and I don't even need a helmet." 

It was a reasonable request; after all, it's a comfortable 5-seater.

  One of the difficult concepts to understand in this part of the world is that of the scooter, rider and passenger/s. Invariably, one will find that the person in control of the scooter, let's call the driver/rider, will be wearing a helmet. However, the passengers are mostly without head protection. In addition, small children ride with parents often. Those that are able to stand but too young to sit on their own are positioned between the legs of the driver. Next comes the third passenger and in some cases a fourth passenger as well (picture above). Babies and young kids are held in the arms of the mother. This is typical although the most common will be 2 persons per scooter. 

  My question to the Nepalese is how does the driver, in clear conscience, ride with a helmet while his passengers, often including young children, travel without head protection? On subsequent inquiry, it appears that only 1% of passengers wear helmets.