In the most mountainous region in Bulgaria, crossing into Greece, sits the Rhodope Mountain range. It's not the highest but it brings about a tranquility to the region, to those who live here and others who visit. Whereas the mountains of Pirin and Rila are higher, tougher and harsher (though fantastic), these are lesser icons. Many small towns and villages dot the landscape. It is not easy to reach these towns—a person does not enter a freeway and speed toward the destination. Rather, one negotiates the narrow roads, elements, local drivers, weather and then arrives and chooses a place to stay for a while. The idea is not to flit in-and-out. Far more intelligent, time allowing, to select a well-positioned town and use it as a base to explore this unique region during the day. Night-life is unknown to us—we're too tired by then. Weather permitting, there are great hikes, sights, historic markers and many other places to visit. (Continues at end...)
'Okay, Jen, enough groveling. You're forgiven.'
We came across this group of women after returning from a long hike (us not them). We could not help but overhear the discussion. The woman on the left was lamenting how she had shorted Microsoft stock the day before the company was awarded a military contract. I told her about our holdings and, at least, that brought her a little comfort. With winter fast approaching, piles of timber fill backyards, sidewalks, gardens and any open space. We notice piles of the cut down trees on some of the roads, too. The woman on the right, tells us she hates the cold but is praying for a very bitter winter. She is long timber holdings. The woman, second from the left, holds the newspaper in a dejected fashion—she learned she failed to qualify for the Bulgarian 100 meters hurdle team. The eldest of the group recently retired so we don't know much about her.
Thank you for allowing us to take the photograph.
Each hike became centered on the proximity to a coffee vending machine from which we mostly drank mountain lemon tea. At this location, we met the operator and had a wonderful chat although it took place via the translator on his phone. Two days later, we returned to the town of Yagodina for another hike and lo and behold, our friend was at the machine. It was a good feeling seeing him again and of course, the recent familiarity brought a special smile of recognition. As to the outstretched arm: I'm not telling him where he should go; rather, I'm asking him what town lies on the other side of the mountain. By the way, his dexterity (orange guy) at the vending machine has become extraordinary not to mention, as Barry Jahn said the other day, his mastery of Cyrillic.
I was feeling a little down and when this goat showed me his...well, I was rather offended. I know Jenni was trying to placate me when she said that it was a typical goat salute (note the position of the leg). I did feel a little better...but not much.
Jen developed a split-personality at Rila Lakes. Two for the marriage of one.
Three of us on Kutelo Peak in Bulgaria, all with US passports. (Contrasting Pirin Peaks with Rhodope). The guy standing with Jenni is an American diplomat stationed in Kosovo. We returned from about halfway down together with him. An interesting time. I loved his diplomatic plates on the car. Apparently, they are not for sale.
On our final visit to Trigrad (of this trip), I invited Jenni to share a meal, break bread; it was a special occasion. We do it about 5 times a week and then we took tea at the hotel, one of hiking's treats. On the second occasion, we spoke to Emil, the proprietor who was also running for political office. His aim is to keep development from the region. Looks like the plan is working well—couldn't find a chair and table for brunch.
Two days before, we walked from Yagodina to Trigrad and return, came over the mountain and through the forest and lo and behold...
It's traditional in this part of the world for teddy bears to take a picnic in a scary forest just before hibernation. I sent Jen ahead while I bravely kept watch for any bears sneaking up upon her. It was a little frightening but I kept a stiff upper-lip and all that. (Forest above village of Gela).
Phew! Safe. Jen about to exit from the forest intact and is greeted by bright sunshine, first in five days. We came across a fortress dating back to 11th century BCE—we felt quite sprightly, for a change.
'You asking me? Oh, I see. You're right. It does not point to a vending machine. Better we find another hike.'
'So what's all the studying about? We're not lost...yet.' On the way to Chairite lakes.
'You called, Madam. One hot (almost) mountain tea fresh from the machine coming up.'
"Jen? I think I forgot to use the parking brake. It could be our car rolling down the gorge...yikes!"
The communist era has left an indelible mark on the people and the infrastructure...unfortunately. Nevertheless, for us, there is an enchantment which one can find by scratching below the surface. Many old people struggle to move about but they do and it's admirable. People walk up the steep roads and sidewalks using supports and accomplish it. Customs stay with people, not necessarily passed onto successive generations. Old gentlemen walk or sit on the side of the road dressed in ties and with jackets, their faces portraying a history of hardship. It's easy to say one is projecting what one knows or perceives of history. However, we beg to differ. We greet these people and when we look into their eyes and faces, we see more than the superficiality of hardness of the skin. There's a sadness, a look of suffering, if you will.
It's been a privilege to experience life in Eastern Europe over the last year because the tumultuous years began before our birth but we witnessed from afar the subsequent developments. One could say this historic period, beginning from the Sixties' (for us), was contemporaneous. Expressed differently, we have lived through this period, observed, listened and now have seen much more up close without having had to experience the suffering personally. It makes one think of humanity in another dimension. Europe was, for many centuries, the center of the world, a cradle of modern civilization. Much of what exists today, the foundation, emanated from this continent. Perhaps then, it's not surprising how much cruelty and suffering has occurred in the countries forming this continent and then spread to other parts of the world. In closing—I find it hard to resist a tough comment—should we not have come across the many good souls (bless them all) from all over the world that we have met throughout our lives, one could easily question why one would wish to live in such a hostile and cruel world, lack of options notwithstanding.
The more we travel, the more of the outlying districts we visit and that's what we do mostly, the more we realize what a fortunate generation we are and more importantly, what our parents did in guiding us. To observe old people, both genders, pushing wheelbarrows along streets, chopping wood and sweeping sidewalks and roads is a sight to make a younger person feel embarrassed. (We exclude the poverty we have witnessed throughout our travels). A while ago we wrote about material comforts and the correlation to being soft. We see much of the practical application of the concept in reverse. While we wish nobody hardship, we do have a difficulty in understanding the comment we hear so often from people who have not experienced tough economic times: "I want my children to have more than I did." Why? One should be cautious for what one wishes.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
One last pair of photographs to reveal the shocking truth about Jenni B. Those who know her believe she is a gentle woman, a little bashful. She would never be vindictive or aggressive. Perhaps, that's a myth as breaking news reveals another side of this lovely woman. Pictures don't lie!
The faces of innocence, both of them, before Jenni gives a command to the dog. A clue might be the curling smile which lowered my defenses.
The poor, innocent bystander under attack. I ask you...
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