We had heard much about the Otter Trail over the years but first undertook the sister hike, The Tsitsikamma Trail three years before. The latter runs parallel to the renowned Otter but is positioned inland, making it different in many respects. Both fall within the Tsitsikamma region, an area that is beyond description with mere words. Should we wish to make a grand opening statement about our just completed experience and its location, including the land- and seascapes, the animal and bird life, the overpowering flora together with unusual and outstanding rock and reef formations, it would not be a difficult supposition to justify. It is fair to state, notwithstanding the rugged nature of the trail, the fact that we carried weight (excessive for weaklings) on our backs while undergoing some tough moments, especially climbing and moving along cliffs in the dark, that we sojourned in and through paradise. While I might be known for thinking that most places are very attractive, I still believe that, this region may just have an edge over most. Naturally, it’s an opinion but nevertheless, one in which we stand firmly in support of…at least, for the next couple of weeks...(continues at end).
Hut 1, the first night of the Otter Trail. Jenni faces the Indian Ocean.
Pruning begins next month, we hope.
With all the water about, to think there was only a drip from the shower...or should that be a drip in the shower.
'Oops, I think I dropped the soap into the ocean, Jen.'
Fortunate to get a glimpse of this sunset which seemed like a golden waterfall from the clouds;
a rugged coastline fore.
Capture of the reefs under their own showers.
And who are you looking at? Dassies, not otters, but cuter as we climbed to the top of Skildekrans.
A magnificent coastline.
Jenni, Dina and Alice go climbing on a steep, sharp rock face without much on which to latch.
Crossing the Lottering River at low tide.
The full backpack creates a lot more 'excitement', especially climbing after a river crossing.
The chef struggles to create her usual tasty cuisine...I wonder why.
About 4 kilometers to go as we descend to the beach and then onto Natures Valley.
'See you on the morrow', the sun seems to indicate to its glowing subjects.
Narrative continues...
The trail is respected internationally—there are only twelve available positions per day over the 5-day, 4-night trek—which means that reservations should be made close to a year ahead. Of course, this does not guarantee the weather will be suitable or that the tides will facilitate easy crossings of the rivers. These are important issues. As an aside, we were also warned to look out for an aggressive baboon at one of the huts—we are still trying to figure the criteria necessary to determine the animal’s state of mind. In addition, an even more dangerous species is prevalent, poachers or muggers. Apparently, in the same vicinity, towards the end of the trek, the latter types are known to pay the odd visit. The ranger in the office warned us that in most places cellphone reception might be suspect. Fair enough. A little later, she added that should we come across someone impersonating a ranger, we should call immediately. We are not too bright so we wondered how we’d see through an imposter; also, why would cellphones function at that stage. We decided to focus on issues that were more understandable and manageable.
We were informed that the river water at the final hut should not be drunk without suitable preparations. However, all tap (faucet) water would be fine although it would be quite yellow in color reminding us of… um, we’d rather forget of what it reminded us. Upon arriving at the last hut, we headed for a shower but noticed there was no running water although plenty of Indian Ocean. One of our fellow hikers called into a ranger station who assured him the error would be corrected. (It’s amazing how things have changed because of, inter alia, cellphones.) Well, it took a while, perhaps three hours. Three rangers from the district arrived and sat around a table near our fire pit drinking coffee. We greeted them and asked how things were progressing. They informed us that together with a fourth member, they were working on fixing the problem. Obviously, it was a philosophical rather than merely a physical issue . We were tempted to inquire whether there were any openings in the department—we thought we might enjoy such a position together with a salary.
(Continues on next blog, approximately 3 days hence.)
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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