We don’t take slogans and hype too seriously—there’s an awful lot of it going around in the modern day.
So when a hike is rated the best in New Zealand and many say, in the world, we smile and wonder where
we’ve heard that before. We have undertaken this hike a few times before and the hype may in fact be
the truth regarding the Tongariro Alpine crossing. Even the name is exciting. The Atlantic Crossing,
the Sahara Crossing, the Tongariro Crossing—all have a stylish ring to them. Say it out loud and
sufficient number of times and an excitement builds within. Then again that could just be us.
Talking of crossings, to get to North Island, we made another crossing, the Cook Strait. The three
of us sailed on a ferry from Tipton, arriving in Wellington three hours later. For the first time
in nearly four weeks, we came across poles with green, yellow and red lights blinking periodically.
By the way, the third traveler was our rental car.
Man, the place is steaming. Eruption took place in August 2012, seven months after our last visit.
The smell of sulfur was strong all morning exacerbated by being downwind of Te Maari.
This is what happens when New Zealanders are careless in maintaining their swimming pools. Coming down from
the top and tempted to go in for a dip.
Editor approaching the first hut after a four-mile incline. She doesn't look too charmed
about hiking from the lower trailhead, adding 1,116 feet to achieve a gain of over 3,600 feet on the day.
For ‘The Crossing” we decided on a different approach. Firstly, it’s very busy and we only had a Sunday
available—probably the busiest of days. People begin at the higher elevation trailhead and finish at the
lower endpoint. This allows for less climbing. Shuttles are pre-arranged to pick up worn hikers and take
them back to the initial car park—the commencement point. If you’re a local and have at least one buddy
and the fellow has a car, then you can avoid a shuttle by leaving a car at the endpoint. Simple. Now all
you have to do is take a 19.4Km walk or as some people have said to us over the years, “Take a hike, Jeffrey”.
Early(ish) morning with a view of Lake Rotoaira at fore and the massive Taupo behind. Heavy clouds
and a steaming volcano (right) add to the scene.
Early sighting of Red Crater and Volcano, Mount Ngauruhoe. Our final ascent is to the top. Note:
Most, if not all hikers are coming down on the scree. Guess who was going up?
Looking in and across the Red Crater. The remnants of raw, natural power.
As we negotiate a tricky section off trail, we get a glimpse of a well maintained pool
versus one without a 'Kreepy Krauly'.
Our idea was to hike from the usual endpoint adding the additional 1,116 feet of elevation gain, enjoy
a quiet trail until a mile past the mid-point and then turn around at the peak. In the first two hours,
we only saw five other people. For the record, the hike to the first hut, rated as a three-hour walk,
we reached in 1.75 hours. Is the editor hot or on fire? Our original desire was to climb the volcano,
Mount Ngauruhoe as well. It turned out that to do that, it would have been better (essential) to have
commenced from the other side, being both shorter distance to the volcano and less of an incline to reach
the base. In the end, including the distance to the parked car, we walked a little under fifteen miles
on the day. This included at least three miles of running down the track on the way home. The elevation
gain was over 3,600 feet. The verdict: A stunning day. As a hiker, it might be fair to say that until you’ve
completed the Crossing, you haven’t lived. (The hype is quite catchy, it seems.)
Two years ago we met Barry Jahn, an Oregonian who has impressed us with his accomplishments. "Barry, this
is a hike we believe you would enjoy running. Please don't take us with you."
Blue Lake, not far below the craters, but most distinctive in a harsh region (see next).
Blue Lake. Such color against a dull background as we come over the crest and look down
into the water. (Illustrates the contrast (above) depending on positioning.)
A close-up of these amazing spectacles.
We are either ignorant or have confidence in the seismologists in New Zealand or both. Why else would
we all be traipsing across an active volcanic region while observing steam bellowing from the bowels of the earth
and not giving it a second thought. When we thought about it carefully, we acted in the negative. What we mean
by that is: 'As no one has said anything to the contrary, it must be okay. Lots of people are crossing close to
the volcano, so what's the problem?' Talk about all the sheep in the country—you can add another couple.
Had we known about the volcanic activity beforehand...it wouldn't have made any difference.
A view of Mount Tongariro from the car park. It was an intimidating sight plus we had
to climb well beyond it.
Jen approaches the pass after which the craters will come into view. Lake Rotoaira below.
Layers of mountains in the early haze of the day provide a contrast with the craters opposite.
We were worried about poor weather for two reasons: It is usually wet and windy for the crossing
and Cyclone Pam was due to hit New Zealand that afternoon. Following our two-day ‘swim’ over the
Routeburn Track, we were concerned. Fortunately, the weather was in our favor and our bathing suits
and three jackets, gloves and other cold weather kit remained in our packs.
This was the last hike of our trip to New Zealand. What might you ask did you think of being
in New Zealand? For a start, the duration was about two months too short. At least one of us
can’t wait to return. Our bodies departed from New Zealand but we did leave a little of ourselves
over there.
Love this photograph and that's a good reason for another to be included.
Apparently some plants love living in this unusual environment.
A farewell before it blows again. Te Maari letting off steam or just blowing smoke? Whatever the case,
it stunk up the joint.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
No comments:
Post a Comment