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Showing posts from March, 2018

35.01(a) Argentina: San Carlos de Bariloche: Cerro Bella Vista Mountain hike, the full blog.

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From the peak, a view of what we thought at the time to be a massive lake, Nahuel Huapi, until we came across much larger ones. 'If you go down to the woods today, you're sure of a big (colorful) surprise.' Over the years, we've experienced many coincidences. They provide a twist and most times, if not all, are very pleasant occasions. During Hike-about, we've met few Welsh people, in fact only three, the one being on a peak in Bariloche and a young couple on the Routeburne trek in New Zealand, some two years ago. All three were delightful people. After spending hours hiking in the rain on South Island, we gathered around a table in a slow-warming hut and engaged in conversation with the Welsh couple. The woman reminded us so much of our daughter, Natalie, in form and manner. After talking a while, we introduced ourselves to John and...Natalie. That was quite something, especially as she looked much like our daughter. Fast forward to Bariloche in Feb...

35.3a Argentine: Bariloche: Challhuaco - the unpublished detail. 35.12 Cerro Otto, a steep unofficial hike under a cableway.

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A few yards short of the peak after a very steep incline, particularly the last kilometer. To the west is the city of Bariloche, Lake Nahuel Huapi provides the blue. Earlier volcanic action provides a new landscape and colors. Height always enhances the views. "Did you hear the one about the Argentinian, Frenchman and an old African-American?" We met these two terrific employees operating a restaurant at the trailhead. The Frenchman has the 'floor'. I was so happy to rest after completing a tough hike and still having a long walk to the car. We had tea with the 'boys' and then they presented us with Argentinian chocolate pastry. The kindness of people we meet on the trails and road, not all of course, is so uplifting. The wind was strong at the peak (what's new?) while on the other side of the mountain it was calm. Also, we had the whole trail to ourselves. The road in the park was so poor that we damaged the windscreen of our ...

Two meaningful hikes followed by something quite different in the north.

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On a long and meaningful day-trek, we peer through the forest and catch a glimpse of Cerro Fitz Roy and to its left, Cerro Torre near El Chalten. The remarkable Iguazu Falls of Argentina (and Brazil and Paraguay.) At the Devil's throat, the water barrels over the top. We arrive at the end of a challenging hike (Laguna De Los Tres) near El Chalten to be greeted coldly but nevertheless, spectacularly. Well..., yes. More to follow in due course... Cheers, Jenni and Jeffrey 'One for the money, two for the show...' looking across the border to Brazil. (Apparently, the drought is broken.)

35.11 Odds and sods in Argentina, anything but hiking.

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Summing up three weeks in San Carlos de Bariloche ...(text at the end). In trying to supplement our income, I joined AA of Argentina, car service not alcohol dependency. Looks like neither my compact brain nor bulk meets the requirements. Felt like it, too. A fellow from Seattle ran down his battery, the third person we've come across from that city since our arrival in Bariloche. Unfortunately, I'm learning so much about the aging process and it confirms a lot of what I've heard. However, it beats the alternative, they tell us. That's the exact point of aging. Look how she struggles down that acute slope with her walking stick. (It was really steep; the picture is most deceptive). These sudden downpours sure can isolate a person. Actually, chunks from Perito Moreno glacier collapsed into a lagoon causing the water level to rise and strand another 'turiste'. "Say fella, I'm looking to buy a beach umbrella...come to think of it, ...

35.10 Bariloche, Argentina: Catedral Ski Resort to Refugio Frey, a long journey to a delightful setting.

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"Red, red wine...Blue, blue water". Many people undertake the hike with the intention of spending a night at the refugio and then moving onto another or returning the following day. We decided to return on the same day, making it a tough stretch of 16 miles. Although the elevation gain was in the mid-2000's, much of it was during the final push to reach Refugio Frey, a period when we were obviously more tired than at any other stage of the trek. We met a few Brazilian youngsters at the top. Jonny, the most vocal of the group, shared his philosophy of life with us which we found interesting. It seems many of the younger generation are tending to place less emphasis on material well-being than earlier ones. This is hardly a scientific survey but something we have discerned over the years. While our generation seemed to be highly focused on education, pursuing jobs and business opportunities and family life, there seems to be a different ethic with the younger set....