18.10 Akureyri: Mount Sulur, a climb of 3,700 feet in a beautiful environment, a true stunner.

A view of the first false peak after ascending towards the base. The actual peak is at rear although the
route takes one over the prominent peak in the picture.




A pond of water fed by streams, attracts plant life...and us.



Arguably, it was one of our two or three best hikes and experiences in this country. There we go again,
arguing. The town of Akureyri is in the north of the country, making it closer to the North Pole than Reykjavik.
While we like both cities, the northern town is a delight. It is much smaller than the capital but the second
largest, population wise. It is surrounded by mountains, all snowcapped. It lies on the water, an expanse of
the most desirable blue liquid we have seen. The only people we met on the trail were locals. They are friendly,
speak such good English that one forgets it’s not their mother tongue or father’s for that matter. Talking of
fathers, it appears they don’t use surnames as other westerners do. They follow a system not exactly but in
principle, similar to the Hebrew tradition. Their surnames are a combination of the father’s first name. Fred
Johnson would probably be Fred son of John.




At higher altitudes, the snow is thick and wide. Jenni is above the steep climb negotiated seconds before.




Although it's considered rude, one cannot help staring at such awesome sights.




Jenni thinks it's a haunting scene; one had to stand in her shoes, we suppose.



Back to the hike. We found the trailhead exactly where it was supposed to be—this always makes for a
nice start. Immediately, we wrapped ourselves in jackets and took up the challenge. Wherever one stands in
the town, the peak is visible. Knowing the intention is to get to the top is a little intimidating, especially
on a day when the self-confidence wanes a little. Only when we got to just before the peak did we learn the
visible part was a false peak—high but not the whole way. At one stage, we were standing in a snowfield
and looked up to see that it rose at an acute angle towards high ground. We were inspired. Get up to that point
and we’d be home. When we reached the end of the snow climb, we realized that nature was playing games with us.
We still had another forty-five minutes to go. The rewards of climbing this mountain far outweighed any struggle.
There are no trees so one is always in the open with views of magnificent scenery including the surrounding
snowcapped peaks, snow fields, the fjord of brilliant blues, flowing streams which we crossed frequently, colorful
plants and the cool, crisp air. Switzerland included, we don’t think we have seen a more beautiful place.
Even the town, viewed from the peak, was a joy.




A view of another side, opposite to the water.




Jenni contemplating the next leg after coming across a few false peaks.




Okay, so you made it. Big deal. We thought so. A good path for the last few hundred feet, a nice change.



The only hikers we met were a few locals. We have said it before. The Icelanders are a hardy bunch. The environment
must have a strengthening effect on the citizens of the country and it shows. The sun is one of the scarce
resources in the country. We could not help notice the clothing worn by the locals. As long as the sun is shining,
no matter how low the temperature, they tend to dress for a regular summer. Jenni sneaked a photograph of one of
us engaged in discussion with local hikers and it shows in the outfits. We looked like we were at the North Pole (nearly)
while they were dressed for Southern California.




Jenni summits at a particularly special place, 3,700 feet higher than the trailhead.




The long and winding road...the earlier stages of the hike.




A spot that has varied landscapes, a delight.


After returning to Reykjavik, we stayed with Sigga, in her small home. We occupied her bedroom while
she slept in her tiny annex. She earns money by renting accommodation on that basis. It seems unusual
but it worked out well including dealing with her two cats who have free run of the home. We left the
bathroom door ajar as the cats use the window in that room for access. We had spent 13 days traveling
around the island and that many consecutive nights in our tent before arriving at our last port of call.
Sleeping in a good bed with a soft mattress, fluffy pillows and thick duvets proved to be anti-climatic.
We believe we slept better on the ground, funnily enough. In fact, we had backache after sleeping in a bed.



Peering above the snow, Eyjafjordur and city in the distance.




If you're going to turn around, this would be a good position, Jen.


Finally, on our second last night in camp, we got a puncture (a flat). Yes, it was a pity but we dealt with
it okay. Our air mattress developed a leak and could not be repaired. Fortunately, we were stationary at the time.
Who knows what could have happened had we been sleep-walking. We slept a little closer to the ground for the remaining
two nights.



Wrapped and strapped on the peak in a cold environment although the sun shone on the day.


Cheers,


Jenni and Jeffrey




Contemplation after a great climb. The hike commenced on the outskirts of the city.