After nearly 2 hours, we have reached a position that allows us views such as this, Annapurna 1 at 26,700 feet. Shanti Stupa sits on a peak to the left.
We cross the river by way of a suspension bridge and notice the water is flowing again.
The beauty for us of hiking in Pokhara and the surrounding regions is that each hike can be modified, adapted, reversed and incremented in length, in so many ways that they each become a different experience. As an example, there is one hike to which we referred to as the 'Towers' on the way to Mattikan. The latter itself can be reached by at least 4 known routes. The Towers, including sub-routes, have even a higher number of paths leading up to them. They are better described as being positioned above Kristi, which is the home of a government medical office.
What that actually means is not something we can be sure of but will offer an opinion that much paperwork is filled out within the office as well as on the outside patio. Should a person be working on the patio, then throw in magnificent sights of the Annapurna Range as a real benefit (tax free), the various temples such as Shanti, Shiva and smaller ones, together with villages visible on the many surrounding mountains...(continues at end).
From the viewpoint where we invariably rest and partake of hot beverages, we marvel at what we witness.
The blooms reappear after a short and reasonably warm winter. We began at ground level to the right of the tree and below.
As mentioned in the text, this scene witnessed from Kristi was (is) stunning. The Towers referred to frequently are where we headed after changing our plan.
In the early stages, Jen is climbing steeply (most times) with the range in the background.
After a long stretch in the jungle, we reach the main road through the villages.
We absorb the farmlands and flora.
We're getting much higher. Machapuchare joins Annapurna 1. The former protrudes proudly but happens to be 4,000 feet lower. Go figure!
There is always someone to talk with, answer questions and throw around some bull. Depending where one looks, one can expect a surprise or two. Strange to believe the buffalo is intimidated by this woman and many others, too.
A buffalo without shame. Perhaps it should spend less time late at night seeking whatever he sought and be a bit more sprightly in the morning. Perhaps it should consider sunglasses.
One of the distractions: Kristi Medical Office (of paper work) appears. Hence, a change of direction.
Jen peers at the Towers on the hill from the medical building and the range at rear. I also gaze at (her)...the rear.
A better shot of the Towers and Annapurna 2.
Jen making her way to the Towers via the Temple...climbing steps for a change.
A view of the steps and path from Kristi to the Temple/Towers.
Jen leaves the steps and makes her way to the top via a very tough path.
Looking back at the road and Kristi Medical office from the path.
Jen sits on the Temple surround and wonders whether she has been a 'good girl' on the day.
After crossing the river, climbing back toward chaos...the bus, traffic and roads.
We reached the office on the way to another destination which caused one of us to suggest a different route home, that is, return via the Towers. This means we would approach them from the opposite side from all previous visits. After a near-heated discussion, we changed direction and headed toward the Towers situate above Kristi, which are built on the side of a temple. The Buddhists like to position temples in almost impossible positions; probably liking the concept of combining physical exercise with spiritual growth as worshippers struggle to reach these high and far-away places. Truth be told, we don't believe we have ever come across worshippers at the mini temples; maybe they are more symbolic than practical. Then again, the hours might differ drastically from our times of hiking. We like the concept of sweating to reach one's destination, confessing to one's sins when tired, and returning home for a shower to get rid of the physical debris after shedding the sins earlier, at height.
Obviously, people realize our love of mountains, viewing and climbing them, and while we post many pictures of such sights/sites on the blog, we try to limit the mountain views within reason. I would like to fail in this endeavor, but Jen keeps me in line or perhaps on track. In this part of the world, they are indeed high and most attractive, daunting and captivating. One could describe them in many ways, perhaps there are insufficient adjectives to do them justice. It always reminds me of the person who said: "If you've seen one mountain, you've seen them all'. We suppose if you've had chocolate ice-cream once, it's sufficient, too.
When we arrived at the government office, the mountain range beyond the towers was outstanding. I do believe I lost my breath and not from the climb. It was overwhelming, and at times, ghost like. It appeared as if it was high above us and within reach by stretching out our arms. It was an amazing sight. Hence, the idea of changing our route back became irresistible. It meant we would follow a steep set of steps upwards, and thereafter a very crude path further up to the temple. We would then pass through the temple grounds and across to the towers, struggle along another crude path, actually not a formal one, and walk down steeply through the orange groves back to our original route. (They really are tangerines (naartjies), but who are we to correct the locals.) Effectively, we would have completed a wonderful loop.
This particular hike with its multi-levels of opportunities has definitely become a favorite and without even taking into account the stop for hot beverages on the way up where we not only have a double-serving, but in addition, view the mountains from a different perspective. The sight is once again, unbelievable. At that position, we recall mentioning it in an earlier blog, after sitting on the verandah for less than 5 minutes, we begin to feel our minds moving to a different space. Fascinating. The young man who serves us is someone who reaches a place within us that for yet another reason, we do not understand. It feels so good to see him although we do not converse much. Actually, it happens often at many of the places we visit for food, drinks and recovering from a hike.
Should we analyze Nepal, well, attempt a simple analysis, we might look at the basic aspects of life and conclude those facets do not meet basic western standards. Levels of hygiene, litter, infrastructure, noise levels, water supplies, transport, etc. are way below what one could reasonably expect in a modern city or country. Therefore, one might depart from the land having been most disappointed. Based upon the facts mentioned (plus many more) that would be both a fair and reasonable conclusion.
Yet, we agree with the facts but arrive at the opposite conclusion. How can that be? Perhaps, perhaps because the people are different. Maybe, society is still driven by the heart and soul and less by the desire for material success and comforts. Perhaps, wealth is not the ultimate goal in life. Obviously, this is a very basic answer but it may encompass the core of life in Nepal.
We think, to provide a more personal perspective, it's probably fair to add an additional thought. Our perspectives have changed over the years. Our desire for luxury living has changed, too. While we obviously understand the need for material wealth and do feel fortunate in this respect, we don't have a desire to live to the expectation of modern citizens. Rather, as Jen has mentioned, living here reminds her of the early days of her youth in South Africa, a different age, a different lifestyle.
Briefly, we enjoy not having a vehicle (and being without many other conveniences excluding hot water/toilets/showers); our apartment is comfortable with the basics but few luxuries. While we could retain people to perform many services for us, we are more comfortable undertaking them ourselves. We may be odd, strange or just silly but at the end of the day, we do what makes us content, what satisfies us, and more importantly, what is fulfilling.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
Loved this view, the photograph.
