The showers were terrific except for the temperature of the water. However, the thawing out process provides one with a very warm feeling. At the last hut, I had the pleasure of showering in a cubicle without a roof. At the time, it happened to be drizzling, which helped compensate for the low pressure. While standing in the shower in all my glory, covered in soap, I also had the privilege to watch a group of birds nestled on a tiny peninsula gazing at me as well as a school of dolphins swimming through the waves. I forgot the water temperature and concentrated on the treat before my eyes. Removing the soap from my body became a task when the rain ceased. The shower and single toilet at each hut had outstanding views of the ocean and reefs. In fact, the toilets were raised and enclosed with picture windows in front. As Rudolph, a fellow hiker remarked one evening: 'We would be spending a night in one of the best spots in the world.'
Without wishing to be controversial (that's a fib), we remember standing in a cubicle in New Zealand on the Milford Tramp which was at real altitude with a view into the mountains and valleys. Which was greater? Makes no difference as long as one comes out feeling better than upon entering...(excuse me).. (...continued after photographs).
A typical scene along the coastline...never can tire of it.
The Cape Cormorant, has a habit of spreading and flapping its wings and warming/cooling itself...preening?
Reaching Skildekrans, a rock jutting into the ocean with views to 'live' for.
When I see Jen smiling on a trail it lifts me to new highs...and makes me more comfortable in
having her 'carry the heavier' backpack.
One of our favorites, an unusual sunset in a spectacular place. 'Light' from above searching for a place
to shed light below, takes the gap...desperately needed.
Approaching camp on 3rd day and about to make the crossing. What a delight. It's really difficult
to pass on the feelings that one experiences 'on the trail and road'. Often extraordinary.
Each hut sleeps 6 people, some have a sitting area with wash basin and an outhouse to the right, in this case.
As an aside, there are many parts of South Africa we yearn for, this region being one of them. For the record, as I view
the scene, I think of the country as a whole and remember the feelings on some parts of the trek and find myself in
an emotional state. Terrific!
A fashion setter. Note the left leg's below-the-knee-trouser in right hand. This is what all jet-setters
will be wearing next...century.
Alfred Hitchcock stood here filming these birds...then again, maybe he didn't.
Wild coast although not the official Wild Coast of South Africa.
Jen goes walk-about in the gardens on a cloudy morning. A few sections of the trail appeared manicured.
One of us loves these misty scenes, especially the contrast with the clear parts.
Something bewitching in these scenes.
Reflections on the shore, another favorite.
"Look here, Marius, this is my final offer. My jacket, $10 and one half-drunk bottle of coke for your camera."
When the weight drags, a little help from the arms is not a bad idea.
We were fortunate to meet wonderful people, all South Africans, which is unusual on these treks. (The unusual part is not that South Africans aren’t nice, but there are usually foreigners within the group.) I suppose we were the token semi-foreigners. For the first two nights, Jenni and I shared a hut with four women, Dina, Alice, Anna-Marie and Erna. Unfortunately, Erna fell ill and on the third day, we evacuated her together with Anna-Marie via an emergency exit route. Technically, I suppose we can add the elevation and distance to the statistics. Rudolph, Jacques, Linda, Esme, Marius and Jacques’ daughter, all colleagues shared the other hut. It was a privilege to be together with this group. Dina and Alice proved to be rather special and whereas the former is a tough hiker, Alice provided amusement for most of the period. She taught us how to ‘scrop’, inter alia. For those wishing to learn the technique, basically, one should place both hands into your sakkie (backpack) and spend fruitless hours rearranging it in the dark and still not be ready to depart on time the next morning. Thanks, Alice! The world is a wonderful place when people respect each other and even better, when we support our fellow humans. Throw in a few laughs, some would say beers, others might add a Diet Coke or two, and life becomes more enjoyable.
