32.05 Vallorcine, Alpage De Loriaz: Great hike, stunning scenes. Viva La Francaise!

Some days, the positions are unbeatable.




It seems that each hike is better than the previous one and the latter was great in of itself. There has to come a time when they cannot keep improving. This region, mountain focused, is beyond all our expectations. The French have a way with their trails that make them relatively easy for us to find, clearly marked, well graded but steep, rugged but good tests, many of them inter-linked and with views and atmosphere that cannot be matched easily. It helps that the mountain range, Mont-Blanc, is at high altitude, over 16,000 feet, wonderfully varied in shape and snow-covered.

The trails are not busy but there are always people moving about the mountains. The etiquette is to offer greetings in the local language so unless one stops for a chat, it is not easy to gauge the different nationals. It has happened that we have communicated with people who spoke French to us at first but turned out to be English. This happens frequently. After perfecting Spanish, Italian, Swiss-German and Slovenian, we now find we have to begin all over again in learning another language. We should have commenced with French as it is such a beautiful language to listen to and of course, speak. Maybe in our next life time.

After another wonderful hike of some 2,300 feet, plus odds and ends of rock scrambling, we believe the sights were remarkable.



The caption of the above picture applies equally as once one climbs the rock, the feeling is terrific.



Nothing but spectacular mountains covered in snow.




A hint of sun that appears to have disappeared from the region.




Making the turn to prepare for the jump.




Arriving at destination.





Simply, a favorite.



Stop in at refuge for a cup of tea and rest.




Taking in the overpowering surroundings.




The highest station in the mountains (centre of picture), Aiguille du Midi, 12,680 feet altitude.
Mont-Blanc to right.




Chalets at the hike-end (top).




A favorite, a few days later, illustrating the same mountains from different perspectives. (Bellevue high point.)



One for the road.




Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey

32.04 Chamonix Mont-Blanc: Lac Blanc, a stunning day, hike and views.

"Eat your heart out, Sir Edmund..." well, it's a poor joke.




Every so often, one wakes and is ready to face the day with verve. This happened on Friday. However, the peak we were planning to reach did not seem to match the mood. So we looked elsewhere and found something that seemed irresistible. We did quick research, made a few plans and set out for the next town. Thereafter, it was just one high after another as we climbed to Lac Blanc, a lake from which Mont Blanc can be viewed, at least, from the hill above the lake. More than that, the short but steep climb, normally 2 hours, allows a hiker views of the amazing mountains of the region at each stage of the way. At the lake sits a refuge, perhaps the busiest one we have seen in Europe. People of all nationalities were on the patio, in the restaurant and on the trails soaking up the sun, downing beers, coffee and eating gourmet meals at exorbitant prices. It was a real happening.

What is remarkable in Europe, and in France and Germany in particular, is the number of elderly people attacking tough trails. Frankly, it seems to us that people over 70 do not slowdown in, on or for the mountains. New Zealanders are another group that we have found active on the slopes. It is refreshing and inspiring to witness such activity. It also makes us whine a lot less or at least, moan more quietly.

Some hikes feel much longer or steeper than they really are. In fact, come to think of it, most feel that way or the aging process is kicking in sharply for us. This one was only 1,800 feet to the hill above the lake but because it was short in length, very steep and on a rugged track, it really felt more than the statistics tell us. Fortunately, statistics lie so they say. Nevertheless, it was a wonderful hike with views that were unbeatable. It was our fourth hike in a row following the inter-continental flight so we felt quite chuffed with ourselves. How long that feeling lasts is anyone's guess because this region is so beautiful, so spectacular, that one walks around half the time muttering to oneself. Firstly, the mountains are shaped so incredibly, some smooth, many jagged, the high areas are covered in snow with clouds and mist working their magic and to top it all, cable cars operate at altitudes that both amaze and frustrate a person. Hence, the mumbling because it does not seem possible that construction could occur in such places and at such altitudes. It is most humbling being in this region but also incredibly invigorating and challenging.



Looking at the refuge, Lac Blanc from the hill above with the lake overflow in front, a 'happening' position.



Mont-Blanc, continues to amaze, intimidate and thrill us.




Jen arrives at the lake, looking quite refreshed even before her 'dip'.




Mountain scenes on a hazy day.



Editor is a little late in plotting the route.




Tip-toe through the tulips...oops, wrong setting.




Full size of earlier display, before Mont-Blanc.




'Ders gold in dem rocks above Lac Blanc'.




Hazy day at mountain tops and on glaciers.



Another day, better visibility, a different view of France's glorious range.




Another change in weather.




And another evening, too.



Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey

32.03 Chamonix Mont-Blanc: A loop over mountains and around Lake De Pormenaz.

One of the magnificent mountains of the world, Mont-Blanc—it is mesmerizing and more.




The first sunshine of the day was at sunset.



After two tough hikes, with a more difficult one planned for Friday, we set off on Thursday to visit an alpine lake, De Pormenaz, some 1,800 feet of elevation gain. It's situate outside the town of Servos so this would provide exposure to another of the communities of neighborhoods and homes up in the mountains and down in the valleys. Jenni often remarks how amazing it is to see homes established amongst the beauty of the wilderness, perched on mountains, all soaking in life the way it might have been planned at the outset. Obviously, life cannot be perfect but there's something to be said about living at a pace and in a place where the air smells good, the sights are breathtaking and the people are friendly toward each other. There are many similarities, from our observations, within the various communities throughout Europe living in the villages below and on the mountains.

