It's appropriate that the penultimate hike was a climactic one although the final mountain wasn’t ‘shabby’ either. Fortunately, we reached many pics (peaks) over the month, not forgetting a large number of alpine lakes, the former all good but some exceptional. It’s worth mentioning a few so we won’t forget the names although we’ll always remember the experiences. They include Pics- Casamanya, El Pessons, La Serrera, Cubil Petite, Besali, Tristaina and Pic Coma Pedrosa (Valley of stones). (text continues after first set of pictures...)
At sunrise outside Refugi Coma Pedrosa, we prepare for a special day while the sun hits the spot.
A little perspective: A view from close to the top, quite remarkable...actually, it was a 'wow'.
A view of the peaks we had to pass to reach Coma Pedrosa, (taken from the trailhead).
The refugi where we spent the night and Estany (lake) de les Truites viewed from somewhere on the front ridge.
Smiling? First of five incrementing peaks to negotiate on the ridge before reaching Coma Pedrosa.
The last push before the peak. Estany (Lake) Negre below.
Exciting times, terrific scenes.
An exciting position although a little unstable...the rocks not the climber...well, maybe both.
Feels like the top of the world—Pic Coma Pedrosa. Three of the peaks in the background were climbed in previous weeks.
More perspective: The birds showing off way above the mountain skyline.
Peering through a colorful gap.
We reached the peak, first of the day, followed by Manell who obliged us for posterity.
Editor heading down via an alternate route and then we changed direction.
Color, mountains and a lake.
Editor reaches peak before anyone else...and what a position at 9,710 feet. The views were to 'everywhere'.
Finally, reaches the peak.
We have mentioned, light-heartedly, that the locals evaluate difficulty of hikes in a cavalier manner. They are ‘green’ -easy, ‘blue’, ‘red’ and finally, ‘black’. Pic Coma Pedrosa is rated ‘black’ which means it is long, dangerous and difficult. While we agree with this rating, danger is apparent but manageable, by applying a degree of caution and not closing the eyes frequently.
The editor was magnificent on the day (and other days, too) which prompted me to utter I considered her a better climber than hiker. Not knowing what to anticipate, the smile was the only answer I required. Apparently, I don’t always get it wrong. Just so we don’t become complacent, the editor in keeping with the spirit of the Olympic Games, has arranged for us to try to summit Mount Olympus in the founding country of the games. You have to like the irony—we’re too ordinary for the Olympics so she has arranged our own for October.
We approached the hike to Andorra’s highest mountain a little differently this time. The previous Friday, we hiked a steep mountain to Refugi Coma Pedrosa, the well-managed ‘guest-house’ at the base of the mountain with the same name. It’s about 2,200 feet from the carpark to the refugi plus another 2,400 to the peak. The distance is not large, making the gradient steep, which happens to be how we like it except on days when the editor prefers to whine. As she is wont to say, sometimes I give with the one hand and take with the other. Heck, I never promised her a rose garden...actually, not even a one-bedroom house. Will you get back to the track!
We were so impressed with the set-up of the shelter, the surrounding mountains and the tranquil atmosphere, (aware how easily it could swing around into a storm) plus the lake next door that we decided it was essential to undertake the climb. In fact, it was technical in many parts with the last part being along a ridge that entailed climbing up and over, gaining height on an incremental basis on four peaks and finally, reaching the goal peak. There were a few positions along the ridge that made one consider what life was all about or question one’s sanity, particularly when the wind gusted. Take your ‘pic’. Fortunately, at the peak it died (wind) making the time at the top, some 4,600 feet of elevation gain, most pleasurable.
An interesting feeling sometimes passes through the system on the trickier climbs. When things begin to look a little 'hot and spicy', one wonders whether one should continue. Then another stage is reached, both physically and in the mind, where there can be no turning back. Finally, one passes over a final mental hurdle in which one knows the peak will be reached. No doubts, no questions.
