15.01 In and about Cusco: Many Cathedrals and an abundance of Police Officers-What gives?

As we tried to flag down a taxi, our eyes focused elsewhere.


A climb onto the roof of our apartment gave us this view.


Easy on the eye as dusk approaches Cusco.

Arrangements changed and we headed to Central Cusco for a late orientation session Thursday rather
than Saturday evening. Orientation is a euphemism from our perspective meaning: They point us in the
right direction and off we go. We had a good meeting until they pulled a fast one. Why did the thought
‘Peruvians’ fill our minds? The short story is that our finish date was moved from Thursday to Friday night.
For obvious reasons, we have to finish the trek before then but the company decided it can only allow a start
day of Monday rather than the already booked, Sunday. The solution: We will do the 5-day trek over 4 days with
transport provided through a ‘dull’ town rather than walk it, saving two hours. What a deal! They
waited until the last possible moment to tell us of something arranged months previously.


Share the road.


Late sun highlights the back mountains, a corner of 'La Jolla' at fore.

We walked about Cusco, some six or so miles from our apartment. Although one does not feel threatened,
the vendors of art, massages and jewelry accost one at every turn. After a while, it’s a little irritating,
especially when they refuse to accept a negative answer. Nevertheless, some of the art is beautiful but
frankly, we don’t have a spare wall on which to hang it. Come to think of it, we don’t even have a wall.
We suppose the shedding of a tear at this juncture might not be inappropriate.

We were amazed at the number of police officers in the area, particularly in the square. Some people might
feel safe with a heavy presence while others consider the reason daunting. All are armed including private
security personnel guarding the banks. We felt at home for a while, a little like downtown Johannesburg.
Hopefully, the ‘Shining Path’ is not resurrecting itself. Can you hear the mountains calling, Jen?


Jenni is in the blue top.

While sitting (praying) in taxis and walking about the town, we saw some of the bravest people ever.
We exaggerate not. After observing and being inside vehicles ‘ducking, diving and squeezing’ through gaps
narrower than car widths, our hats are off to the police officers who stand in the middle of the road watching.
Why they behave in this suicidal manner is beyond us—police and drivers. Many dogs wonder about on their own
crossing busy streets while drivers honk (hoot) incessantly. We can categorically declare without fear of
contradiction, after only two days in the city, the drivers in Tel Aviv, Rome and Johannesburg are timid and
gentle compared with the locals. We would have to be drunk to consider hiring a car in this place—an advantage
of being teetotalers.


The natural world and the 'not so natural', face off.

In the United States the concept of ‘whistle blowers’ is well known. To some, it is a controversial idea but
that’s not for this blog. In Cusco, throughout the night at odd intervals, a fellow walks in the street blowing
his whistle. Another, blows while riding a motorized bicycle. The latter appears to be in uniform. It could
be a form of security but we have no idea what it means—perhaps a modern version of the Town-Crier? Unfortunately,
these actions prompt reactions from the dogs and even the roosters. The nights become quite 'musical'. The language
and cultural barriers make it complicated for us to solve this mystery and many others, too. Perhaps on the trek,
we’ll meet people who can provide us more information. All-in-all, it’s fascinating walking amongst people
who inhabit a world so different from 'ours'.

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey


Jenni stands in the central square, Plaza de Armas


Captivated by this evening backdrop.