40.01 Nepal: A Brief Beginning: Mount Everest Base Camp and return.

We've written a number of pages on different aspects of the trip in Nepal from various slants. We decided to include only one of many, at random, as an opener. Although this is far from satisfactory to provide a reader/viewer an insight into this fascinating country, it's at least, a beginning. Perhaps we'll find a more appropriate format for what we consider, an unusual and amazing experience. Between the times on tough trails, the climbs and slopes, interesting locals and the many nationals, chaos on the roads of the cities and towns, and the serenity below the biggest mountains in the world, Nepal takes one back to an earlier period of civilization. It truly is a challenging and at the same time, very special environment.


We never had much breath to begin with and then the sights took away some more...it was always worth it.



We spent thirteen nights in "tea-houses" or guesthouses, enroute to Everest Base Camp including the return to Lukla, a gateway town. After viewing the land from the air, a 7-day hike to Lukla from Kathmandu does not seem as far-fetched as originally thought. The sights from above were stupendous. There's an awful lot to do in the mountains of the land-locked country of Nepal. One needs 3 attributes: Desire, energy and health ...youth would be a great help, too. As we have stated on numerous occasions: 'Seize the day, life is passing quickly'.

As we will mention in detail later, the flight was most exciting and is considered one of the world's dangerous trips in the air. Apparently, it's not that safe on the ground either. Two hours after we departed from Tenzing/Hillary Airport, a plane crashed on takeoff from that airport killing at least 3 people--another sobering moment for us, a tragedy for many others. As an aside, I tend to become a little emotional when I come across their names (Tenzing/Hillary) and memorials in their honor. In fact, the trip thus far has been filled with emotion and struggle, the latter coping with the mountain paths and ascents, weather, altitude and attitude while the former, the witnessing of a gentle people (except for their drivers) faced with unfair challenges. (More about that later).



One of the first of many times that tears flowed.




As we approach a ridge above base camp...we sometimes refer to it is as "Boot" camp. Mount Everest (Peak XV) in the background.





Summit of Kala Pattar, a superior hike opposite Mount Everest. This is our highest altitude on foot, some 18,400 feet.




A personal highlight, amongst so many of this multi-faceted trip, was reaching the summit of Kala Patthar, a mountain to the west of Everest and its even more attractive companion peaks. After arriving at the town of Gorak Shep, we rested for a short while, ate a bowl of tomato soup which had in it more garlic than an Italian chef uses in a month and headed for the trail in a rather weary state but smelling heavily from the mouth which covered the different odor of socks and boots. At that stage, we were at an altitude of a little under 17,000 feet. (The numbers are staggering). We climbed steadily but needed frequent stops to try catch breath. The day hike is a dream. It climbs steadily at times when not inclining vertically and closes with a very sharp and quite long ascent reaching 18,400 feet. In fact, it is way above base camp. It is for us one of those hikes we like to undertake at 'home' weekly. Unfortunately, the air pressure makes it that much more difficult. How gentle are our words.

Along the way, clouds permitting, the views knock one's smelly socks off. (Now that I think of it, that's a good reason to stop frequently and replace socks, rest really--next time.) Mount Everest protrudes, Lhotse and Nuptse shine, always stirring sights that seem so close-by and a host of varying other peaks dot the countryside. Once again, the views are heavenly. Of course, should you love mountains and enjoy watching the dynamics surrounding them, then life does not get better.



One of many swing bridge crossings for Jen, not her favorite moments.





After 4,000 feet gross elevation gain, Jen stands before the large town of Namche Bazaar.The way out is over the mountain at rear. Great! The large town sits at an altitude of 11,330 feet.




Each day, we believed we'd seen the most outstanding sights and yet the day following surpassed our expectations including the previous sights. It goes without saying it took enormous effort to reach these positions, particularly as we like to maintain a reasonable pace. However, it was well worth it although at times one felt worn out, weary, frustrated but always with a glimmer of optimism that at the top of the next incline we'd reach a plateau and advance at a less demanding pace.

By the time we reached the peak of Kala Patthar, the clouds regrouped and covered most of Everest. That was okay as we'd had many opportunities to see it from a number of different positions, including half-way up the same climb. Truth be told, as much as I'm in awe of the world's greatest icon, I fell in 'love' with Ama Dablam and Lhotse and many others, too. The latter have wonderful shapes, massive in size, great positions, ideal snow covering and often reflected superbly. Nevertheless, one can only gape in wonder at Peak XV, Everest's former British name. That's the kind of thing that resonates with me. If I refer to Peak XV, know that I'm only being a little silly (that's me) but am in constant awe of the leader of peaks and the climbers who have enjoyed success, particularly, the Sherpas who make the ascents and return possible for lesser mortals.

We have calculated our gross ascent over the period at over 15,000 feet. (Subject to checking).


Together at last, sort of ruins the great background.




Strangers passing in the day, through a town.



After nearly four weeks in this exciting country, it has become clear to us that, all going well, a person probably departs from Nepal a slightly different person than the one that entered it.

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey



We ate lunch in the town at the river below, climbed to the upper town, Kyangjuma for the night, and headed for the next town the following morning. Mount Everest on the right.