70.02 Nepal: Pokhara: Hike to Shanti Stupa via the jungle, a truly wonderful experience.

  The hike followed the usual pattern of quick gains in elevation, often through jungles and forests, passing through various destinations along the way. Each place is a destination in-and-of-itself. On this hike, the Fewa (Phewa) Lake was below us (the level at which we began), local mountains across the way, and the mighty Annapurna Range beyond them. As we got higher up in the jungle, gaps appeared in the trees and in a few places, we gained magnificent sights of the mountains, the city and lake. It was, once again, an incredible experience. I think the text that follows attests to this last comment. 

Perhaps we should commence with a great sight: A view of 'the reward for the effort'. Jen is heading to a summit, one along the way of many.
Fewa Lake below as seen from the jungle.
Jen makes her way through the forest cautiously.
A good view of Fewa Lake, the outskirts of Pokhara to the right-below, Sarangkot, a great hike up the local mountain across the way, and of course, part of the Annapurna Range. On the left is the highest peak, Annapurna I (original?), at a mere 26,700 feet and probably a couple of inches.
We find a spot from which to view the city and lake as well as a group of boats for hire. Not much help to us from up here.
Which direction now, Jen?
A form of taking the gap. Really helpful for painful backs.
From the jungle, we find a gap which provides the following sights: Gangapurna and Annapurna 3, at a mere 24,932 feet.
Machapuchare, a great favorite, also know as 'Fishtail'.
From a high point in the jungle, we view a section of Pokhara.
The climb only ends at the top...no easing after commencement
Machapuchare enveloped in light clouds. At the peak of the local mountain is Sarankot in the foreground. The tower can be seen atop as well as an icon of gold to its left. 

Jen is now above the jungle and heading for a picnic spot. At rear is Shanti Stupa and left at the skyline is Shiva Temple.
Reaching the viewpoint/picnic spot. Okay, let's eat, it's been 17 hours since dinner. We only ate a few nuts earlier; I think we're nuts sometimes.
Lake, forest, city, mountain with the incredible backdrop of the Range. To the right, on the mountain above the lake, is a white building:  'Le Glamour Hotel'. Above it is Methlang, a place we ate breakfast 2 days earlier.
  'Tap, tap', the sound emanating from below my feet as the boots made contact with the surface. 'Tap, tap', the sound of boots making contact with the stones, rocks and earth comprising an incredibly good path. We were on the way down from the top of our destination, downhill all the way. That's typical of high-mountain areas—inclines go up without respite and vice-versa. I had developed a rhythm on the return journey which was aided by the atmosphere of the jungle-forest area. Quite beautiful, calm and quiet, green and deserted but for the occasional hiker or local, crossing paths. Maybe half a dozen people over 3.5 hours. Then again, I omit a herd of goats coming up the path heading to who knows where with a shepherd bringing up the rear. 'Namaste', we greeted the guide and all the locals we passed.      

  

I felt so calm, so alive, so at peace. Clearly, the tranquility of the jungle-forest was having a wonderful effect upon me. With Jen just behind as she bravely dealt with her injury, I felt both proud and good about her and the progress following nearly 2.5-months of difficulty and suffering. 'Crunch, crunch' the sound of disturbed fallen leaves littering the path with light, constant sounds in the background of insects hidden in the jungle but giving off a constant buzz, we continued down.        

  My mind, perhaps soul, seemed to meld into the atmosphere and the feeling I had was that of not quite being in any particular place, but rather in a very comfortable space somewhere between here and elsewhere. It's not a place definable or if it is, it's beyond my ken. Rather than bother to think of it too deeply, I set the thought aside and continued to glide down the slope, an eye on Jen every few seconds while remaining immersed, in what seems to occur every-now-and again, as almost being in another dimension. Who knows? What I do know is that it's not a feeling one fights; rather one holds onto it gently and hopefully, remains enraptured or engulfed by it. 

  I began to think of what someone said to us some 6-months after we began Hike-about,  over 15.5 years ago. This elderly gentleman effectively suggested we should get lives, do something useful. While we smiled and perhaps half-agreed, we knew we had discovered something special. We could provide many reasons why this lifestyle makes sense and we do from time-to-time, but I'll add something not mentioned before. It struck me that an important facet of our lives is to live outside formal society. 

