Following a cold and rainy morning, we dressed accordingly in winter outfits. Soon after commencing our trek, the sun blasted through the clouds forcing us to apply sunscreen and remove a layer of clothing. Without exaggerating, within a minute of our adjusting for summer conditions, the sun disappeared, raindrops appeared and the wind arose. We decided to ignore the temperamental weather completely. Fortunately, the adventure has been superb; we have adapted well. We would suggest to anyone contemplating a wedding reception in a garden on this island, to think twice about it.
On Sunday, we set out in the…rain for a hike at the end of the road, that is, the end of Highway 130. The premature end came from lava flowing across the highway on its way to the ocean. We stopped in the town of Kalapana, destroyed in the 1990 eruption. A few houses remain in this desolate area. Having parked the car, we observed the gases spewing from a nearby volcano and headed across about a mile or more of thick volcanic rock. Our destination was the ocean and a walk along the cliffs. The views were spectacular. The contrasts of the black lava against the greenery and an ocean in different shades of blue, afforded the eyes much pleasure. We believe the photographs will provide a far better picture than our words describe.
We are trying to be law-abiding citizens in Hawaii but fear we are experiencing difficulties. Two weeks ago, we scaled fences to hike in a closed state area. Some fifty years ago, we would climb fences to pinch fruit. These days, we are better behaved and so we leave the fruit…sometimes. Realizing our shortcomings, we applied for backcountry permits this week. In both cases, after waiting a while, the ranger told us permits were not required. Today, after returning from a coastal walk over the lava rock, an official mentioned that we were trespassing on private property.
We looked around and all we could see was miles and miles of volcanic rock. “That,” said the guy with the badge,” is land owned by folks whose property was destroyed in the 1990’s volcano eruption.” We can’t seem to get it right these days. Jenni inquired about walking the four-miles across the lava to view the active Pu’u’O’o Volcano. “Not permitted,” he answered. “In fact, last week,” he continued, “we had to send a helicopter to fetch a guy who had wandered over to the crater.”
What a great idea. We go off hiking and when we get tired, just send for a helicopter. We like it. Our editor, being tactful, suggested we leave while our hands were still without ‘cuffs. He also mentioned that we would be lucky to find our car undamaged by the locals. “Last week,” he said, “a car’s windows were broken and two tyres slashed.” All we could think: 'What a bad week they suffered in this rough neighborhood'.
We thought of contrasts between Hawaii and San Diego, both on the Pacific Ocean. One could buy ocean front property in this eastern region and, after an eruption or heavy lava flow, find the latest view to be of the new neighbor’s backyard. An eruption in San Diego would clear property along the ocean completely. In Hilo, should they receive less than seventy inches a year in rain, a drought is declared. In San Diego, that amount of rain would wash away the city. To put things in perspective, lava is currently flowing in this region. Perhaps with all this uncertainty, South Dakota is still a good option for us.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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