A former religious icon of the Incas.
Salkantay pass at 15,279 feet, the highest point we have reached, on foot.
The interplay of clouds and mountains, real beauty.
We were a little nervous about the second day’s hike for two reasons. Firstly, our fitness was below
normal strength and secondly, we would be reaching an altitude of over 15,000 feet above sea level.
The climb, cumulative gain, was well over 3,000 feet in a relatively short distance. It was daunting
under those conditions, health and air pressure issues. Our editor, feeling the strain, and thinking
of chasing after a few fellow hikers under the age of 30, did not sleep too well that night. Nevertheless,
she handled the climb with aplomb followed by a descent of 6,200 feet to the next camp, the village of
Chaullay, in a 13-14 mile hike.
There are times when feeling humbled is uplifting—another such occasion.
It’s fascinating to come across villages nestled in the mountains. Some comprise a few huts while others
are a little bigger. Observing children playing in the fields or alongside the porch provokes some thinking.
By the way, they are respectful, smiling and well dressed. Those of school going age wear uniforms. Many have
to walk to school, in places, two hours each way. It sure puts things in perspective. Some might look at the
situation and think how fortunate we are to enjoy luxury at every turn. Yet, that might not be true. The smiles
on their faces often reflect, in our opinion, true happiness. May we be so bold to question why many people
who are comfortable materialistically speaking, are quite miserable otherwise? Perhaps, the mountain
people illustrate the alternatives to modern living. Who knows? But we do love their mountains…and our
hot shower.
Jenni poses while taking a well-earned break. We crossed the stream below a little earlier.
After peaking at the pass, it was downhill all the way in rain and mud.
Combine the wonder of early morning sun with mountain and snow.
In a small village, we came across four children playing amongst the dogs, horses and chickens. In fact,
Jenni stood by as a dog decided to take on a mule. The reins of the mule were loose on the ground and
so the dog probably thought of emulating a human. It grabbed the leather in its mouth and pulled the mule
along. The mule, probably having a rough day, would have no part of it. While this was happening, the camp
set-up was in progress, the lamas and alpacas gazed at the goings-on in boredom and the cows continued to
graze—they never do stop. The village canteen had limited candy but cookies were on the shelves fortunately,
so we could at least provide the kids with something sweet. Three were younger than our granddaughter, Ellie.
The thought that crosses the mind is that we live on the same planet, yet, such different worlds.
A matter of taste: Enthralled by this 'portrait'.
Still fresh and naïve with Salkantay 'smiling' behind.
Touchdown. Jenni seeks a good timeshare property. How about red?
“Shawer for 10 soles”. When we saw the offer, we grabbed it and entered into an arrangement with the
‘proprietor’ to use the facilities. It was interesting. Where have you heard that expression before?
There we were, in a tiny outdoor brick structure, boxed between a commode and dirty-floor shower,
open-air vents for windows, a plank on which to place our clothing and water pressure that would be
appreciated only in a desert. The water, which was only hot without a cold water inflow, trickled from
the showerhead with such low flow that it only managed to spread the dirt more evenly on our bodies.
We suppose we were a bit optimistic when we asked whether soap and a towel were available. Nevertheless,
it was well worth it, mostly because we had the opportunity to wash our editor’s back.
Confronted by Mount Salkantay as we move upwards towards the pass.
We were elated when we reached Salkantay Pass at 15,279 feet—something that lifted the spirits as well as
the bodies. Thereafter, it began to snow and we headed down the mountain, dropping 6,200 feet, in rain and
mud. The wet weather did not let off until we reached camp. Although the rain did not hamper us, being wet
and muddy on arrival at camp was not a comfortable feeling. The shower facility mentioned earlier was a break
for us.
At dinner, we again covered a wide variety of topics in various languages. We spoke to the Dutch couple
(Frederique and Robert-Jan) in Afrikaans as often as we could. They understood us completely although we
struggled to understand their language. Incidentally, they happened to speak English fluently. Nevertheless,
we were on a roll and they indulged us. A few days later, we got so carried away that we spoke Afrikaans to
a Frenchman, not realizing it. Fortunately, our editor was on hand to bring us under control.
"You are consistent," Jenni mentioned. We smiled in appreciation of the compliment. "You tend to talk nonsense
in both languages."
'Ouch.'
Time to clean sunglasses. Actually, nearly wiped out after reaching first hurdle from stream below.
Jen shows I'm twice the man on the left.
We slept well and prepared for the third day.
To be continued…
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
As mentioned, Machu Picchu conclusions to each blog:
Unbeknown to the authorities, a new ruin was discovered at Machu Picchu recently. It appears that
the mystery is likely to create some controversy. Do the Peruvians treat it as an additional ruin
or have it removed? It is unlikely a decision will be forthcoming anytime soon. You decide:
Well, we told you it was a ruin. Perhaps, our finest hour. After a 1,400 feet climb of steps in darkness and rain,
still facing 2,300 feet of climbing, to be followed by 3,400 feet return down. Are we having fun yet?
An early morning glimpse of the Inca ruins.
Looking down from somewhere on 'The Old Mountain'. Ruins below, Huana Picchu across the way.'
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