It is difficult to know where to start after completing the 35 kilometres overnight hike. We added a few extra as much time was spent searching for the markers—yellow painted feet—as well as losing the track completely on the first day. One soon realizes that by missing a marker, one’s survival is called into question. There’s a lot of wilderness out there. Here is our only gripe. Why are there markers close to each other in the obvious positions and at junctions, in particular, nothing?
We have hiked about 45 kilometres over the last three days without seeing another soul. We don’t blame them for not maintaining the trails just for us. Trails, as we mentioned the other day, is flattering. In most places, the path is where the grass, bushes or other vegetation has been trampled slightly sometime in the past few months. Nevertheless, we loved it. The hike is not difficult but it is strenuous.
A good start is always the logistics. A method of undertaking the backpacking expedition is: drive car to the Nature Park, which is at the hike finish point. Upon arrival, register at reception. Park in garage, which is a secure facility—very nice. Find taxi and ride 35 kilometres back to commencement, minus car. Cruel taxi driver abandons hikers in the middle of nowhere. Hikers struggle back to Nature Reserve carrying a combined 60 pounds on backs to claim car and return to original starting point, the lodge. That’s about it. Superficial result: Said hikers are dirty, sweaty, hungry, muscles ache…and feel on top of the world. Go figure!
The brochure of the Parks Board states the taxi ride is 30 rand each. The reception at the Parks Board told us the tariff is 40 rand. “Leave this to me,” we mentioned to our editor. We were ready to deal with the taxi driver as we called upon our years of business experience and skills to negotiate a fair deal. Let these good people of Africa watch and learn how the process works.
“So what did you end up settling for,” Jenni asked as we returned to report back. “Only 50 rand each.” It appears that there are many gaps in the so-called skills of the 'expert negotiator'. (This is a true story). There is no truth in the rumor that we will be running a course in ‘negotiating’ on our return.
It was clear that our driver had not been educated at a liberal arts college in the West. The clue was when he instructed us to pay ‘the short guy’. The short guy stood less than 4 feet tall. The drive in the African taxi was a first for us, a very pleasant experience including the benefit of a ‘Dolly Parton’ CD filling the vehicle with country classics. Back to the admissions policy. When we ‘registered’, the receptionists, three delightful young local women, made a copy of our reservation and that was it. As there is no one at the commencement point, no attendants at the two camps, no rangers on the trails, we think there might just be a flaw in the system. Then again, no one seems to use the trail. To be fair, we did come across two aggressive baboons, one monkey, a number of lizards and a frightening bull as we crossed private property.
There is no particular outstanding feature of the scenery. However, as a whole, it is a beautiful composite of nature’s wonders, if you will. One is surrounded constantly by mountains, attractive rock formations, streams, waterfalls and varying African grasses, trees, bushes and flowers. At times, we walked through sugarcane-like fields that were feet above our heads. Always on the lookout for snakes, the brush presented quite a challenge…to be continued, time to rest the other leg.
Tears flowed naturally as I put on tefillin at sunrise.
An unforgettable experience, a personal high
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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