17.01 Boesmanskloof hike, Greyton to McGregor

Heading up and home from the depths of the canyon.



Color on the trail as we look towards the destination.


Hats off to our editor who showed 'vasbyt' (courage) this week when she completed two hikes, a steep
climb and a strenuous, long one. Africans are tough and clearly she is one of them. What made it remarkable is that
she has been sick on-and-off for the last ten days. Perhaps the winters are not cold enough. Who knows? We don't
think we should make such comment to a Canadian, eh?


The falls provide a wonderful resting place en route as Jenni makes the crossing.



The Protea Bowl.


Before mentioning today's hike, which was nothing short of spectacular, we thought we'd write
something about the places we are visiting. The more small towns we see, wherever we are in the world,
the more we like them. After living in large cities for most of our lives, we have either reached a stage
in which the enthusiasm has waned or our tastes have changed. The lack of noise, congestion and density makes
for wonderful quality living. The gorgeous scenery can be viewed from anywhere and the people are always
friendlier than city slickers. Of course, we don't have the ballet out here in McGregor and Swellendam but
we get by. Jenni is quite nimble on her toes and does a mean pirouette—a nice compensation.



The trail is always on the edge, providing wonderful views as it leads us down and up again.



At the half-way stage, we see the pass up ahead.


We have been unable to avoid local politics even though we detest the worldwide system of dishonesty,
corruption and personal self-advancement which it encompasses. Nevertheless, we cannot help but feel sorry
for Jake 'Zoomlens', the local president. With American security agencies snooping in our email boxes, we
cannot be sure we are safe from the South African equivalents. Therefore, names have been changed. Also, as
we have been having camera difficulties, we thought the code-name dovetails nicely.

His real problem seems to be overspending on home improvements. Apparently, the new security system at
his house costs R230 million. While this might seem a trifle high, does the electorate really understand
the issue? One argument is that it also includes a swimming pool. We’re sure Jake will have no problem in
explaining to his captive audience that it might look like a pool when in fact it’s a moat. People can be
quite dumb—look whom they voted for in the first place. As an aside, we saw one poster the other day about
'change'. We know something about ‘change’ having experienced it in America these last years. To us, change
is more akin to one set of politicians feeding at the trough and another set imploring the electorate to vote
them in so they can have their turn, for a change.



Vivid colors in front, the less colorful town of Greyton behind.



Some rock scrambling on well positioned stones although somewhat slippery.




Reflections in the tannin contained water below falls.


Back to Jake. Why all the security? The man has four wives and numerous girlfriends. Can you see the issues?
Imagine the tension and danger lurking in that house? Our only complaint, if we even have one, is that Jake may
think it’s correct to service his womenfolk and screw the country. He might be looking at it the wrong way around.
Perhaps he should concentrate on servicing the country…



Reminded us of Salkantay in Peru.



Editor sends porter down to get a cup of water for her ladyship.


We did say we should mention today's glorious hike between the towns of McGregor and Greyton. It’s a good
physical test as one treks along the mountain edges moving up and down constantly. There are frequent stream
crossings which takes one to the canyon floor only to rise again creating a large net elevation gain. We walked
fourteen miles (22K) with spectacular views on display every step of the way. Linking the towns by car takes
about ninety minutes because one has to travel around the mountains. By foot, it is a mere four hours, if one
steps on the gas.

Finally, the weather was awful in the early morning. It was extremely misty, intermittent rain was followed by
heavy rain—it looked bleak and miserable. Once we began, our spirits soared as we hit this remarkable trail and
location and were rewarded with improving weather for the rest of the day.

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey



The traditional ritual with waterfall to the lower left. (Cut him some slack, if you would.)