Hike 20: Na Pali Cliffs (Kalalau Trail) from Hanelei Bay side

A view or is that a view?

Contemplating up and over

The 'skinny' beaches of Na Pali

Our path goes that way up

This is reputed to be one of the best hikes in all of Hawaii. Unfortunately, we only had plans for a day hike, completing a third of the twenty-two mile out-and-back track. It usually requires camping at least one night but usually more. It’s a busy trail, the first two miles that is, as it takes the hiker to the beach in a challenging manner. Thereafter, we only noticed four other hikers as we climbed the very narrow and often muddy trail. The mud hinders one and detracts from the occasion but not sufficient to deter one. It is, as we have mentioned ad nauseum, a superb area. It would not be difficult to live on this ‘garden island’. New Jersey, Garden State, 'interesting'.

Weeping Cliffs

We arrived at the trailhead and noticed another great beach. What to do? We could not ignore such a wonderful opportunity. To hike or to the beach. That was the question. What was it to be? Let’s toss a coin, we decided; we shouldn’t be biased at all. Agreed! Tails we hike, was the parameter. Our editor tossed the coin and it landed—‘heads' it was. No good, we agreed, too much wind. After another two tosses of ‘heads’, we decided this was not working fairly. Besides, we thought, perhaps we should be at the casino instead because of the streak we were having. Whoa! Now that’s a place we really enjoy. The only activity we prefer than the action in the great casinos of Las Vegas is watching paint dry. Nevertheless, we have made a booking for a big gambling session—December 2035, just after Channukah. To be honest, it is tentative at this stage.

Back to the coin toss. We felt it was important not to favor any activity, particularly as we have done much hiking. ‘Got it,’ our editor announced. If the coin lands on its side, we stay at the beach otherwise, we hike. A very fair way of doing it, we decided. Given sufficient time and thought, our logic eventually surfaces.

Do you feel the damp, too? Umm, I think I'm getting 'cold feet'. Actually, I have that sinking feeling; please let me through

Great White Hunter returns after recent success. From lettuce to guavas--progress?

A nice experience was eating guavas picked from the trees as we hiked. On the very narrow trail it did not make sense to seek the fruit by searching with the eyes as the drop-off was dangerous. Full concentration was essential. Instead, our other sense, the one of smell, detected the fragrance in the air, easily. It is a real treat to eat tasty fruit within moments of it being picked.

We like...very much

Beach cliffs enroute to second part of hike

We enjoyed the hike immensely, notwithstanding the mud. We traveled past Princeville to undertake the experience. It is not just the special hiking areas that are beautiful. The island, especially the undeveloped areas, are exquisite. The vast tracts of sugarcane land, an abundance of trees and flowers, the ocean that gives off blues that almost make one ‘weak at the knees’; all combine with mountains to portray a projected paradise. Imagine what we could write if we had better skills and worked for the tourist agency.

Nice to see families hiking together

Chasing after the blues

Another big finish

We'll see you in Oahu, our Shavuot destination
.

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey

Hike 19: Poipu Beach Cliffs

My mermaid

A beautiful spot near Poipu Beach

We are feeling a little goofy today. We don’t know why and might not even be sure what that means. After spending yesterday in the bog…no, that should be swamps, not forgetting the mud and slippery slopes, perhaps the mind needs realignment. In fact, for the first time ever, we thought of informing our editor that she should sleep on the couch. Then we had a re-think. We would be the loser. We could not bear the idea of not sharing her bed. We decided to give her another chance and trust that she will choose wisely in future. Actually, we liked the experience very much, the hike—we are only trying to build ‘some capital’ in the ‘unlikely event’ that we upset her in the future.

Golf on the rocks

We enjoyed five hikes this week, each one in a completely different environment. As this is a small island, that is quite something. Today we planned to take it easy and headed for the beach with a view to taking a long walk. It ended up being somewhat of an amazing hike along the beach cliffs, joining the golf course for three holes and ending nestled in a beach cave we found. The views and atmosphere were unbelievable so it became more than just a walk.

Caveman on lunch--His and her's accommodation

Lovely

Ebony and ivory

“A real white African,” uttered black cowboy, Celluloise John Wayne Jay, also known as CJ. We got talking with this real friendly dude who called it as it is. We like that. We’re not into this nonsense of corrupting the language and ourselves as the “p.c. crowd” do. Can you say Geronimo, Mr. President? Maybe we were feeling a little funky. We don’t know what that means either but it too, sounds good.

Waves: Just you wait. Your turn is coming soon

We positioned ourselves in the cave to watch the waves pounding the cliffs. It is an awesome sight—blue shades of water fighting the rocks. After a while we thought about the struggle occurring before our eyes. We presume that when we are not there, the battle continues but we can’t be sure. However, we wouldn’t be surprised to find one day that the cliffs have had enough and begin a major fight back. We almost feel sorry for the waves.