Anyway, it was not that easy to find the location of the hike, trailhead or the direct trail to the lake. After a less than auspicious beginning, we followed the jeep trail for about an hour, overtook, with great respect, a French tour group of elderly people (elderly is now anyone past 70—it moves up on our birthdays each year.) We ended up looping the lakes and mountains which turned out to be a great result as we remained on the famous GR trail rather than branching off to the local one. However, this did cause, together with the lower trailhead from whence we commenced, an additional 1,000 feet of elevation gain. Nevertheless, climbing is something we love so it proved to be a positive together with exposure to wonderful sights as well as a steep technical descent on gravel, ladders and at times, chains and ropes. It made the 'rest day' tiring but invigorating and wonderful. As we often say, at the conclusion of the day (of course, we are tired) but the gain and achievement adds to our wealth. Our bank account though, not too much wealth, if any.


The editor spent much time on ladders and using chains. She told me she had a good adrenaline flow. For a moment, I thought she was hinting that her digestive system was working well but it was her 'nervous' system instead.



Then she crossed the alpine lake after 2,800 feet of trudging upwards but alas, the gray sky hindered the coloring.




A scene directly from of the Drakensberg, RSA, we think.




Farmer Jeffrey making the final ascent to the alpine lake after taking the long way around. Refugio in background.




On the way back, some 900 feet at almost vertical descent in many places.




A view of one of the towns from part-way up.




Reaching the lake overflow, fascinated by floating grass.





This is the mountain with the chains and ladders taken from part-way up one of the climbs. The climb/(descent)
begins bottom left and snakes up, continuing right and up again to reach the peak.




I said to the editor we'd stop for a snack on the way home but she obviously could not wait. I think this is
what South Africans' mean by "Vasbyt".





Some tricky sections on the way down for the editor or her adrenaline patches as she refers to them.




Cheers,


Jenni and Jeffrey

32.02 Chamonix Mont-Blanc: Hike - Aiguillette d'Argentiere

We left San Diego real early, before the sun thought about rising and with the desert air having failed to cool overnight. It was a little unpleasant, especially as our 3:30am wake time arrived not much after our attempted doze a few hours earlier. In addition, we had to look forward to a session with the “friendly skies” transport company. We’re happy to report they have improved since our last adventure during March—'hats off' to both the flying and cabin crews. (Continued at end...)




Glacial view from Aiguillette top.






One of the 'Village People' breaks into song.





On a cloudy day, the Mont Blanc made an appearance.




Extending the hike to see the other side of the mountain.




Sighting a future hike on the other side of the river.




The position of the highest cable station, the Aiguille du Midi from below our peak. Mont Blanc, Western Europe's
highest, (right).




Reaching close to the end-point as the mist blows in fast and furiously.




We spent much time awaiting breaks in the clouds and mist.



Opening the tele-photo.




Jenni calls for the rope...what rope?




Although we were heading to France, we flew into Geneva. This was not a pilot error but rather a planned destination. In fact, Geneva juts into France and sometimes it’s hard to know in which country one is standing. France is to the west of Switzerland. However, to get to where we were headed, we drove south-east—surely that’s contradictory. For a change, it was not one of our many directional errors. Instead, as mentioned above, it’s because Geneva appears to be situate in geographical France, rather than within the political boundary. After this rather complicated explanation because the positioning tickles one of us; I had to mention it.

The weather on arrival was neither hot nor cold. The people were neither friendly nor hostile. Locals did not smile or scowl, either. Everything was rather neutral. Of course, we had arrived in Switzerland. After packing our rather large amount of luggage in a very small Fiat, we drove to Chamonix Mont-Blanc. After three days in the town, two hikes up steep mountains and having slept on a comfortable bed in a reasonable apartment, we would blurt to anyone listening that this part of the world is extraordinary beautiful. The mountains are gorgeous if the choice of word is appropriate. It reminds us of Andorra but with much higher surrounding ranges. The photographs should do a much better job than our descriptions.

The engineering feats in Europe are outstanding and beyond our comprehension. When we saw the cable ways, ski-lifts and trains in Switzerland we were bowled over. Spain was overwhelming, Italy a knockout, Austria the same thing and recently, Slovenia impressed us immensely. It is beyond belief how these modes of transport were conceived, built, are maintained and function safely and efficiently. Fortunately, we try to avoid them as our aim is to use the feet rather than engineering feats. Nevertheless, when the editor gives the nod, we will take a single span cable car up to a place we believe is beyond belief (see picture Midi).

Speaking of the editor, I think she was offended that I teased her about her gym workouts during our stay in Rancho Bernardo…only once though. Her revenge was to begin hiking the morning after our arrival, accumulating more than 5,200 feet over two days while a little jet-lagged and with cold. She knows how to play rough when I act ‘inappropriately’.
(More next time…)


So intimidating...




Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey

32.01 Chamonix Mont-Blanc, France, heading toward Mer de Glace glacier.

This was our first hike in Chamonix Mont-Blanc. A narrative is included in the later posted blog, the one before this.
The weather was outstanding: cloudless and warm, with a cool breeze providing relief although it was hardly needed. We headed up to the glacier and then further up to the cable station, bringing the accumulated elevation gain to 2,850 feet. As in most places in Europe, there are restaurants and huts (refugios) throughout the mountain ranges. So, a person can stop for a cup of tea and/or a gourmet meal somewhere on a mountain in the middle of 'nowhere'. It's another civilization in the mountains and a glorious one at that. (See last picture.) The contrast between the two hikes is exacerbated by full sun and heavy cloud on each of the respective days.



Early evening on a cloudy day.





The following morning, a sunny day.




Aiguille du Midi, the highest cable station in the mountains.




As we make our way up, the town of Chamonix presents itself.




Mer de Glace is a valley glacier located on the northern slopes of the Mont Blanc massif.





A person can hire this unique accommodation near the restaurant, nearly 2 hours up the mountain.



We hiked up to the cable station and were rewarded with outstanding views.




"Please, Madame Twist, I'd like some more." Food and beverage service in the mountains.




Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey