54.08 KwaZulu-Natal: Sugarloaf 1, a stunning hike and some 'human drama' in the vicinity.

Nature does not provide different degrees of luxury for man to enjoy, levels of danger to suffer or predictable outcomes. Rather, it confronts one with an environment, sometimes benign other times hostile. It’s for man to adapt to the dynamic circumstances as they evolve and change. It is essential to recognize we can’t choose the ideal circumstances; we need to adapt to the conditions. (JCL)

  A perspective from the side of the Amphitheatre above the Tugela Falls. All photographs besides this and the following one are taken from the other side of Royal Natal National Park, below.
Further above the Tugela Falls.
A view of Cathkin Peak from Sugarloaf side. (1 above shows Cathkin from another angle).
  It had to happen, we suppose. We remember traveling in Oregon years ago and heading for a hike near Mount Hood. Along the way, we noticed two strapping but dirty looking guys carrying rifles. Their car blocked the road partially. We rode around it and a short while later reached our trailhead.

 While putting on our boots, they arrived. I decided to go across to meet them, while Jen waited in the car. Long story short, they were hunters who had got lost, were unshaven and dirty after being in the bush for a week. Relief. They were no threat. The irony is they were locals and Jenni helped them with directions.

 What's the relevance? The other day, we headed toward Sugarloaf with the intention of changing direction toward Metsi Matso (Black Lake) once we got through the gully or gap. It's a tough hike but once again gorgeous...continues at end. 

Enroute to Camel Hump, we glance at Sugarloaf which provides some perspective of the day's climb.
Perspective of the gully climb. Camel Hump in background.
What a position, a background reward.
Jenni comes out of the gully.
A telephoto view from the plateau after climbing out the gully. The Caverns Resort & Spa below.
And now to reach Sugarloaf take a right. The wall gives an indication of the climb inside the gully.
A double oasis of water and color.
Returning from Sugarloaf, with another 1,800 feet to descend.
I try another off-trail route which proves to be more difficult. Jen really appreciates it, particularly the long grass as she searches for snakes with her hands. (Anything to oblige).
Jen on the plateau rock.
Sugarloaf, in the rear, as Jen heads home after negotiating the gully or gap in front.

  Each day the fabulous Drakensberg becomes even more of a treat. This is certainly a region to consider for more permanent living. In a way, had I lived here earlier, I wonder whether I could have departed on a permanent basis. As an aside, the people we meet from this land have a unique culture. We like!

  As we trudged up the steep, close to vertical gully wall, we came across the only hiker of the day other than ourselves. (This was the follow up hike to Sugarloaf along the identical route.) Jock was returning at about 9:30am from a day's fishing at the lake. We had only discovered the lake when we summitted Sugarloaf the previous week. What a surprise to be that high up above the plateau and come across a beautiful body of water.

  Jock, a young strapping lad in his early 30's, explained that as he approached the lake, he noticed a group of young males with dogs approaching. He identified them as hunters who appeared to be aggressive. He admitted, feeling slightly embarrassed, that he had faced a dilemma. Should he take a chance and walk past the oncoming group or, being without a male partner, turn back before they reached him? He calculated the distance between them at the time to be about 5-6 hundred meters. He decided against a day's fishing as he mentioned his 'legs would not stop shaking'.

  I looked at Jen and knew what was traversing her mind. We'd confronted sheep dogs in Romania a few years before and found them vicious. Even more dangerous, however, were human hunters should this group fall within the category. Another aspect of dogs is that they are not focused on race. Over the years, we noticed that dogs living within Black communities are aggressive toward White people and vice versa. Dogs are not racist—that's the way it is.

  We continued through the steep gully toward the plateau. It's a great climb, near vertical, with views to die for (very possible), reaching the plateau upon which Sugarloaf and the lake sit. The plan was to make a decision once we reached this initial destination.

  We heard loud voices and I, being ahead of Jen, saw the advent of 6 young males and fifteen dogs. It was quite an intimidating sight especially as we had been forewarned. They were walking quickly and aggressively. I signaled for Jen to halt, turnaround and head down the gully quickly, knowing the going would be slow. I handed her my wallet (not a bribe). After protesting, she acquiesced and departed.

 For reasons, which are uncomfortable to self-relate, I will not finish that part of the confrontation. However, I will conclude that while one envisaged a situation with vicious hunting dogs and/or dangerous males, that confrontation was averted.

  We changed our plans slightly with Jen rejoining me on the plateau. We continued to hike but with far more caution and later returned down the gorge and headed home after a tough hike physically which had a mental aspect one prefers not to ponder upon too deeply.

 Nevertheless, something did occur that I believe has in a way affected my life—I would like to believe for the better. Melodramatic? I don't think so. In addition, Jen proved again that courage is not necessarily an attribute reserved for the overt 'tough guys' but also possible and perhaps more meaningful for the timid, too. B'H'.

This incident took place on the plateau. After we separated, I decided to capture the gang and dogs on 'film'.
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey