Lazarow World-Hike-About: 54.01: South Africa: KwaZulu-Natal: A re-introduction to the Drakensberg Range, although hardly necessary. 4 hikes, a snippet from each.

Before proceeding, Jenni and I would like to again thank everyone who sent condolences on the passing of my mother. Subject to an error on my part, I would like to believe I did not miss replying personally to those that sent an email. This note is another thank you for the many warm, meaningful, and heartfelt wishes we received. As I mentioned before, perhaps indirectly, there never is a good time to depart this world. However, should one feel that life was mostly good and productive as well as full and that continued existence is a burden with the only change ahead a downward spiral in mental and physical health, and being, then perhaps a summons from elsewhere is in fact, to the contrary, positive. Let each person decide for him- or her- self.

Reaching the top of Camel's Hump, over 2,000 feet, and looking down into Royal Natal National Park. Across the way is the Amphitheatre with Sentinel at right flank. (Contrast with three pictures below).

The Sentinel from close proximity, complements the right side of the Amphitheatre.

After negotiating the chain ladders and hiking a few kilometres thereafter, Jen stands above the Tugela Falls, the world's second highest.

Another view of the Amphitheatre, this from Drakensberg Retreat. (Note the distinctive Sentinel.)

On the way up to Camel's Hump, I said to Jen that should we meet anyone on the trail, it’s likely to be foreigners. Got that one correct although later, a number of local youngsters were showing off their strength. Oh for the flexibility of the muscles and strong bones. We met a couple, frequent visitors to the country, from Hungary. That sure slowed down our ascent. We parted ways after learning much about their lives. Budapest is one of the most beautiful cities visited, further enhanced by the Danube.

Another attractive part to the Drakensberg, a Hungarian couple, the Tutunzis.

We come across a highly de-motivated hiker (sleeper) on the ridge.

Approaching the 'Camel' after a solid climb. It's all so typical Drakensberg terrain and rock. In case you missed it, we love the place, Doug Morton.

After spending time at Mom’s place and clearing what had to and could be done, we headed out to a mountain range to unwind (and strain ourselves profusely), a region so attractive both in and of itself plus the friendly communities inhabiting close by. The more we visit the region, the more we discover and not surprisingly, it gets better.

When we arrived in Bergville we headed for one of the guest farms along a road (in a fashion). As we reached our destination, we were surrounded by towering mountains that seemed so very close that we felt in a bowl. It made us feel we were in another world—a beautiful one at that. We feel the same way at nearly every position we have visited along the Drakensberg. Jenni might occasionally say I’m prone to exaggeration or at best, a little exuberant, but the fact is these places we visit seem to reside outside the so-called civilized world. Truth be told, living on, along and climbing them, feels like we do live in another dimension. I never said I was sane although whenever we meet someone who acts a ‘little crazy’ around the natural wonders, I’m usually in awe of such person.

Harvey Brenner once welcomed us ‘back to civilization’ upon our return from a trip, obviously noticed the expression on our faces and revised his salutation. ‘Okay’, he said, without being prompted, ‘you think you’ve been in civilization and now find yourselves in the jungle’. Perceptive guy is Harvey.

Jenni thought this a little on the steep side as we head for Echo Cave.

Should you meet an old Natalian, someone who grew up in Durban or close by, they’ll tell you all about the ‘Berg’. I used to think they exaggerated, a little full of themselves about their location near the Drakensberg, not to mention their exploits in the region. Now I believe they were in fact quite modest. In Afrikaans, the mountain range is known as the ‘Drakensberg, Dragon Mountains in English (no imagination), Maluti Mountains for the people of Lesotho and uKhahlamba for the Zulu nation. We think of them as Heavenly Mountains with a challenge.

Jen getting a rise out of the landscape as she searches for the 'Camel'.

We are staying in a place called ‘Ledges’. There are a few of these getaway lodges/guest farms in the area, close to Royal Natal Park. We had intended to visit the park again but have not been able to get there. The obstacles preventing us are the mountains, trails and atmosphere in which we are currently based.

For the last 3 weeks following our return from Tonto National Forest, (see a few postings), we have been less active. The blow from Mom’s passing took a lot out of us. The change in altitude didn’t help much either as well as the summer temperatures. Following out first hike to Camel’s Hump, we were aching even in parts of our body of which we were unaware.

Therefore, we thought, we’d ease up the following day. Turned out we did not have accurate information and hiked to Echo Cave which proved as tough but once again, spectacular. The good news is that we felt pretty good after completing it. It’s nice to know that muscle pains are at times temporary.

A little gem 'somewhere over the' mountains. Sometimes a person needs a shower...

South Africa has aspects to it unavailable elsewhere in the world. It reminded me of one of my mother’s quirks. Whenever she came across a person, usually a man, who looked scruffy and dirty, she would exclaim, “I’d like to give him a good bath.” Here we were on the trail feeling dirty, sweaty and may I even suggest, smelly. I needed a good bath. Lo and behold, outside in the open stood a full size tub. In addition, a tap or faucet but only for cold water was in operation. How many countries can boast of a trail with full facilities excluding micro and fridge?

Other times, a bath in a decent tub is necessary.

A perspective of a tiny part of the region.

'Twinkle Toes', maybe twenty years ago...now winging it.

On our first hike, we were joined by a third hiker. George, without any formal introduction, completed the trio. He did not say much but we could soon tell he was a serious player. Jenni thought his name should be Flippy, I preferred Jock, after all, he did not contradict us. A similar occurrence happened a few years ago in Sofia, Bulgaria when 2 dogs joined us for about 8 miles.

Anyway, Flippy is a Scottish terrier, quite adorable. For people who love to be with dogs but can’t take them with on overseas travel, think of a business where a person hires a dog on arrival. We’re not in that league as Jen still prefers me but that could change. He walked about 5 miles with us and before the big climbs to the peak, cleverly decided he’d had enough. He joined two youngsters on the way down. Jen was worried about him getting lost being on his own. I explained that he lifted his leg every so often to mark the trail.

Later, we found out that he hiked down the mountain, and a local motorist who knew him well, dropped him off at his mistress, the manager of our resort. Things work that way around here. It’s another positive aspect of mountain communities. We also heard a number of stories about George. I think we like the guy…actually, a lot.

Jenni and George discuss horse-racing.

George was patient although he kept beckoning to us after being with the Hungarians. Then we met some youngsters coming down who tried to let us know that ‘our dog’ was hanging back—George’s departing point. The following day, we met their Mom on another trail as she was unable to keep up with her husband and boys. Her name was Mary. The family lives in the Cape. After I said that her accent was more English than typical South African, she admitted she went to St Mary’s Convent in Waverley which happens to be less than a mile from where I grew up and close to my high school, Jen’s too. Of course, she is more than thirty years younger than us. Heck, you can’t have everything…(continues in the next blog.)

Back to the Drakensberg Retreat.