The target, Sani Pass, at top right.
If you're going to be drinking, then you may as well start at the top.
He doesn't look too impressed. It's a helluva long way to hike for a coke and a 'whine'.
We have mentioned a few times that the Drakensberg/Maloti Mountains form a natural boundary
between South Africa and Lesotho, formerly Basutoland. The only way to cross into either state
through KWA-Zulu Natal by road, is over Sani Pass, one of the highest in Africa. The pub, which is the
destination of many tourists making the trip from South Africa, gets its name from its position at the
top of the pass. The high point of 9,400 feet above sea level is just over 3,000 feet in elevation gain
from the South African Border Control Office and five miles distant. Sani Pass is also known as the
‘Roof of Africa’. It sounded enticing to walk out of South Africa, climb a mountain track and arrive in
another country. We couldn’t wait to try the adventure.
Editor shows how to zig and then zag as she approaches the finish.
Looking towards South Africa, the route followed, from partly up the mountain.
Sunset view of Drakensberg/Maloti section linking South Africa and Lesotho.
The funny thing is that one crosses the border after having a passport stamped, visa checked,
then drives or walks five miles before arriving at the immigration office in Lesotho. Is this area
between the two countries ‘no man’s land’, we wondered? We thought about it a while and were tickled
by the concept but decided, we don’t really care. In a matter of five hours, four of them hiking,
one sitting in a pub in Lesotho, our passports were stamped four-times each. It is the first time
we’ve needed travel documents for a hike. It felt odd to walk out of South Africa, (tough hike actually),
and then jog back into the country. Imagine the scene. A person stops you on a jeep trail and asks,
“Where are you running?” Our reply, ‘We’re jogging to South Africa.’ Sounds impressive particularly
should you be in Kenya at the time.
We met 'Linus' on the way down. A security blanket or the national dress. Go with the latter.
Gained altitude of slightly over 3,000 feet, five miles each way. Thought of repairing the signage while
we had nothing better to do.
Most people drive up the pass to reach Lesotho. The South African regulations demand that only
4X4 vehicles be allowed to travel the treacherous road. Although we only have two legs each, we were
not questioned and were allowed to proceed under our own steam. When researching the hike, we came upon
many conflicting bits of information. Most of it is written for cars and motor bikes. Cyclists and hikers,
of which there are very few, have to rely upon data relayed by drivers. Once we had read the internet
chatter, we thought it would be extremely difficult. However, it turned about to be tough but less
difficult than many hikes.
We decided to jog down the mountain on our return, something we did for two-thirds of the way. Jogging on
loose rocks and stones is not an ideal running surface. For the record, it took us a little less than
two-and-half hours up and an hour–and-twenty down. However, the rough terrain gave our legs something
to whine about for at least the next day or so.
Another scene at the Berg as we get higher. (Note cars climbing on far right)
Not an enticing camp at the top, on the border.
A little perspective from the top. Under snow or mud it can be a little tricky, we believe.
Now for the interesting bit. Nestled at the bottom of the pass, approximately six kilometers
from the border is the Sani Pass Hotel. Almost 40 years ago, we enjoyed our honeymoon at this establishment.
It seems hard to imagine that so much time has elapsed. We have shared a bed for that amount of time.
Wow! On odd numbered nights, Jenni sleeps in the bed and the husband beds down on the floor; on even
nights, we switch. During the honeymoon, we never once contemplated hiking the 3,000 feet to another
country. Apparently, our editor found us very attractive at the time and did not want us to strain
ourselves. Fortunately, we were confined to the hotel premises. How the times are a changing.
Those giants followed us the full way up...and down. (We ended up flush with them at the summit).
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
After coming down from Sani Pass, we thought we'd step into the 'Happy Store' and
see 'what's up' in Underberg.
Some local color. We don't know about you but don't you just 'hate a show-off'?
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