Some of the best experiences are off the beaten track, but hopefully on some track.
Jen asked a while ago whether I longed to return to Pamporovo, Bulgaria, (close to the Greek border), so I could have some fun on the rock wall, the via ferrata. We discovered this gem of a place 4 years earlier and I will admit I became quite besotted with the endeavor. It brought back memories of my dear Mother who probably encouraged this form of activity, or some might even think, misbehavior. When young, it was not unusual for Mom to utter ‘Jeffrey, you are driving me up the wall.’ Maybe, I’m continuing her tradition of climbing (driving up?) walls. Now I can see how challenging, helpful and stimulating I was to my mother. Unfortunately, she never complimented me or even acknowledged favorably my contribution to her climbing activities. Well, in all other aspects she was wonderful.
In answer to Jen’s comment, while there’s no denying I enjoy this nippy activity, it’s only one of 119 reasons I wished to return to Bulgaria. Originally, I tallied a round amount of 120 desires. However, my memory being what it is, I forget that last activity. Hopefully, it will resurface before we are due to depart this fascinating country…continues below.
She's no wallflower but she is pretty.
Across town, Jen reaches the first meaningful waterfall. For her next trick she will attempt to climb the wall. She did it in the picture above. She'll be wearing rubber gloves to avoid wetting her hands and scraping her nails. Watch carefully!
Meantime, back at the wall, he attempts to emulate Jenni but with far less grace.
The next waterfall is higher, more spectacular, but less powerful than we witnessed previously.
Two calm lakes and a beautiful environment on view as we reach a high edge.
This is the highpoint of the Cascades hike. In the distance to the left is the via ferrata. Below is the City of Smolyan which lies snug in the valley.
While you may have been viewing earlier pictures, he continues to move upwards, now stretching for the next rung, hoping that the builder used sufficient bonding.
To the left is the City of Smolyan, safe and maybe feeling a little smug.
Jen above another waterfall, standing on the bridge. Unfortunately, the maintenance on many of the bridges and ladders is poor. We notice many broken structures along the circular hike which is worrisome.
While the River Jordan is deep and wide, this one much less so.
Taking a closer look at the waterfall from the other side of the stream.
Jen captures me explaining to a local woman that in order to descend the steep part of the rock safely, she should take the less dangerous path where her friend stands. The crowd is gathered at the zipline. This is where my command of the Bulgarian language is so useful. Da!
Wonderful place to live: the outskirts of Smolyan.
When we discovered this activity, quite by chance, we returned a few times to pursue it. On each occasion, we were the only ones at the wall. Why this is important is that we wondered whether restrictions are in effect upon participants, namely, the need for safety ropes, helmets, a harness, gloves, licences, etc. In the area, there are a few warning signs including prohibitions but only on other activities. None apply on the ‘via ferrata’ although we did not undertake an extensive search. Using some sense, we ensured that each rung was firmly cemented as we climbed. Fortunately, it all worked out well.
Today, we arrived and noticed two young men talking with a few people close to the parking lot. They appeared to be official. Turns out they operate the zip-line that is a mile further into this interesting rocky region. I suspected this could be trouble. We went ahead and noticed that the trail was far busier than we had experienced in the last couple of weeks. In fact, the road was too and the parking lot where we live, normally quite empty, had undergone a change. Many cars had arrived overnight. We stopped a trio of women, asked our usual question about ‘English’, and when given the affirmative found out it was ‘Independence Day’. It all made sense.
I thought I’d climb the wall before anyone else arrived, being independence day, although there were at least a dozen people gazing at it. I got down to the edge and lo and behold I heard and saw the two youngsters. They spoke English and basically told me it was a bad idea to attempt the climb without an instructor and equipment. We had a chat from a distance and I mentioned that this would be my fourth occasion, hinting that I had some experience. I did not think to mention that I’m a bit of an 'ironman', having two replaced metal hips in my body. (By the way, on that day was the one year anniversary of the second surgery.) Of course, he retorted that it only took one occasion to end a life—unfortunately, he’s correct. Jen was not comfortable, to put it gently, and I decided although there was no formal prohibition against undertaking the scaling, maybe it did not make sense to push it. Some ironman.
We then headed up to another peak, viewed the city of Smolyan below and in the distance, including the extensive, all-green forests which were showing the odd bit of autumn coloring. It was breathtaking, the combination of the position and the views. It also included a view of the Canyon of Waterfalls areas which we had hiked 3 days earlier. Unfortunately, Jen was feeling a strong flow of adrenaline through her body after preparing herself for the climb. On the other hand, I developed a rush of frustration. It irritated me to feel that something I was planning to undertake for a while by then, was no longer available, although not officially. I realized the fellows had my safety in mind, but it was a general warning as I would not undertake something of that nature should I not have an appropriate sense of comfort. That I had undertaken the climb on 3 previous occasions gave me confidence. Nevertheless, I was a little nervous as I expected.
I looked at Jen after we made our way down from the hill. I think she must have seen something in my face that prompted her to ask whether I wanted to go ahead and climb. I had no doubts. I decided to go up and down without spending more than a minimum amount of time on the rock face. Fortunately, although there were many people in the area viewing the wall from distance, no one else attempted the climb. After completing the wall scale, my mood changed completely—I felt whole again. We then headed to the zip line, saw our ‘buddies’, hiked down from that position and experienced further wonderful sights. It’s exciting finding these gems.
As we headed back to the car park, we approached the via ferrata section again and Jen again inquired whether I would like another turn at the wall. I didn’t hesitate and went up the other set of irons. I’m most grateful to Jenni for her understanding as I know that watching me takes something out of her. Fortunately, she keeps busy by utilizing the camera. I think what must really be off-putting is that I usually hand her my wallet before departing. It does create an eerie feeling for both of us but it’s practical. In the end, following my discussion with the zip guys, I took back my wallet and ended up keeping it for both climbs—so much for that precaution. Must have been carrying quite a lot of cash.
Jenni and Jeffrey
Per the text, Jen sort of encouraged me to try the other set of rungs. I sort of agreed...in a flash. The rungs do take an awkward twist part-way up.
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