We mentioned that we were attracted to the bowl below the towering mountains. However, we also learned of high metal content in the rocks and that there might be an electrical storm on the afternoon of the outing. Therefore, we decided to get to the refugi in the early afternoon, sit out the storm and climb to the peak in the early morning and complete the two segments down to the trailhead thereafter. It was a big day but could have been even more strenuous. It worked out as planned and proved to be another spectacular day of hiking, climbing and taking in the stunning views of Andorra. The sights as we gained altitude, not only because of the early sun, were perhaps some of the finest we’ve seen. The addition of clouds covering and exposing mountains across the way kept us spellbound. The lakes below appeared to change color and their shapes, viewed from above, revealed sharp and distinctive edges. The colors of the different rocks and stones set in sand plus the grasses growing on the mountain walls all combined to show us the magnificence of Andorra including the vistas into España and Franca. No wonder we’re crazy about the principality and so many other regions we’ve visited.
Our day began by rising early and taking in a sunrise. Watching the sun light the mountaintops while struggling against a strong fog in the east, reflecting off the lake surface and finally showing us the intimidating ridge bathing in clouds was a sight to behold. We brought brunch with us as is our usual custom, a wonderful one, and headed up towards Lake Negra, a turquoise and at times, emerald-colored body of water. How it got the name ‘black’ seems to be someone’s idea of a joke.
The previous afternoon, we had a slew of conversing companions as Kevin Young of Santa Barbara ate with us and slept in a bunk next to me. An Englishman together with an Irishman (this is not a joke) arrived for a drink, a chat and then headed off on the HRP trail, across Spain, France and Andorra. Kevin was on his own crossing Spain on the GR11. There are all sorts of people doing ‘strange’ things all over the world. I hope we are also strange although some strange things we’re happy to give a miss.
We mentioned earlier that we were due to leave Andorra for Spain on the Thursday. However, after being under Pic Coma Pedrosa and its ridges the previous Friday afternoon, and knowing we wanted to meet the challenge of Andorra’s highest, Spain was summarily dropped and we stayed a further four days, the maximum we could without missing our return flight. I tried a few tricks to extend but the editor knows my weakness. She mentioned two names, Ellie and Benny or even better, Elsie and Benno.
While talking of breakfast and food on the trails, we received a much better understanding of the definition of brunch. The phone rang the other day which was strange as it is ‘locked’. We stared at one another wondering what the familiar but out of place sound was. It dawned on us that we should answer it and could not have been more delighted. It was our granddaughter Ellie, towards whom we are unashamedly biased. At seven years old, she is developing her own wisdom, soon to surpass her Papa. She was instrumental in us obtaining a ‘smartish’ phone because she likes the idea of ‘face-time’ rather than the boring voice-time only. Her Gaga asked her what she was doing that morning. “I’m going out for brunch, Gaga,” she replied.
“What is brunch?” We wanted her take on it. She thought and hesitated for a few moments and gave a reply.
“You see, Gaga, when you wake in the morning, you have breakfast. Then the next meal is lunch. But if you get hungry and it’s not lunchtime yet, then you eat brunch.” We liked the explanation although we hope her mother doesn’t read this.
Weren’t we writing something about Pic Coma Pedrosa or was that an earlier blog? Well, let’s share one more story from the tales of wisdom of Ellie. A year or so ago we were having a particularly exciting time when I exclaimed, “Are we having fun or are we having fun?”
Her reply, “Papa, I don’t know the difference between the two ‘funs’.”
Anyway, there are another seven hikes still in the wings or remaining on the mountains as we’ve been hiking more than we are writing and displaying pictures. They’ll follow later.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
Supplementary photographs which link to those above:
The sun lights up the back range completely.
While on the eastern side, the weather worsens and we wonder what's in store for later.
A view from 'home' (refugi), half-way up in elevation, with clouds blocking the front ridge.
An impressive place, perhaps a great understatement.
The sun breaks through the clouds.
Estany de les Truites, near the refugi, at dawn.
Viewing Pic Casamanya in the distance. Two weeks before we were caught at the peak in a thunderstorm.
'Bogey' coming in low. The peak to the right is Pic Tristaina, reached four days earlier.
Apparently a new technique of crossing the legs on scree.
Editor heading down to pass Lake Negre, the colorful lake that's supposed to be black.
Some more than interesting moments on one of many cliff edges.
