of this active volcano. If you recall, the night was spent sleeping in the car acclimating, a synonym
for not sleeping. We anticipated the day might be somewhat anticlimactic after a most interesting evening.
A few reasons still lingered on whether to consider canceling the hike: The wind was strong, the
temperature was at freezing, oxygen was in short supply and the early going was tough. The latter point,
of course, was foolish but it happens. By the way, the station monitors global warming. We would like to
see them think locally, rather bring more warmth to the freezing volcano.
The terrain is probably the most difficult part of the hike or more accurately, the underfoot.
The worst parts are the loose, sharp lava rocks. There are times when a person wants to sit down and
whimper. In other parts, one is content to remain standing and cry. Particularly on the return journey,
with the legs dragging, the ‘thin’ air not helping, one feels the pain. On the way up, one has the choice
of giving in and turning back. However, going down, that option no longer exists. Other parts of the trail
consist of larger solid rocks, although requiring full concentration, offer enjoyment in negotiating the
way across them.
From halfway up, snow and ice cover part of the mountain providing much needed beauty in contrast
with the black lava. Walking on ice and crossing the snowfields is not without risk either. There is no
trail per se but for the cairns (rock piles) that mark the ideal direction. Spaced at varying intervals,
one identifies the following one and proceeds in that fashion. It is set out well. The idea is not to
anticipate but rather focus on the marker before proceeding, especially in the tricky spots. The snow
is a nice touch in Hawaii—we don’t think we’ve seen many posters advertising this aspect.
The length of the trail, our approach anyway, is fourteen-miles. This is a particular long way
exacerbated by the difficult surface. As the mountain is so large, the peak is only visible when close
to it. The feeling one develops is that every time a peak appears, the anticipation and relief build
only to be frustrated when it proves false. On the trail, we came across four Germans and a very fit
Quebec citizen. Three of the German men quit well before completion while the woman in their group
looked like she would make it. Serge, the ‘non-Canadian’ from Quebec, snapped the photograph at the peak.
Certification of documents is a big deal in Hawaii these days.
Unfortunately, well into the climb, the altitude affected Jenni rather badly. In her usual generous manner,
she encouraged her ‘reluctant’ husband to continue, while she returned to a lower altitude to recover.
We have seen many volcanoes, calderas and craters during this trip. However, a big difference is
that Mauna Loa Caldera sits at close to 14,000 feet above sea level as opposed to some of the others, at
a ‘mere’ 4,000. Of course, the real issue is that one has to struggle to reach it, making the reward that
much more satisfying. The big treat with this ‘monster’ is witnessing snow scattered in the crater and on
its walls, a sight of rugged beauty. At times, the caldera floor looks like a dirty-colored sea. While
hiking on this massive mountain, it has given us yet another insight into the destructive power of nature
and the effects years later. We are only witnesses to the short-term results of nature’s cycles. In the
future, after we have all moved on, we believe this will be completely different from its current form.
In our short years, we miss the bigger picture that is dynamic and way beyond our comprehension.
Before ending, in case it’s not apparent, standing on a mountain looking down into thick clouds
ranks as one of the great feelings we enjoy. No matter how often we experience it, it is never sufficient.
Maude Alge mentioned that it reminded her of views from an aircraft. We concur. Another aspect we
often observe, when looking down and towards the side, is rain or mist below while it’s completely clear on
our level.
We lost a few things on the trail today. A glove, two hankies, torn pants, the company of our
beloved editor and a desire to repeat the hike. However, after a day’s rest, the desire to continue
will burn just as strong as it did prior to this incredible experience. At time of writing, less than
a day later and somewhat rested, only positive feelings remain about this awesome volcano.........we’ll
miss those hankies.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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