  While we like and respect many people and in fact are comfortable with most good people, we have become less and less enamored with being a part of society, its pressures, requirements, especially its concept of conformity. We are not against conforming provided it makes sense. We do have great difficulty with the abandonment of old-world values for the adoption of the latest in 'feelings, opinions and being bombarded with vogue and new-age' concepts. What we respect more than anything, although we are sure we fall short on many occasions, is that of adhering to solid values and good behavior, those based upon biblical values and earlier western standards. 

  In short, we believe we live a life that makes sense to us, not concerned what others may think or believe (within the values mentioned above). We also seek freedom within those parameters allowing us to enjoy the wonders of nature while adhering to the laws and customs where we find ourselves within civilization, while enjoying the material comforts it offers. We realize we require the means to afford this lifestyle of adventure—it really is an adventure—which is part of the reason we continued to try to make pecuniary gains over the latter years. We also find considerably pleasure in sharing a fraction of those gains with those who need it as we move through the poorer parts of the world. While we mention this not because we think we are particularly generous, but rather, perhaps selfishly, derive much pleasure providing a modicum of assistance. 

  It's probably a good time to end this piece as we observe, in our opinion, a world that has lost direction and continues to sink, probably in direct proportion to its abandonment of solid values. 

 Cheers, 

Jungle-Jen and Jeffrey 

After breakfast, we headed up further to visit a wonderful woman who operates a coffee/cafe below the Stupa. Special times. Jen returning after tea and coffee including indulging in a cinnamon bun. Wow!

70.01 Nepal: Jungle-Jen, the return of a courageous woman to the mountains and jungle above Pokhara. A Tribute to a (very special) woman.

   After a month in Bulgaria, Jenni suddenly developed excruciating back and leg pains. It appeared that the nerves had gone awry and a herniated disc developed, added to a 'difficult back' of many years. The short story is that her hiking ceased for the following 3 weeks after which time we returned to the US and began the medical circuit.  

Setting the scene. Machapuchare stands proud...as always.

A partial view of Fewa Lake and Pokhara from the jungle above.
  While each doctor/service provider was decent, no progress occurred in that field. We seemed to pass from one professional to another without any definite plan implemented. Jen, meantime, continued to undertake light exercising, began walking and slowly, increased her level of activity. During this period, she suffered terrible bouts of pain. Things looked very bleak. It seemed only a matter of days when we would have to cancel a booked trip to Nepal. 

  Fortunately, it appeared that the exercise regimen was improving the strength of her leg, the taking of some medicine could have been helping handle the pain levels, and the sheer determination to succeed was beginning to fight back seriously. The final appointment with a spinal surgeon went well. While we sat in his office and he explained something Jen knew very well about backs in general and hers in particular, we mentioned that we were off to Nepal. 

  "That's an awful long way to go," he commented, perhaps not thinking it a good idea. However, when we explained this would be Hike-about-LITE, only increasing in length and effort required, based upon Jen's improving health, he liked the idea. We liked the idea, too, so we were in business. 

  Long story short: The close-to-36 hours trip from San Diego to Pokhara, Nepal was one of our most pleasant traveling experiences although not one we need to 'enjoy' too often. In fact, the toughest period was upon arriving at Kathmandu Airport and thereafter. More about that later as it was quite a series of events. 

  The real purpose of today's blog is to pay tribute to my dear Jenni, a woman of valor, who has displayed an amazing amount of courage while 'sinking in a sea of helplessness and despair'. Following our arrival in Pokhara last Thursday morning, which included a couple of walks over the next two days, Jen selected a rather difficult hike to open up our adventure on the third full day in the country. Obviously, we undertook it in a different fashion from normal, but of the same length and difficulty, per usual. 

  I selected a few pictures to display which sums up what I found today to be a most moving, courageous and admirable display witnessed, perhaps ever. Yes, I am a little biased but in this case, justifiably so. I was awfully humbled throughout the day by Jen's awsome display. I salute you, my Darling. 

  While it was never the intention to push too hard, we tried to maintain a level of exertion that a doctor would find acceptable. We may have strained a little too much, but Jen appeared to be in control at all (most) times, while using our adopted technique to cope with the changed circumstances. We hope this is just the beginning, who can tell. May Jen continue to show such strength and enjoy success while regaining her original healthy state; we also realize it is not entirely in our hands.  

(A special thanks to Jonna and Norman for their assistance.)

