Within minutes the fog moved in, changing the final ascent completely. Visibility disappeared toward the top.
Returning to Vihren hut, a treacherous, rocky and slippery trail. The hut is the commencement point for a number of hikes in Pirin National Park.
For a long time, I’ve made the misjudgment of pronouncing that one hiking experience is the best or closest to the best of all time. The problem with stating such opinions is that someone will remind me of what I said the previous day, week or month of a similar pronouncement. After all, a person, no matter how lacking in discernment, cannot have thirty favorite hikes or at least 10 best hike(s) of all time. Even I know that,…I think.
Well, where does that leave me? Fortunately, as I have aged and matured, (the latter is another opinion), I have also grown wiser ( an even bolder opinion). With this newly acquired wisdom, I am reticent to make rash judgments. Nevertheless, old habits die hard and lapses in judgment and wisdom can occur even to the best of them. Well, funnily enough, this has re-occurred and I would offer an opinion that the hike—mountain and rock climbing would be a more accurate description of the endeavor—is one of the finest experiences we've had. Is this a further lapse or a reliable statement? I believe the latter or I suppose I should wait until the next hike before committing. (continues below)
After close to 2 hours, we approach the shoulder for the final ascent of Vihren.
An extraordinary position as we begin the final ascent to the peak of Mount Vihren. It is unique and breathtaking. Note the perfect sky and hence, weather. Within twenty minutes, the visibility amounted to mere yards.
Perhaps, the inspiration for the song "Autumn Leaves".
Snow was much heavier than we expected...not making us happy at all. Who cares about your level of contentment? Get to the top already.
The views became even better.
...and the 'kid' kept climbing higher. I don't think I've seen a better performance for such a tough day.
We think to consider a destination in nature to be supreme, it should have at least the following characteristics:
The length should be reasonable in extent which depends on difficulty and elevation gain.
The vertical gain should be substantial and of course related to distance. Ideally, greater than 3,000 feet for a day-hike.
The trail should be varied including all types of terrain but not limited to, steepness, cliff edges with steep drop-offs, underfoot that’s testing, changing terrain, marvelous views and sights with as much variation as possible. Ideally, the climax should exceed the attributes of the earlier stages of the hike. An element of difficulty, toughness, even a little danger adds to the quality of the endeavor. Weather and light are additional elements that could enhance it. One could go on, adding in particular facets, but I think the point has been made.
This hike has it all. Mount Vihren and the ridge across the way are special. (One of the reasons we returned to Bulgaria was because of this particular mountain and its neighbors—we were here a year ago). What made it particularly difficult on this occasion and special, although the latter is more about the after-completion boasting rights and feeling of satisfaction, was that the steep final fifty minutes up Vihren was covered in snow. This made the return journey tough, difficult and dangerous. At one time, although Jenni coped extremely well, I did feel disorientated. In good conditions there is hardly a trail so one can imagine what it’s like when the steep ascent/descent is snow- and ice- covered. Truth be told, I was not fearful but for the first fifteen minutes, confused until finding direction and a reasonable path that was not of ice. Once we noticed a type of path, it became comfortable but still requiring of full concentration.
The hike is divided into 4 sections. The first is difficult-rough, the second and third are only rough, while the final stage is rough-difficult-tough. Other than that, it’s a piece of cake.
The elevation gain is just on 3,300 feet over a relatively short distance with an underfoot of rocks that requires great concentration and foot placement. The peak is the 3rd highest in the Balkan range. On the day, we met a few people at the top, all who were surprisingly, English speaking, including an Israeli. On the way down, we came across a few people ascending who were all locals. Conclusion: English speaking people wake earlier than locals or are quicker. Seriously though, using our own criteria, we find the people of Eastern and Central Europe to be the toughest we've come across. As an aside, we'll offer a controversial comment which we'd support in a different forum, that: 'The more materialistic a segment of society, the softer its members. A good time to end, duck and take cover.
The town of Bankso, a long way below.
It portrays to us, the massive power and danger plus the majesty of nature.
Piqued and peaked with the fabulous Koncheto Ridge and Kutelo Peak behind.
At a much lower altitude in the early stages and before the weather turned.
Playing to the crowd...okay, to her husband.
While the chamois below are awfully impressed. This gives a good understanding how the weather turned in minutes.
Meanwhile, back at the ranch, the 'hero' decides to join the party and make an effort to try to reach the peak, too.
Finally, down from the peak, now another 2 hours to the hut while facing another magnificent wall.
Reminds us of the Earth's curvature.
Gives a nice perspective of the snow-covering, the vastness, how rugged it is and a whole lot of other aspects of mountain life.
...and how bleak it became.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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