The easy beginning from the car park viewed from above.
Jen walking toward the Sentinel before getting close to its top. (Unfortunately, the powers that be have decided to pave the trail, not ideal. You'd think they'd pave the road to the trailhead instead so that people could reach it. What do we know?)
The weather is and was consistent for some of the period we spent in the Drakensberg, the day of our Sentinel hike fitting the pattern only too well. The sun would ‘awake’ at 4:40am, warm the region and provide early, soft lighting to enhance the beauty of the mountains, lakes and flora, even further. Early afternoon would see the build-up of clouds followed by lightning and thunder but not always culminating in rain. The wind would arise quickly and provide an eerie feeling and portend the coming of a vicious storm. Fortunately, on many of the days, this show fizzled out and the promise of always-needed rain failed to materialize.
Jen read the weather reports each day, often a few times a day, as her fear of lightning is real and of course, valid. On the day of our hike up the Sentinel, the storm was due to hit the ‘Berg’ by 12pm, rather early. As we could only obtain a ride to the trailhead at 8:15, it would mean that we would be caught in the predicted storm. Our car could not travel on the road between the lodge and the trailhead—it’s not a tank. We decided to hike the seven or more kilometers to the trailhead at 5am in order to avoid the dangers of a storm. This additional distance amounted to a tall order. Thinking about it further, Jen asked whether the lodge would run another shuttle at 6am. Nelson said he’d arrange transport. We answered we’d find others to join us for the ride up, thereby covering the additional costs, and we did. A former South African of German descent, Bettina, now living in Germany with her husband, Hans, rode up and back in the shuttle. We supped with them that night, too. We enjoyed their company and hearing of their experiences. It’s fascinating meeting so many varied nationals and of different ages, too. It gets tiring being close to the oldest around. Our memories recall the days when we were the youngest.
We began the hike at 6:30am, at a good pace and spent an hour at the top. We could have stayed for a day. As we reached the chains on the return, Jen pointed to the sky. The black clouds were forming. Unfortunately, the forecasters were having a good day. Fortunately, the lightning seemed to be striking the area we had left. Instead, we got some rain to cool us and hail to knock us into shape. Just before we reached the trailhead, the rain ceased and the mountains looked refreshed and seemed to stand even more prominent and proud.
While we waited for Bettina and Hans to return, we noticed workers back at their jobs once the storm had passed. It was sobering and sad to see some of the women using shovels and picks to dig up the gravel road. Call me what you like, but as an old-fashioned male, it’s not appropriate work for females—it’s not fair. We ended up taking over from them, if only for a short while, to give them an opportunity to rest. And yes, it may have been to relieve our consciences temporarily; and yes, I understand that it’s a job and pays a wage but nevertheless, it does not sit comfortably. I wish we had better solutions.
This was our fifth visit to the Sentinel and its surrounds and once again, it exceeded our expectations and previous visits.
Jen stands above the vertical walls over which the Tugela river and its tributaries flow. (Earlier blog shows perspective with regular lens.)
Reaching a highpoint although only a speck in this gorgeous atmosphere.
Not surprising this is one of our, if not the one, best places in the world.
Earlier that morning.
One more of the main member of the chain gang on the first chain.
A view that's hard to exceed. The almost dry Tugela River below as we stand at the top-edge of the falls.
The dam is in view for most of the hike.
A dry Eland Falls.
The top of the Amphitheatre, with the Devil's Tooth prominent.
The slow flow of the Tugela Falls, the world's second highest. A prism attempts a quick appearance.
Telefoto brings the Thendele camp in Royal Natal National Park into focus (taken from the trailhead, not the top.).
I have been accused often enough, lately by Colyn and Jonna, of my choices as to best hike, experience, region, etc. I plead guilty on all counts although given the correct forum I could provide a good defense of my feelings. Although there are objective criteria in reaching decisions of this nature, a good alternative is one borrowed from an American justice of the Supreme Court. When asked to define pornography, he answered, "I cannot define it but will recognize it when I see it."
The region surrounding the Sentinel and the Eastern Buttress is one such easily recognizable place of 'Heaven on Earth'.
We entered into conversation with these two. Suffice to say, it was neither intelligent nor successful.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
Early summer brings forth the young ones. This little guy was trying out his legs...successfully...with baboons and birds not appreciating the achievement, domestic bliss.
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