37.08 Romania: High Holy Days at high altitudes, at least 3,000 feet elevation gain, above towns and cities and, favorite places.

We obviously love the outdoors, the wilds and living close to nature. City life is wonderful for many but not us. So as a compromise, all of the pictures are from high positions, mostly above 3,000 feet of accumulated gain, while some of the scenes are of towns and cities. A nice compromise, if you will.


Jenni nears a peak after scaling the crags at Craiului Mountain Park.




Somewhere on the Bucegi Mountains, early autumn.




Spectacular park, Bucegi Massif.




Reaching the peak, Vanatarea, in thick mist, Fagaras Mountains.




We thought of sharing some insights from our budding trip in Eastern Europe, our second this year in the region. It's also our second autumn of the year, a favorite season of ours, the first being Argentina during March/April. We never travelled much during this time of the year in earlier periods because of the High Holy Days. A few years back we visited South Africa for the holy days, two years ago Greece, and last year Johannesburg and Cape Town again and currently Brasov, Romania. After sixty years of following the same format, it dawned upon us that should we experience different environments, cultures and adventures throughout the world as a matter of choice, why limit ourselves during these 'religious periods'? After all, having determined a further purpose of our lives at this latish juncture, why impose additional limits? We know how controlling all levels of governments, societies, religions, political affiliations, communities, clubs, not forgetting our self-imposed obstacles, are, that the quest for liberation is an ongoing struggle, an endeavor but one of the great desires of some, including ourselves. The experiences in different countries during these festivals have become enlightening and stimulating and may we say, most enjoyable. In Athens and Thessaloniki, we probably enjoyed one of our best periods. To meet different nationals, sometimes as many as from a dozen countries, coming together to share a festival, each bringing something to contribute from their homeland is truly memorable. Add in the different slants, styles and interpretations of the host country and it makes for a great learning opportunity and actually, entertaining and fascinating, if we may be so bold...(continues at end).



After dropping down, still high above the town of Busteni.




This is only 1,400 feet but the density is remarkable (if you like that sort of thing), in Brasov.




After walking from the bottom cable station...above Lake Balea.




From peak of Mount Postavarul at Poiana Brasov.




Waiting for a summons from a peak in Craiului Mountains.




About to peak at Bucegi National Park.




Domogled National Park.




A look from the other side and above Balea Lake in the Fagaras Mountains.




Jen made a reservation for dinner at the main synagogue soon after we booked our flight to Serbia en route to Brasov. The synagogue, Beit Israel, is 112 years old, the community, add another hundred. It has probably witnessed many joyous occasions and far too many tragedies over its life, events that continue to shock us. With a dwindling population, perhaps a less observant young community, the synagogue was effectively empty for one of the holiest days of the year. In fact, without visitors, mostly Israelis, obtaining a minyan (a quorum) might have been in doubt. What was a climactic moment for me as is always, was the opening chant for the evening commencement. I have not frequented synagogue (shul) over the last few years as much as before but I stood in a foreign land, in a different synagogue and heard "La-li-la-li-la...and my eyes welled with tears and I felt transported to a different sphere as happens each year. I'm always delivered to a time as a young boy being next to my Dad. The beauty is it does not matter where in the world one is because after all, don't we all belong? Why should we not carry those feelings where ever we stand?

After services, before heading to the meal, I stopped two Israelis to greet and with whom to chat. We have seen the largest number of Israelis in Romania compared with any other place outside Israel. After a while, the fellow who had sat next to me returned and asked whether he was hearing a South African accent? Turns out he is from Port Elizabeth and Cape Town, lives in Canada, and has a female partner from Romania who fled before the "wall came down". We met her, too. Fascinating! Jonathan Marcus is the name of this young looking contemporary who knows Jeff Dorfman, famous because he married my dear cousin, Bernice nee Segell.

At the meal, we sat amongst a large group of Israelis, (surprise) one family being former Romanians. Suffice to say, we loved the dinner, the atmosphere, singing and conversation but not the food—work that one out.

In shul the next day, many of the Jewish visitors had moved on leaving the lovely building empty but for a handful of us. The service moved along efficiently which was nice. Interestingly enough, the area has a large number of tourists. We'd guess that the synagogue probably has to allow tourists some form of access. It's the first time we've been in services having tourists snapping pictures of us while they walked about although remaining toward the entrance at the back for the most part. By the time Atonement Day (Yom Kippur) arrived ten days later, we were more aware of the 'intruders' but noticed one or two having very little inhibitions in studying the interior while services were in full stride. Sure was a different feeling than ever before.

Should we ever stand out in synagogue it's not that we pray harder but rather we dress differently. It seems dress codes have changed drastically over the years. Suits, jackets and ties (what are those?) are disappearing. We were limited in what we could bring overseas for obvious reasons but brought one 'good' outfit each. However, had we worn hiking gear, we might have still looked most presentable. Instead, our smart attire was reminiscent of the last century or earlier. We saw 'bermudas', shorts on both men and women, sandals, tee-shirts to mention the fashions—a little surprising for old-Europe. A new trend is tourists popping into shul with backpacks, having a 'quick pray' and then heading back to the tour group. Nevertheless, it did not detract from the occasions for us. Some of the committee members got a little excited when women/men stood too close to the men/women sections respectively. Fortunately, no woman approached me...that's for Jen.

At the final session of the Yom Kippur day, we had arrived for Neilah, which means the 'closing', only to find a large group of Israeli tourists, much older than the usual young men and women, blocking the entrance. The gate was locked. One fellow mentioned that there would be no Neilah service. We spoke briefly and then the tour group moved off. Jen and I waited and within minutes the president arrived and opened the gate. People, we find, often look at things and make facts fit their perceived conclusions. I really wished I could have found my new friend as he seemed keen to visit the interior. We had joked at the time that of course it was closed, after all, it was Neilah time.


From our experiences, we have discovered while the formal orthodox religion is very rigid and staid, the general practice of Jews cover a myriad of behaviors, customs, ideas, ways, celebrations, perceptions that make it impossible to define the religion in practical terms. It seems the Israelis, both hikers and general tourists, are strong followers of this concept, each doing his/her own thing.

On a sad note, we met a mature Israeli couple at our apartment complex. We suggested a hike for them but they decided to take a bike ride instead. When we returned late afternoon, the wife informed us that her husband had tumbled over a cliff after they changed their minds and hiked instead. Fortunately, it was a very low fall and he seems to be doing okay although they decided to return home. Each day, one should count one's blessings.


One of the most enjoyable hiking days, in mist and mystery, in Bucegi.



Winds gusted on the summit in Bucegi but the view of the other side was spectacular, not to mention the position itself.



Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey