Jenni crests peak three or maybe four.
At a peak, (lost count), a fine sight of the depth of the range.
Where do we begin, the story of…off to a wrong start as we confuse the words from “Love Story” with
the Black Mountains Trek. The trek invokes a love-hate relationship between hiker and the mountains. As these
giants, comprising thousands of peaks, ‘don’t say much’, we thought of looking elsewhere to vent. We would like
to meet the designer of the trail, particularly the crest section—up, over and down—at least eight mountains in
a row, in one session. There’s nothing we like more than summiting a mountain or two but hey, too much of a good
thing…we think the guy or gal designer must have had real issues as a child.
A visit to Cango Caves. The artificial light helped with the gold and reddish coloring. The caves lie close
to the Swartberge, if not under them (we'll post a few more later).
Appears Jenni is not averse to catching him in humbling positions. State of mind and body is a reflection
of the 'mound' behind after climbing over it.
One can (should) never tire of the birds.
For the first time over a 4-day trek, we did not see another hiker. That’s 27miles (43k) on a rough
trail almost without a level section. On the second day, we did come across a couple on the jeep road in
their 4by4, with a guide, Douwe Vlok. By the way, Douwe is a terrific guy, a former paratrooper and very
well informed. Anyone wishing to visit Southern Africa (highly recommended) should let us know and we can put
you in touch with him, the man who ‘sells silence’, inter alia. (Mpafa Travel).
The hike commences at De Hoek, a little way outside Oudsthoorn, the former ostrich feather capital of the world.
The town is also well known for the famous Cango Caves. We’ve thrown in a few pictures taken inside various
chambers but have not included any ostriches. Perhaps, we closed our minds to these birds or buried our heads
in the sand, so to speak. By the way, the hospitality and friendliness enjoyed in this country is beyond anything
we’ve come across before. We are the first to admit many problems exist within the country but would also exclaim
out aloud that it is a country with magnificent aspects, not the least, its people. Its potential is unlimited.
The road leads to the Swartberg Pass, completed in the late 1800's, still gravel though. The toll for children
at the time was a penny. Always grateful there's no inflation any longer according to Ben.
What I do for the editor or is it the other way around?
Unbeknown to anyone in South Africa, we spotted a volcano.
We continue to learn from our experiences particularly as we age. Some might say our rate of
acquiring knowledge is rather slow. Another lesson occurred in McGregor where we booked into the ‘honeymoon suite’
at a bed-and-breakfast in this little town below the mountains. What did we learn? It is not a good idea to take
one’s bride for a 14-mile trek through the mountains on the day of the second honeymoon unless the concept is
merely academic. What’s worse was the said bride expected to be carried into and out of the deep bath because
by that time she was fatigued. The 'charming' husband should take into account that he is some forty years weaker
than the original.
Jenni at camp one, waiter having 'brewed' a fresh cup of tea for milady accompanied with rusks.
Nearly as pretty as picture before, the national flower, the delightful protea.
Our landlady in Oudtshoorn, Wilma Pienaar kindly agreed to keep our valuables while we were in the bush.
This afforded us a great deal of comfort. We collected our passes from the Cape Nature Board, after being told
that it was a very difficult hike. To us, the length indicated it being on the short side. All our reading
about it seconded the views that it was strenuous. Our conclusion—it is strenuous, particularly the initial leg
and the section up and down the crests of the various mountains. There are times that one questions one’s sanity
but never one’s purpose or aim. At first, we had no idea where the rocky path trail would take us but after
experiencing a few cruel peaks, the pattern became clear—the path would always lead over a peak and down
somewhat before climbing another peak.
What relief, only 4 more to cross. The snaking path below is the jeep road.
If you're going to wake early, what a way do it. Sunrise at Ou Tol Hut, below the Pass.
The three huts we occupied bordered on luxurious. It might not appeal to those who like the comforts
of 5-star hotels but these had…wait for it…hot water—solar panels provided the power. In addition, there was
limited lighting, too. It’s quite something to realize that one is in the middle of ‘nowhere’, surrounded by
mountains, a few animals scampering about, delightful tweeting of birds, under a sky with thousands of stars
twinkling above and half-a-moon shining prominently, together with our own commode. Does life get any better than
that? Each day, as we arrived at the hut, we stripped, showered, washed our clothes and arranged for the
sun to do the drying. What a system! (To be continued…)
"Can't we sleep up here?" She asked. "I don't think I could face another down."
The picture tells the whole story although in mitigation, the fellow had a fever the night before.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
No comments:
Post a Comment