Should there be a call for tears to run down the cheeks, then perhaps it would be most appropriate to do so in the shadow of men who stood tall, way above their fellow travelers on this beautiful but awfully confused and at times, cruel planet. Our humble and totally inadequate tribute to these heroes, but three of a number of others.
Jan Karski.
Oskar Schindler.
Tadesuz Pankiewicz.
In awe and with appreciation,
Jenni and Jeffrey
Some perspective of Krakow, Poland.
There are a number parks within the city, most sheltered by tall and old trees.
The 'Cloth Hall', a commercial development dating back to 14th century. It's the oldest shopping center in Europe.
I was reluctant to leave the town of Strba in Slovakia but we had commitments elsewhere. Last year, I had similar feelings. It means that I will need to convince Jenni of a return to this gem of a region. Somehow, I don't believe Jen will require too much of a convincing argument.
After only twelve days in two different places in the Tatras, the high and the low mountains although the latter is not low, we made our way back to Krakow, Poland. The journey was slow as the roads are not that good in southern Poland although we did notice an incomplete highway that will result in a vast improvement of traffic flows once it opens. We entered Poland, drove to the car rental office, picked up an Uber-taxi and headed to the square where we were staying. No traffic is allowed within the vicinity so it meant dragging and carrying our baggage some distance followed by 3 flights of stairs to reach the apartment.
The 'Cloth Hall' during daylight on the main square, Rynek Growny.
The apartment is typical Old-Europe, modernized with all the conveniences necessary. Quaint and historical with a good pressure shower and steaming water—one of life's luxuries. We are surrounded by stores, restaurants, and businesses including churches built in the early Middle Ages. The atmosphere is extraordinary—there’s a constant buzz with people enjoying outdoor meals, lots of alcohol, beer in particular, local entertainment and of course, absorbing the sights. The city of Krakow appears to be anything but a throwback to its former 20th century conquerors, both of them. It is modern Europe, westernernized with a central flavor. In addition, it is clean and well-maintained.
Rather than offer deep commentary (my ignorance) of what we witness, it is clear the city, at least, has crossed from communist to a rigorous capitalist economy. It looks like a robust, tourist driven, bustling area with activities taking place wherever one turns. Tour operators in horse-drawn carriages, on foot, in battery-operated vehicles, busses and scooters offer a myriad of services.
If one did not know better, the thought of an advertised tour to Auschwitz and Birkenau would seem like some place popular to visit while over here for a fun-filled afternoon. (Tours are advertised heavily.) We undertook not to discuss the dark age of this region and I feel strongly about sticking to the principle. It does appear, to the credit of the Poles, that the atrocities committed in and near the city are not hidden. Cynically writing though, the events of the war years do provide a large tourist inflow and with that, much business. Anyway, who needs to feel depressed?
The 'pretty' night life.
We came across moving sights in the form of a statue and memorial to Jan Karski, a righteous person as well as Oskar Schindler and Tadesuz Pankiewicz. (See earlier blog tribute to these righteous individuals). Doesn't take many of those (although there aren't a lot), to understand the world exists because of such people. Without them, what would be the point.
We spent Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New year, in the city. Over the last few years, we've spent similar periods in foreign countries, enjoying the different approaches to these high holy days with the added benefit of conversing with many different nationals. For so many years, we underwent these occasions in an almost identical fashion and manner but for occasional differences. We understand that some may look with disdain at our being away from 'wherever home is'. However, this concept of undergoing change, new experiences, discovering and making former staid conventions into an adventure, is actually beyond belief. We don't think we have ever felt as stimulated, (at times apprehensive of course, as nothing occurs like clockwork), as during our Hike-about period. There is a momentum to the concept and the idea is to keep moving forward and in new directions in order to make new discoveries.
Early evening outside St. Mary's Basilica, originally built in the early 13th century.
Peering down one of the busy streets although very pleasant for strolling. Pedestrians have the right of way, generally.
In the synagogue, in fact, we went to two different ones as the former service was difficult to follow, being of Yemenite origin. The old standby, Chabad, was two hundred yards away and we enjoyed that more. In our Machzor, (a prayer book), I got a better appreciation for Hebrew as the translation was as expected, in Polish. Jen found a book with an English equivalent. The power of English knows no bounds.
As always, we met some interesting people. We enjoyed dinner after services led by an American rabbi, while we sat opposite Jerry, a Canadian who has spent most of his adult life traveling and living in south-east Asia, now operating a restaurant (kosher) in Tarnow, Poland. With him was a young woman, a newly qualified doctor, who is apparently incredibly talented. She hails from Poprad, Slovakia, a place we had just returned from earlier in the week. In addition, across from us to the left sat a very interesting Israeli couple, Shoshana from Romania, and Mottie who spent his earlier years in Connecticut. There was nobody next to me which says something about yours' truly. Jenni was next to a pillar. Many others sat at the long tables but there was little time or availability for general mixing. Suffice to say it was a fascinating evening which culminated in some singing, always a good way to bring people together. It's not surprising we found the people interesting; after all, many had and have intriguing stories and tales to relate.
Jen in the early evening on a colder night.
The domesticated wimp searching for number 13 of a baker's dozen and finding it.
Time spent in the city was interesting and we told each other we needed the rest. But, did I ever tell you how much I miss the mountains and countryside? You probably shouldn't ask...I could make it a long explanation.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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