11.15 Oh! My Mont-Aux-Sources (mountain) and the chain gang (part 1)

We knew this would be a special day—it began with an early wake-up to watch the sun greet this part of the world—the valley, covered in cloud with wisps of mist rising in the lower front area


The prominent Sentinel stands above the clouds, tinted by the sun


Jenni's favorite view, well earned, too


We read about the Tugela Falls but found very little information regarding it, particularly about getting to see the spectacle. The fact that outside Venezuela, it is the highest falls in the world, certainly aroused our interest. Why, we thought, do so few people talk of it? After all, 2,800 feet of water barreling over a cliff is a big deal. Howick Falls, a recent visit (see blog or two ago), has a height of 330 feet and wasn’t ‘half-bad’. The problem turns out to be access. It is in a very inconvenient position.

We were so positively focused on the hike that our concern was possible disappointment because of the curse of high expectations. The day began with a glorious sunrise above the cloud-covered valley. We knew things would be special when our climb began early, in fact, very early—the lock of our door jammed and we climbed through the window to commence the day.


Somewhere not far from the commencement, already the sights are staggering


Jenni's full of confidence, from the outset

Our journey commenced with the planning and dealing with misdirection from the solicitations we read about accommodation in the area. We are only 20 kilometers from Mont-Aux-Sources, read one, less than that said another. Little did we know that they meant as the ‘crow flies’—there’s that issue we confront often. All well if you are a bird but it does not help the rest of us. The driving time, over terrible roads, would be over 2.5 hours from the hotel each way, near Tendele camp—hardly ideal for a day hike. Fortunately, we found Witsieshoek Mountain Lodge close to the Sentinel parking lot, the trailhead for Mont-Aux-Sources, one of the highest peaks in South Africa, at 10,200 feet above sea level.

There’s one problem though. The final access to the peak is via two sets of consecutive chain ladders, vertical climbs. Once reaching the top of the second ladder, only then can one view the Tugela Falls. By the way, it is so high that one cannot see the last part of the water falling into the river. Two months ago, someone did try look over to see the bottom and unfortunately, got a closer than expected view, falling to his death. On a different note, the mountain is the source of water for five rivers. Finally, the falls is high but the lack of width and flow diminishes the impact.


Sometimes slippery, sometimes challenging but always exhilarating. (First switchbacks for us in RSA)

“It’s moments like these, positioned on this incredible mountain trail that I feel so fortunate to be alive,” our editor commented within minutes of commencing the ascent of Mont-Aux-Sources. We knew exactly what she meant but were quite surprised at her outburst. Jenni is inclined to be quiet and unassuming, tending to keep the glow inside. We think her comment, most apt, summed up the feelings of the day—another one we will never forget. The hike is, including the part above the infamous chain ladders, 1,900 feet and in excess of 9 miles, depending on how much a person walks on the top of the mountain. One can continue into the neighboring country of Lesotho, should one have nothing else to do. It is suggested by some that a passport be kept in the pack. We have enough to carry as it is and we'd rather fly to Maseru.


A little action 'on the rocks', beats whiskey

Our favorite type of hike is of a trail cut into the outside of the mountain, providing exposure to the surrounding views for the full duration. This one is near perfect although we don’t know how it could be any better. From the outset until the top, one is always on the edge of the cliffs. The path is good although there are a few areas where rock scrambling is necessary, especially when one loses the path as we did at one time. However, it added to the experience. One does not have enough ‘eye power’ to take in the conglomeration of features, each as prominent as the next.


A view from above the one set of chains.


Just a knockout, we think

Although we were the second pair to begin the hike, we passed a guided group of foreigners on the way down as well as another few South Africans—the conversations were interesting and informative. However, the views into the lush green valleys, the surrounding mountains, a lake in the distance and the ever-changing cloud formations enthralled us. Standing on the path hugging the edge all the way to the top gives one a feeling difficult to describe—nevertheless, it is exhilarating. We saw klipspringer antelope so far below we could only confirm the specie when we saw the magnified pictures. Funnily enough, the hike is one in which it's not essential to reach the top if beauty is the goal—(yeah right!). The views from the beginning are captivating. Truth be told, we can’t say we have ever had a more enjoyable experience—although the first time we kissed our editor was probably better—very much better.


Craggs in the Drakensberg, a little mesmerizing


Looking down from the peak with magnified lens towards the dam, another very blue body of water

The climax of the hike is the vertical chain ladders, positioned a little below the summit. Once arriving at that point, a decision is necessary. Turn back or continue? The people we spoke with on our return all asked that type of question, nervously. We looked at these imposing bits of metal and wondered. The longer you look at them, the more overwhelming it becomes. On the other hand, a pause gives a person time to ‘steel’ the nerve...


Editor stands next to bottom of first chain, will she or won't she?

...to be continued.

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey