Jen reaches the halfway mark...on the way up.
Into the heart of the southern alps: sometimes intimidating, always thrilling.
Should one wish to characterize New Zealand’s real heart, certainly those aspects outside the few ‘big’ cities, one might use descriptive words like hardy, rugged, elusive, explosive, testing, beautiful, mesmerizing, dangerous, unforgiving, erratic, changing, volatile, growing and a whole lot more. Admittedly, many parts of the world could also fit the profile. (Indeed, remove hardy and rugged and one could be describing a woman.) Nevertheless, this seemingly small couple of islands is neither small and certainly not tame.
The last half-dozen or so hikes, essentially climbs, and a few earlier experiences, illustrate this succinctly, we think. Specifically, Avalanche Peak above Arthur’s Pass Village encompasses it all. We can’t remember, although it’s certainly possible, enjoying a climb of 3,600 feet in a mere mile-and-a-half through a gorgeous forest and thereafter in an alpine environment surrounded by snow-covered mountain tops, a glacier, waterfalls and other mountains that protruded near-vertically with what seemed to us to be a touch of arrogance. (Coming down the mountain was a less enjoyable couple of hours although what choice does one have?) We think this hike, this climb, this experience epitomizes all that we have written of New Zealand over the years.
Finally, it does not necessarily mean that a person can love the land easily. There are many times that love turns around as one struggles in harsh circumstances and conditions, and on very rugged and rough trails. It becomes testing of the love…but only temporary. (Continues at end...)
Editor reaches a little below peak and wonders...what?
Soon after breaking through tree line, we take a look at the Pass which links the west and east
(suppose east and west, too).
Editor seems to be forever climbing.
We spot another glacier, this time from a different position. It looks like he's about to nap.
Strong winds on the edges and ledges is one of my many fears. It was at this juncture, before the peak, where a channel of wind existed or developed.
The Devil's Punchbowl. We've seen the waterfall from the bottom but from far above it's spectacular.
Jen reaches a platform before the ridge; final destination is where two climbers stand, on right.
After passing through a wind channel, he's about to reach the narrow ledge which is the peak. What is the feeling like?
You had to be there.
.
From the summit, taking in the intimidating views.
Crow glacier, situated on the face of Mount Rolleston. Glaciers are effectively rivers of flowing ice. Crow glacier flows at a rate of a few centimeters per day. Franz Josef, see earlier blog, moves at up to 2 meters in a day.
Triumph! Perhaps one of the finest climbs we've had. A little exuberance but it helps Jen find the subject from distance.
Scrambling again...this time in the forest.
Okay, let's go home. The down trails we've faced are mostly more treacherous than the ones in the opposite
directions. We took Scott trail down, the supposedly less steep path than our ascent. Could have fooled us that it was easier.
Following in the footsteps of the editor; not easy, she sets a high standard.
We arrive back home (backpackers) safely. Have no idea what's going through the mind...if anything.
We had a delightful stay in this small village, in public but very acceptable accommodation. As we mentioned recently,
the basic accommodation with the atmosphere it creates is proving to be very enjoyable.
It would be worth traveling to Arthur’s Pass, the Southern Alps, for the sole purpose of climbing to Avalanche Peak. It is mostly climbing, scrambling over rocks, negotiating edges that overlook valleys and the town, thousands of feet below. Moreover, it would be worth traveling to New Zealand to reach Arthur’s Pass in order to undertake the Avalanche only. By now, a reader might deduce we have tremendous admiration for this mountain and the surroundings, the hills, the intimidating snow-capped peaks, a glacier, waterfalls, forests, treacherous cliffs, ledges and edges to name some of the attributes of the region. Standing on the peak and the path just below in gusting winds was intimidating at times but a superb experience. Fortunately, the wind was strong in only a small section along the ridge enabling us to derive much enjoyment and allow the
adrenaline to share the fun.
The weather is erratic in this alpine region and thus creates danger, uncertainty and frequent change of plans. We were most fortunate as we arrived in the town in rain and gloomy weather but set off the following day in as good as it probably gets around here. The elevation gain is over 3,600 feet over a marked trail that is less about tree roots and more of rocks and stones. At just before the half-way climb, one breaks above the tree line and the previously wonderful sights are surpassed by being able to look down through the pass, into the valleys, across the way to focus on overpowering mountains. It would be hard to think of a better and more challenging situation as balanced as is the Avalanche. The ascent was tough but glorious; the descent was tough and a struggle at times. Whereas we love the climbs, we are weary of the steep declines on harsh underfoot. There are two ways up; we took the Avalanche trail up and Scott’s down. The former is considered tougher and we noticed that by a lesser number of hikers on Avalanche. But the editor sets the pace and who am I to argue.
The true test of steepness of a hike is to calculate the feet per mile elevation gain or something similar. Last week at Mount Fox, we rose at 2,000 feet per mile, more than double the rate of a testing climb. Avalanche Peak rises at 2,400 feet per mile—this is, if we may add, a vertical type of ascent. It was a mere 2.5 kilometers each way, small distance, much time. Our track time excluding stops was five hours.
In South Africa, one can read or hear the phrase, ‘The Big Five’. Most will know it as a reference to the major animals that can be seen in the wilds. In New Zealand, there is also the big five. This is a fairly new term. It encompasses hikes to peaks in Tongariro, at Mount Taranaki (Egmont), St Arnaud Range, Mount Fox and Avalanche Peak. To be forthright, we actually coined the phrase and nobody else has ever heard it before…and frankly, we doubt anyone cares either. However, we do. The editor tested us as we took on a tough set of hikes and thus far, appear to have survived, although there might have been some additional wear and tear along the way.
In speaking with a ranger today, we mentioned that the paths on the Great Walks are in incredible condition, whereas those of the day hikes, as mentioned in the ‘big five’ tracks above, are tough, rough, at times heartbreaking, and testing. “That’s how it’s always going to be, Sonny Boy,” he answered. Perhaps I heard incorrectly. Not about the tracks but rather the term of address.
Although the track was quiet, there still were more people walking than we expected. It’s the first time we’ve come across Israelis on trail this trip—most unusual. Typical age: Always between 22 and 26 years old. Of course, it wouldn’t be New Zealand without Germans. We met Tim, an Englishman, at the backpackers the previous evening. At 12:30pm, we took a picture of him on the peak. We met many other nationals at ground level but not as many
in the clouds. One young woman at the backpackers (French-Canadian), carrying a load of 55lbs, told us of her year traveling around the world. Another lad of 21, Finn, kept me from working late into the night as we discussed the merits of the
gap year, growing old and hikes in the region while I fed him ginger snap biscuits (the kid was hungry and his Mom and Dad live in...Germany).
When we climbed into bed that night, taking the weight off the legs and feet, brought real pleasure. Heck, after days we’ve had recently, a simple act provides enormous satisfaction. That's indeed a blessing.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
Some supplementary pictures of the scramble.
The last hurdle toward the platform, ridge and then summit. We had to drop-down into the ravine to climb again.
Seemingly innocuous ledge, sloped steeply downwards. Had some sobering thoughts while passing.
A climbing/scrambling editor soon after leaving the forest heads to one of a number of false peaks.
