An introduction to the Dolomites...pleased to meet you, indeed.
Through the channel, a spectacular and somewhat dangerous place (extreme gradient not captured)
Illustrates the gradient on our 'favorite' surface...slippery, loose stones. How's that slope?
We spent 10 days in Austria, nearly three weeks in the Berner Oberland and have a week planned for
Northeast Italy. Until we left Grindelwald, our accommodation, if not luxurious, was at least very
comfortable—we find that ideal. Then we hit Interlaken and got a taste of Swiss prices. Suffice to say,
short-term stays in hotels are either: very expensive and comfortable, expensive and not always comfortable or
relatively expensive and very, very basic. We hit the latter in Interlaken. This reminds us of our stay
in Rome a few years ago, prior to Hike-about days, when we still owned a tie and high-heels...respectively.
Some variation in the landscapes
Are you serious? We're going up there? Sloping beauty...part way up, about 1,800 feet above ground-level
The Europeans have a thing about space. Of course, land is a scarce resource. We found that out when we
stayed in what seemed a comfortable hotel in Rome. When we went for a shower, no matter how hard we tried,
we could not wash our lower legs and feet. It was not possible to lift the legs or bend from the waist without
striking the wall or glass of the cubicle. It was like being in a straitjacket as we would imagine the feeling,
having not yet tried one. We summoned our yet-to-be editor and illustrated the problem. We were seeking advice
not hysterical laughter. That’s when we discovered an alternative use for the bidet—washing of feet.
"You're losing weight," our editor commented, and then went on to add, "Which makes you even more unattractive."
'Lovely', we thought. Little did she know we were being practical realizing the challenges we would face in
Italian shower cubicles.
Mountains at rear, Cortina in the valley, the Lazarow's 'slip, sliding away'.
After touching the walls, time to negotiate way down the mountain.
On Monday morning we were setting up for a paraglide. The rain came (phew!) and instead, we caught a couple
of trains, heading for Italy. Before continuing, it is interesting to see the differences between the two
countries. Take a Germanic perfectionist and a volatile romantic and the contrast is dramatic. Vast differences
are apparent as one crosses between the countries. We make no judgments of people on Hike-about although it
precludes politicians, a universal class or more accurately, a classless group. We should get back on track in
a manner of speaking. We arrived at Milan Central, disembarked and hit the tumultuous masses. Boy, did we miss
the mountain calm and tranquility. With a certain earnestness, we remarked that it felt like 'a railway station’.
With a drive towards Brescia ahead and the need to find the car rental office, we decided to satisfy the needs
of our bladders first. Each with three pieces of luggage, one hanging from the body, one being pushed and the other
carried, we followed the signs which took us on a tour of Milano Centralo. Lo and behold, we needed a
Euro each ($1.35) to enter. Unfortunately, we were without local coinage and therefore had to hold on to our
surplus liquid resources. Apparently, you cannot buy instant relief on credit…yet. Then we remembered it had
happened once before—we don’t learn.
Rather pointy features but has a nice personality
We need to relax the muscles as the Lazarows are weary. Before we continue, we must add that we accomplished
some of our biggest triumphs on this trip. The first was getting from Zurich Airport to Seefeld, Austria without
getting lost, not once. Second success. We reached Interlaken from Seefeld with one error which we corrected
after realizing we had made a mistake. In addition, no blows between the editor and driver were traded. Finally,
although we still have quite a few moves ahead, we drove out of the Avis Car rental depot in Central Milan at
peak hour and arrived in Brescia after only a few minor errors. We should mention that Italian roads, especially
in the older parts are unusual (we are being extremely tactful); the Italian drivers are also a ‘little different’,
in attitude and temperament (tactful again).
Fascinating position and we think, picture
Inside the channel, unique and a little scary.
Whenever we ask whether the person we are addressing is able to speak English, the answer is the standard:
“A little”. They are usually most helpful. However, directions is quite an issue. The same street can change
names ten times in a matter of a few miles. Roundabouts abound. As you enter one, each exit points to '18' place
names. With an irate Fiat tooting at rear, one eye on the road, one on the sign, another looking towards the next
exit with its multiple names, one becomes somewhat confused, deranged and perhaps, a little unsettled. Otherwise,
it’s a lot of fun. We call them growth experiences and we find we have many of them.
Up she goes...steep as can be, on loose stones. Wonderful! Hiking pole resting comfortably
in the trunk (boot) of the car.
"Say Mister, can you spare a mule..."
When we left Brescia, we found the freeway roughly where it was supposed to be, headed on the A4 towards
Venezia; we don’t say Venice any longer as we are trying to keep everything in Italian. Today, when we
went for our first hike in Italy, the great Dolomites, we sought out an information office. Ha! Ha! After
arriving in Cortina D’ampezzo, finding the whole town consists of a maze of one-way roads that seem to go
everywhere but to our destination, we were frustrated. For parking, one needs a special permit. So how do
you find the trailhead when the road doesn’t go to the information office, there’s nowhere to park the car
and when you speak to the guy in charge, he casually explains, moving a marker on the map that you go here,
there, round this way, up the hill down the road, round the bend…no problem…prego.
We were leaning like Pisa but still opportunity to look across at our neighbors.
Suffice to say, we found our own hike, which as an opener, nearly closed us down. On a near 2,500 feet
climb on skree or loose stones up a gradient that seemed impossibly steep, we enjoyed another incredible
outing. The thought, while we went upwards, was focused on how we were going to hike down. Whereas all
our hikes in Switzerland were tough, this was tough and difficult because of the surface condition as well
as the extreme gradient. In the end, it worked out well. A safe and successful finish proved to be quite
a start in the Dolomites.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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