Watch! Not duck. Who's covering your bu...?

Poise, grace and balance--thanks to the backpack &...imagination

It was good to back on the golf course. We even chatted with a golfer who happened to be from Orange County, an hour up the road from our former home. For old time sake, we decided to play the hole. We called upon our former skills to ‘hit’ a massive drive, some 320 yards into a stiff breeze, followed by a great 3-iron within a few feet of the pin and knocked in the putt for an eagle. Wow! It nice to know that a person still has it, we thought smugly. Then again, we have always played a lot better in our mind than on the links.

Body coming through the rye

We returned to the beach, a lot more experienced after our Maui visit. Previously, we thought the bathers were undressed, especially the women, because of the heat. Of course, we don’t notice these women but our modestly dressed editor mentioned it. We have a different understanding now. We think it is all about the recession. It’s a shame but many families have been hard hit by economic circumstances that the women can only afford a piece of string and maybe an eye-patch sized piece of material. We feel so bad that we wanted to hand out some money. Our editor was not too pleased with the idea. She mentioned that she would give us a different perspective when we returned home. We welcome that as we realize we don’t always understand how the world functions.

A little action on the rocks--a tradition of ours

There is, however, one thing of which we are certain. We are so fond of our editor that if we were not married to her, we would ask her to marry again, ask for ‘her hand’, the one without the ‘red editorial pen’.

Kauai's pearl diva...diver


It was a bit of a goofy day.

Hike 18 : Alakai Swamp

Destination via swamps

Every woman's dream vacation

Hanelei Bay viewed from end of trail. To reach this area, one would have to travel 350% around as the road does not circle the island. On Sunday, we intend to hike from that point

Each day we are counting. When we get to fifty, we know we’ll be ready. Until then we continue to count days. This last Shabbos we counted people.We never forget to count our blessings. Most days we also hike, climb and of course, think...in a fashion. We did a lot of that yesterday as we crossed the swamps. One of our thoughts was of our editor. Why did she lead us in and through the mud, into the mist across the swamps to see admittedly, an attractive place? There are questions we dare not ask. Just another of the things we are learning in our quest to understand our wonderful wife and, women in general, before we leave this earth. If Hashem wants us to gain an understanding then it would seem that we have many more years of hiking left in us. Our problem, you see, is that we are a little on the slow side.

Clouds and mist always on the move

We digress for a change. Before we continue, for the record, we admit we enjoyed the eight-mile hike that took us to unusual places in weather that alternated between sunshine and complete cloud cover every few minutes. We are fortunate that we did slip and slide but without injuring ourselves. In that situation, we are always in a state of high alert or ‘orange going on red’ in government parlance. The going was slow in places and quite tough so we spent five hours on the trail and ended exhausted. It was the busiest trail we have encountered thus far, yet not close, in our opinion, to the best hikes in Kauai, and quite dangerous because of the conditions.

Read sign below, no surprise

Trying to keep dry. Go figure!

Not as bleak as it looks, the result of too much rain

Perspective in the swamps

Sometimes we meet very interesting and charming people and other times, not. Yesterday, we spoke to a couple and within a minute, the woman impressed us immensely. She indicated that she had the fortune to complete the hike in sunshine, thus seeing a mountain nearly always covered in cloud. To us it was clear that she is a person whose attitude causes the ‘sun to shine’ when she is around. Another fellow, Brian explained his understanding of living on the Island. We find the food costs to be twice that of the mainland. As we don’t see many opportunities for labor, besides helicopter pilots, we wonder how people manage. Apparently, the natives acquired much land in the earlier days and live off the proceeds nowadays. Whether this is a full answer, we certainly don’t know but we still find it expensive.

A little treacherous in the mud at times

Taking off or landing. Who knows?

As always, there are many Germans and other nationals on the trail. The Germans are a nation of walkers and hikers, no doubt. What we have also determined, an opinion of course, is that Kauai, and Maui to a slightly lesser degree, has a distinctive flavor. One does not feel that one is in America in this part of the world. In fact, it is a closer feeling to the Caribbean than the mainland. Whatever it is, these islands are very nice places to live.

"Pirate editor" walking the plank

Into the valley, out to sea

With all the digressions and our editor being so weary and not keeping an eye on us, we have run out of time so we’ll talk about the great mystery of whales and government another time…

Another minute and it will clear, for a second

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey

Hike 17: Nounou West Trail, Sleeping Giant from opposite direction

We are still basking in the joy following the climb on the cliffs at Na Pali yesterday (Tuesday). The editor’s helper feels that it was a highpoint in his life. Of course, the great highlights arose from the births of Gavin, Natalie and Robert not forgetting Lil’ Ellie. In life, there is balance. Can one forget the great joy when the last child left home? Just kidding, Kids…hmm, couldn’t resist.

Jenni approaching base of peak

"Bamboo Babe" deep in forest

We are not getting much sleep these days, exacerbated with the elation flowing through the body. Who’s complaining? We offer continual gratitude to Hashem as we witness His world. Our cousin, Basil Cohen, after viewing the pictures of the first cliff hike (14) remarked that it made him realize how small we really are, how humbling the world is for humanity. We concur but would add a comment, if we may, knowing that we are often wrong. We see in nature the manifestation of the ‘Hand of the Master’, the Creator’s works. Of course, it is humbling but we also think how fortunate we are: After all, it was created for our benefit and enjoyment.

Sprout Blowhole--another interesting facet of our planet

When we revel on the cliffs we often get a reminder from ‘you know who’ to be cautious. It is good advice, which we appreciate. Sometimes, like yesterday, we think our editor went too far. You be the judge.
“I don’t want to go home on my own, so be careful,” she admonished. And how about: “Perhaps you should leave the car keys with me before you go along that cliff. Leave the water, too you won’t need it.”
Do we make a reasonable point? Until she asks for the wallet though, we can still forgive her.

Hi, yourself. You forgot to leave me the keys

We returned to the east side to hike the Sleeping Giant from a different side of the mountain with the intention of reaching the glorious peak again. We intended to slow down a bit today with this 6-miler as we prepare for a big one on Thursday. It is interesting that one side of the mountain is soaked while the other, quite dry. We meandered gently for nearly two miles when suddenly, the trail changed its nature and we went directly up. We love it that way but the muscles might have a different opinion. We’re afraid to ask.

Shabbos dinner--so fresh that it hops out the trolley and jumps into the trunk

With the wind blowing at the peak, it became a little nerve wracking crossing the 12 inches wide section to get to the top rock--the pictures don't tell the whole story. The adrenaline and challenge sure bring out some funny emotions though.

A bit too windy for comfort

Today, our editor, bless her, has selected the swamp hike. What is she thinking? We’ll let you know next time.

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey

Hike 16: Return to Na ‘Pali Coast, Honopu Ridge

Does it get any better? Drop of 3,000 feet behind Jenni.

“Have you been in a more beautiful place?” We asked our dear editor, as we sat and looked out towards an ocean swimming in magical blues. The majestic cliffs, covered with greenery, stand solemnly by, seemingly watching and waiting. We do not know or understand their purpose but we are in awe of the magnificence of the components that comprise this part of Kauai.
“I agree,” she answers, “although the world is a very beautiful place. Each part of it is unique. One does not have to decide; all one has to do is respect and enjoy.”
We continued to sit and stare at the wonders confronting us. “It makes you realize the power, artistry and creation that the Master of the World has bestowed upon us. If this is what He has been able to achieve, can you imagine what Hashem could do if he had Bill Gates’ money?”

Sunshine on the coast with mist moving inland

Golf ball in bunker--need a wedge and 'copter and maybe a decent swing

"Not a bad view, I suppose." A person needs to get away from it all.

Overgrown ex-trail--Philemon where are you?

Valley flowing into the blue

No wonder we don't get to the beach, more than half-a-mile down. And we schlepped the umbrella all this way?

You'd think the editor would have brought a chair--no consideration

You put the left leg out, the right leg in...

An amateur in action. Note the bent knees. Why?

The wind blew for a moment--it's a scary factor

A private beach with a difference

Another privilege for a lucky boy

For our next trick, look through the boulder...thank you.

Flowers for Nora Laiken & all the women

The hike is close to the exceptional one we undertook last Friday, hike 14. Yet though similar, we rate this one superior notwithstanding the shorter duration. It is an ‘abandoned trail’, meaning that it is uncared for and removed from the official trail guide. It is a pity because other than some rough spots, it provided us with a good test of endurance, the need for some climbing skills and balance and traction on the narrow ledges. It amounted to over six miles and nearly two thousand feet of descent and return. The final part, our return up the mountain, took place in light rain. It was delightful but for the slippery slopes that developed.

Another privilege to be standing there

We often watch the helicopters flying into the crevices, giving their paying passengers wonderful views from close up. Most of the time, we observe from above while standing on the cliff edges. At $250 a flight, we calculate we have saved $ 1,500 in our three visits to this part of the island so far. At this pace, we’ll be earning a fortune in saved money. Seriously, we have seen many more helicopters than people on the trails in Hawaii.

Helicopter snapping pictures of unusual wildlife

Socks on the rocks--the dapper dresser--next year's fashion trend

On Friday, we were fortunate to receive a much-needed ride from the trailhead to our car. Today, we consider ourselves fortunate to have reciprocated to a charming young German couple. We ended sharing stories of the trails for half-an-hour. They have visited New Zealand and so it made our discussion even more meaningful. We look forward to crossing paths with Louisa and Tillman sometime in the future.

Beach blues

Time to go home, again

Jenni finishes. Abandoned trailhead hardly portends the hidden treasure...?

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey