Back-pack reaches peak in harsh fog after 3,700 feet ascent, carrier darts from fear. Signed the 'visitors'
book and headed down as fast as possible.
'One should take a position,' people say, even if it's on the butt at Skaftafellsjokull.
One of tens of pictures taken as we climb alongside the glacier tongue.
This country continues to fascinate two happy campers, literally. It strikes us as a land of
vivid colors, predominantly, blue and white, green and brown and some black. We’ll touch on the glaciers,
rivers, lakes and mountains as we proceed around the country. There are tremendous bodies of water covering
the island which is probably why it has to rain so much. We are on the Ring Road, Highway 1, which as the
name implies, takes one around Iceland by car. We decided to go the whole way, in a manner of expression,
and now find ourselves somewhere on the eastern side after commencing in the southwestern corner. Knowing
our sense of direction, one should be a little circumspect in taking our travel explanations too seriously.
Prominent peak at mid-right rear is the destination. When we first saw it, we thought we should quit and get back to the car
in case we had parked in an illegal spot.
Scene across the glacier and trail we follow.
The Icelanders have to be a tough people. As beautiful as the land is, combined with a hostile climate,
it makes for a harsh environment. We would expect the locals to be a hardier nation than their fellow westerners.
Talking of people, over the years we have found some nationalities much friendlier than others. We believe it is
common courtesy to return a greeting when it’s offered or to mutter a thank you when standing aside to allow
someone to pass. However, we regret that the Europeans in particular, excluding the Dutch and Italians, are
rather aloof. Americans, Africans, South Americans and Australasians are far friendlier. This has proved to be
consistent over the years. We have our theories but they are for another time.
Taking a peek through the gap to the peak.
A bird with attitude. Not intimidated by us at all. Sign of the times?
Glacial river from part-way up.
The hike alongside two glaciers, Skaftafellsjokull and Svinafellsjokull, to reach the peak of
Kristinartindar was one of the best experiences we have had. It began at the campgrounds in
Skaftafell National Park, a great advantage, and climbed steadily for more than four miles. Thereafter,
in three sections, it went from steep to very steep to ridiculous. As we traversed the mountain to the
fore, the sight awaiting us was breathtaking but scary. Having reached the top of that climb, the final
leg scared the pants off us. In fact, for the first time in ten days, we wore shorts. After a cold and
cloudy start to the day, the sun made a dashing appearance and it looked, to inexperienced visitors, that
summer had arrived finally. Suffice to say, the last three hours of the hike took place in conditions of
heavy cloud followed by thick fog and then rain. At one stage, it appeared that we were in near white-out
conditions.
Glacier is not as pristine as it looks from far—in fact, quite dirty.
Wherever we looked, incredible scenes caught the eye.
During the early part of the hike, the weather was near perfect. However, before we commenced the
final ascent, the mist had gathered over the peak and the darkening fog made us consider whether we should
continue. We opted for a fast, final climb and a quick sign of the visitors’ book and return as fast as
the dangerous rock scramble would allow. There was only a single, but critical beacon to guide us on the
latter part of the climb and it became essential, especially with poor visibility, not to miss it. It's
very easy to figure how one can get lost on the mountains in poor weather—a frightening thought.
Getting higher, becoming mesmerized and a little weary.
Shortly before reaching the peak, the view of the other side minutes before a heavy fog.
We walked, climbed and scrambled for 12.5 miles, gaining nearly 3,700 feet, in a six-hour period
on the trail. The sights of the glaciers, both from below and above, the mountains, waterfalls, glacial
flows and other flora and birds kept us entranced. We commenced late following a journey from our previous
camp and felt a little weary by the time we reached the trailhead. However, once we got over the first hump,
we never looked back. Unfortunately, it continued to rain for the next twenty-four hours, making it a
little uncomfortable in the campgrounds. Nevertheless, the feeling from the day’s outing put things into
proper perspective. When we combine the energy expended, the physical challenge, the risks faced and the
beauty witnessed, we know it will amount to an experience never to be forgotten.
The editor makes her way over rough terrain as she climbs steadily before the real action commences.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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