In case we forget, which is not possible, a visit to the Drakensberg (Mountains) is a reminder of one
of the world’s premier hiking areas (our opinion, of course). We are often asked to name the best region
we’ve hiked. We no longer even try to provide an answer because we live in a beautiful world and it’s almost
foolish to formulate which is best—besides, we've only seen a mere fraction that's on offer—only hundredths
of a percent. The criteria for judgment are exhaustive. The time of visit to a place whether it be sunrise
or sunset, snow-capped mountains and volcanoes, autumn or spring colors, one’s mood, fitness, and state
of mind all go into the formula. Having refuted any reason to give an opinion, we will contradict ourselves
and state we are hard-pressed to argue against the Drakensberg as the premier locale. Perhaps our favorite
day-hike is the walk from the Sentinel car park via the chain ladders to the Tugela Falls close to the peak
of Mont-aux-Sources and onto the famous Amphitheatre.
(The narrative continues after the pictures...)
Oh! There is a mountain after all—The Sentinel, always proud and watching.
Jen hits a milestone...with her arms, as we reach the half-way mark.
Approaching the Amphitheatre on Mont-aux-Sources, while watching the clouds churn
as we walk along the summit.
All time favorite picture of my 'bride'...Jenni reaching the top of chain ladder in fog.
At the Tugela Falls, the left side is 3,000 feet drop filled with fog/mist/clouds. We approached
from the right.
A typical Drakensberg scene...not the fellow in the red top, though...he's odd.
Fascinating to follow the path of the fog/mist.
Jen stands at the top of the Tugela Falls, the world's second highest at over a half mile high.
Mountain top as we meet riders coming from Lesotho. "How much do you think he'll take for the blanket?"
Lesotho national leading a group of South Africans on horseback.
Cutting across the Tugela as the flow is weak but stronger than on our last visit.
The colors and tints from the mist were enchanting throughout the day.
'Sunshine' arrives at the top of the ladder. We were hoping for the real thing.
A favorite scene that did not last long.
Jen coming out...going into the mist. What a day!
Standing above and on the other side of the Tugela Falls top.
Another scene from the Tugela Falls on a misty day.
The Drakensberg is exciting, dangerous, moody, colorful, most beautiful, easily accessible from many
South African cities and filled with hiking opportunities in abundance. Living, albeit briefly, in towns
and small settlements at the base of this long stretching mountain range, adds to the enjoyment. In places,
it has an old colonial flavor, sometimes seeming to stretch back a century or so. Of course, this is imaginative
as we are not that old—getting there, though. Although we have only hiked a few dozen areas, the Sentinel Hike
is special. It’s about 14 kilometers long, the path is rough with a few risky sections, the directions a little
hazy, the climb less than strenuous but includes the famous chain ladders, continuous views into the valleys
and distant mountains, surrounding peaks, the incredible Sentinel Mountain as well as close views and walks
along the famous Amphitheatre. Everything necessary to fulfill a hiking dream is contained along the path and
as far as the eye can see. Perhaps the aspect adding enormously to the spectacle is the movement of clouds, fog
and mist over the region. It is as if the display has been choreographed with clouds covering and revealing
mountains, parts thereof as well as filling the valleys and crevices on a whim.
For our third hike to the Falls, we arrived at the lodge at the end of the road, Witsieshoek. The city from
which it derives its name was difficult to pronounce so the authorities changed it (speculation). The new name
of the city: Phutchaditjhaba. This makes it much easier to pronounce which, of course, is a good idea.
Fortunately, the lodge retained the original name wishing to be spoilsports.
Last year the authorities decided to upgrade the road from the lodge to the trailhead, Sentinel car park.
The road was in shocking condition. What a great idea although we wondered whether there were more worthy
causes. After two weeks at work, the graders were performing a sterling job. We were here at the time
and witnessed a transformation of part of the route. Thus, we had high expectations to drive to the trailhead
under our own steam and at our own times. It was not to be. Someone apparently forgot that heavy rains are
inclined to wash away gravel roads. Unfortunately, the budget did not allow for doing the same job twice which
was quite nasty of the director. We subsequently learned from Sampson, an employee we know at the lodge, that:
‘To be one of the good guys in the ANC (ruling party) you have to be corrupt’. From what we have gathered in
our travels to the country, there are an awful lot of good guys around. (More from Sampson next blog.)
Back to a fantastic day. For the first time, we shared a shuttle including three Dutchwomen and an Indian male.
Previously, we had been on our own. The four hikers followed their leader, the same Sampson while I followed
the editor. We set off together but lost the party along the way only to see them again when we had reached
the base above the chain ladders. Later we learned when confronted with the chains, which one scales to reach
the summit below Mont-aux Sources, they were overcome with fear. It happens. When one thinks too much about
the danger involved it becomes intimidating—better to arrive, climb immediately and think of fear afterwards.
To state that the views, the feelings, being immersed in mist, fog and clouds are a dream is to understate
what a spectacular place and experience it is. However, we shall limit further explanation so that the pictures
might complete the task.
The hike was different from previous visits as we spent much time in fog which in of itself created additional
facets to the day. Perhaps a bit more sun would have been better, particularly at the Tugela Falls. It’s considered
the second highest in the world. To provide some perspective, the water falls over half mile before it reaches
its destination. A person standing at the top cannot see the bottom, even when clouds or mist are absent.
We thought how unfortunate so few are able to see this spectacle. Obviously, the only way to stand at the
top is to take a walk unless of course, one hires a helicopter. It is a privilege albeit a tough one.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
No comments:
Post a Comment