After we left the jungle and re-entered the town.

To a person who has climbed hundreds of miles in elevation gain, suddenly this was intimidating.
Reaching close to the endpoint, the Annapurna Range gorgeous as ever.
We did have a tough moment when Jen terrified a baboon. She now wields a mean hiking pole.
Part of the Annapurna Range with a covering of beautiful cloud formations.

The tough and tricky journey continues.
Taking the jungle gap.
After negotiating difficult sections throughout the hike, we were cheered when we came across and ideal home for us. Admittedly, it will require some work to get it into shape but it should be worth it. A coat of paint will make a considerable difference. We meet the owner on the morrow for negotiations.
We're out of the jungle and heading for our destination which is not far from where Jen strides. Behind her is Sarangkot, a favourite hike, which is a little beyond her capabilities just yet...maybe next week. To the left of Jen, sits Buddha observing her fantastic progress.

Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey 

"I want you to know I take our discussion very seriously. Should Jenni try more exercise is something I need time to consider. I would suggest she refrains from swinging on tree branches though."

The wise elder of the tribe continued: "While this is not quite swinging as you saw earlier in the trees, I think you get my point. Don't try this."

65.12 A few lakes of the US Western States that really 'whet' the appetite, for water, including Lakes Mead, Powell, Roosevelt, Havasu and others: Source being the fabulous Colorado River.

Fortification Hill across from Lake Mead, on the Arizona side. Standing in Nevada, at Boulder City.
Above Lake Mead viewed from Arizona, facing Nevada.
  The Colorado, like so many others, is a magnificent river. It flows through 6 states, eventually arriving in Mexico. Along the way, it makes amazing impressions on the lakes and dams, 'ploughs' into the mountains and land, carving a path for its flow. Wherever it touches or whatever it flows over, around, or nearby, becomes more beautiful; many of the features develop the most amazing shapes, colors and imaginative forms. What can one say about the places in Utah, how about the Grand Canyon? 

 The lakes of Mead, Powell, Havasu, indirectly reaching Roosevelt Dam and Lake, are only a few, albeit striking. Let's make a stop at Glen Canyon Dam though, and literally hundreds of other places on its journey. It even 'pops' into Nevada and throws the dice at Hoover, Mojave, Davis and others. Thereafter, it's Parker Dam as the pace slows for California as well as London...the retired London bridge transported to Havasu. I'm tired already; can you imagine the journey it makes. 

  Suffice to say, it's in our minds, a wonder of the world, a place that provides enormous challenges, a time to relish and allow oneself to be transported into another realm as one swims, undertake boating activities, sits with views, or most importantly, climbs up the cliffs and hikes along it, and anywhere else that takes one's fancy. 

  The only thing I'm certain of is that these words do it no justice; the pictures do a better job although fall short of capturing its essence. While we do have a few thousand photographs, below are a mere few chosen at random.

Arriving at Antelope Canyon by kayak and taking in the amazing sights/sites.

At the highpoint of the Spenser Trail in Utah, the Colorado below.
Water wends its way between the walls.
Lake Mead from Nevada facing Arizona.
Hamblin Peak above Lake Mead.
Sunset on Roosevelt Lake.

Lake Havasu on the Colorado River, Arizona.
Wah-weep, Lake Powell.
Jen walks up Spenser Trail above the Colorado River.
Another horseshoe along the river.
Pilot Rock, Lake Havasu.
A climb to the top at Pilot Rock, Lake Havasu.
Page, Lake Powell.
Sunset at Lake Powell with Tower Butte prominent.
Hot Springs, AZ.
Lake Havasu region with Jen coming over the hill, on right.
Lake Powell, Page.

More of Lake Powell.
A walk along and above the river/lake.
Jen gets a little edgy.
Love those Powell walls.
Apache and Salt River off Roosevelt Lake.
Castle Rock.
Golden reflections.
Snow day at Roosevelt Dam.
The choice is up, down or overnight camping. Your decision!
Another horseshoe along the Colorado River.
An incredible horseshoe. During the many occasions we have wandered above the water along this section (Antelope Canyon, not the official tourist attraction), we've never come across another person. However, a few miles away, there are tourist spots at the official, Horseshoe Bend and Antelope Canyon, which are always crowded and charge entrance fees.

Amasa Back in Utah.
Lake Powell, Page.
Goodnight!
Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey