on air for the two days it entailed. The realist in me, sometimes known as the negative side, hinted that the
‘coming down to earth’ would be a little tough. Nevertheless, we’ll take these highs every day of the week with
the anti-climaxes that are sure to follow to keep us grounded. Truth be told, Hike-about has provided periods
that are without doubt, highlights of our lives. In fact, the last time we felt so good was quite some time
ago—when our eldest child, now a man, slept uninterrupted through the night. We remember it clearly because
it was soon after his 12th birthday (sorry, Gav!). To provide balance to life, no matter how beautiful it is,
it’s not a bed of roses. After all, even beautiful roses stand each day in manure.
(Continued after pictures...)
At the end of journey, Jenni approaches Immigration and Customs. Declares to the officer: "I'm tired."
Nearly spends the night in jail resting.
Sun hits the clouds at dawn.
Big sky, big sunset, mesmerized little people.
We think that's stunning and will look even better when we are above it.
We would have to exclaim, "Wow!": The sunrise presents exciting surprises along the winding road/path.
A few good Apostles out of twelve. This range is in view the whole way up. That afternoon, we
went walking along the edge and were rewarded with images in the softer light.
Enthralled by the scene, frozen from the weather and feeling as if in 'Heaven'. The amazing
thing is that this is available in one form or another to all of us, at little cost.
Inviting fellow walker for lunch upon reaching the top. See story for more detail.
He was the only other person on foot that day, building a comradeship.
'Obviously that's not the bus stop, Jen.' Sometimes you have to wonder about the editor. A late
afternoon walk to cool down...no make that to warm up.
Fire in the heavens while we observe sunset at the pass, some 10,000 feet altitude.
Approaching the Sani Lodge after walking along the edge of the Apostles. The patio is in front;
the highest pub in Africa through the doors. The atmosphere is superb and we believe this is enhanced
tremendously by the hike.
'Hey You! Would you throw the rope, please.' (At least she asked nicely.)
'Hey fellas, anyone want to carry a bag down? No...? Okay. Sorry I asked.' (Passport control Lesotho.)
Returning from exploring walk as sun prepares for evening spectacle in front of bungalow.
'The long and winding road' or is it, "My bags are packed, I'm ready to go"? Final verdict:
It's 'bloody' steep towards the climax.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
On this trip, like others, we have met a number of people. Most have been very interesting, just for
openers. George Viljoen and Carl Momberg in Howick were uplifting. George is engaged in many activities,
one is running a B&B on the side. Carl operates the website: CapeInfo. Com. Gill and Peter, both
educationists added to the social aspects. Peter is the headmaster of Hilton College, one of the elites.
The climax though was returning to Himeville and staying at the Yellowwood Cottages, owned and operated
by Elsa and Derryl. We stayed with them last year and were treated very well. This time, they outdid
themselves and made us feel like royalty. What a wonderful duo.
Many people we meet make us feel blessed. We’d like to think we make a contribution too but who knows.
Anyway, we headed up the 3,000 feet pass toward Lesotho after passing through the South African passport
checkpoint. This is one of those hikes that one needs a visa and passport. In our case, we were exempt
from visas. About a third-way up the 8 kilometers walk, we passed an elderly man wearing a traditional
Lesotho blanket, carrying a pile of firewood. The area on top of the pass is at almost 10,000 feet and
understandably, without trees. Later we found out he walks this route often, in order to sell his wares
for a dollar a bunch. We invited him to take lunch with us upon reaching the top. Unfortunately, he was
about an hour-and-half slower so instead, we gave him some old-fashioned stuff to be used at his
own convenience. To witness him struggling up the pass broke our hearts. Of course, what we gave him is
nothing but a ‘band aid’ but what else does one do.
What really saddened us, although the three of us were the only walkers, was the fact that taxis and cars
travel the route and no one offered him a ride. We found this callous. At the ‘Highest Pub in Africa’,
the top of the pass, we approached the waiters and asked why no one helped the old man. Then we heard
a different story. Firstly, he never accepts rides. But secondly, he is also a poacher as well as carrying
wood up the pass is illegal. One is not always aware of the whole picture and this was one of those
instances. Nevertheless, as a fellow hiker (struggler) to another, we’d do the same thing over again should
it reoccur. In the end, the man also did not appear to be well mentally. We hope we always err making those
types of mistakes.
One immigration officer in Lesotho exclaimed when he saw our passports, “I want to go to America
to meet Obama.” This left us with an opening for a number of replies which we chose not to offer.
We could think of a thousand reasons to visit the country but could not see that would be one of them.
We suggested it might be less costly to pop in and say hello to Mr. Zuma across the border.
When we were shown to our bungalow, perhaps the most expensive price we’ve paid in a long time but cheap
for the experience, the employee suggested we shower before 7pm. We thought that a little rude as Jenni
hardly smelled despite the tough walk…well, maybe a little. Freedom in the country is great but manners
are essential, too. It turns out that at that altitude, the water freezes once the sun goes down. Oops, sorry.
The room also has a large container of water provided for washing in the morning in case of frozen pipes.
Electricity is by generator which is shut down at 10pm and comes on for an hour and a bit in the morning.
That evening, there were six guests at the Sani Mountain Lodge and none the following day. However, during
daylight, many local and international visitors, either, drive or mostly take a tour up to the top, eat
and drink before returning to South Africa. Lesotho taxis operate daily runs between the two countries,
always filled to capacity.
On our way down, we jogged for two-thirds of the way, the occasional wiseguy stopped to offer a ride
and comment. It provides additional atmosphere especially talking to people we had spoken with at the pub.
(to be continued…)
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