Perhaps the most unusual aspect was the fourth day experience. We had to cross water on a few occasions including rivers. As the hike follows the coastline, constantly moving up-and-down, the rivers to negotiate which flow into the ocean, form obstacles, at times, most dangerous. As the tide rises, so the water flows back into the river causing its level to move higher as well as creating treacherous currents. In order to cross the Bloukrans River, we set off from the hut at 4am. With no moon, a clouded sky and thus no stars either, our only means of light was the miners’ lamps we wore. As Jenni remarked: Should she had seen the cliff edges, although she knew they were immediately to her side, she might had much more fear. We walked for near on 2.5 hours in the dark but for the little light shed by the small headlamps. A nice view was that of Plettenberg Bay, miles in the distance, highlighted by its own city lights. Walking, climbing and scrambling up and over sharp reefs occasionally being lost, crossing streams and moving along narrow cliff edges created a surreal feeling. It’s something we have never before experienced—it left a strong and we do believe will be a lasting impression. We had prepared prior to the trek for the crossing by acquiring survival bags for our packs, duct tape and rope. Apparently, it’s easy to be swept away by a combination of tides and currents. Instead, because of some forward planning, less sleep and a few nervous fellow hikers, the crossing was an anticlimax. In one way, it was slightly disappointing but overall, a good result.
We have not mentioned much about the hike itself. It was not long (46km) but then it did not have to be. There were sufficient challenges that more than compensated for any deficiency in length. The trail was superb. One was either climbing, much of the time over rocks and reefs and upon reaching the peak, descending back down. Although one did not reach great heights, perhaps not more than 1,500 feet, the accumulated elevation gain was a big number. According to Wikipedia, the gains and losses were approximately 10,000 feet each. This seems high to us but we are relying on this neutral arbiter (5 to 6 thousand feet seems a fairer estimation). We crossed streams and rivers, went through ravines, across tide pools and underwent much rock scrambling. The distance was 42 kilometers plus another 3.5km to Nature’s Valley Rest Camp. As for the scenery, it was superb. At all times, we had full or partial views of the ocean and many positions gave us a side view of the coastline with mountains hugging it. The variation, texture and color of the rocks and reefs were mesmerizing. Sunrises were disappointing because the mountains and our low positions below cliff walls hindered views. The days usually began cloudy, further hampering these spectacles. However, the interplay of clouds, mist and fog over parts of the ocean and mountains provided wonderful contrasts. The change in weather occurred often and was dramatic. Fortunately, but for a little rain on the tough fourth day, we had much sunshine which made a positive difference. As beautiful as the region is, hiking in wet conditions for extended periods would be and is disappointing. The sun has an ability to show the bright side of life and we were fortunate participants or at least witnesses.
One of the differences between day and overnight hikes is the issue of weight and comfort. As we have mentioned repeatedly, a person is free to take whatever luxuries one desires. The proviso, of course, is that a person has to carry the ‘kitchen sink’ himself should that be considered a necessity. Jen and I tend to take plain and a minimum of food. By the 5th day, we usually eat berries, grass and leaves if necessary…hmm!. We took a book each and read in the afternoons and by flashlight in the evenings for short periods. Although it is far from ideal, it supplements the moments when not making or watching the fire, washing the clothes and ourselves or enjoying social intercourse. After tough days, it’s good to contemplate life with the weight off one’s feet. Drying boots and clothes is another challenge and one which we quite enjoy. We find it less boring than watching paint dry. The advantage of having old paperbacks with us is that we use the pages read as a fire-starter.
It’s interesting to hear the views of fellow hikers especially regarding their pain, fears and challenges of the trek. Sometimes a discerning listener might wonder why they (we) are even undertaking such an endeavor. Perhaps it’s because it seems the first meal and drink following or even before a hot shower is going to be an out of world experience. Humans: We’re a strange (funny) bunch.
The Otter Trail, whether one spots an otter or not, is outstanding. By the way, we did come across dassies on a couple of occasions. Had we not been told otherwise, we would have counted them as otters. Bird life is in abundance. We saw many but are too ignorant to identify most. Unfortunately, those of beautiful color and plumage never pose for the camera, leaving me frustrated to a degree. I’m often reminded of the words of an American justice who was asked for the legal definition of pornography. “I cannot define it but will recognize it when I see it”. I think that’s my approach—I enjoy the experience…birding, that is.
When we evaluate the five-day trek, including the people we were with, the sheer beauty and magnificence of the coastline, the type of track we negotiated including the period in the dark, the images we viewed and captured plus all that we mentioned earlier, we would rate the Otter Trail as one of the best multi-day treks we have undertaken. It was a sojourn in paradise.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
Always place for another couple.
Early morning gazing into the sun.
No comments:
Post a Comment