Lazarow World-Hike-About: 38.14/15 Dhampus trek: In awe of the views of Annapurna and some buffalo bull stories.

'It's been a hard-day's-night, and I've been sleeping like a...buffalo. We dare you to pass us by, dudes,' snorted the big bull. "You obviously don't know who you're dealing with...this is Jenni Laz. Fearless, unless it's snakes, cows, bears, hmm! Cows are included because one butted Jen in 2019. Truth be told, we looked out for the critter, seeking vengeance. The quest continues..."

The story that follows deals with a situation that involved this splinter group taking a leisurely dip at the local spa. The smart one was the cow in the shade at rear.

We were walking between Dhampus and Pittam Deurali via Pothana, looking for the turnoff to Tolka as well as seeking a place to eat breakfast. We had purchased boiled eggs and toast at our lodge but did not eat the food at the time as it was too early for our systems. Besides, we also had poor thoughts of roosters and hens as they had woken us before 5am that morning. (What’s new?) A good walk and we forgave them; we were also becoming hungry.

Ahead of us, we noticed a small herd of buffalo taking an early morning dip. It was more akin to a mud pool, so we presumed it was some sort of animal spa. We’re still learning the culture of Nepal. We include a photograph to prove the veracity of the story. We also noticed a few calves about and wondered what would occur at feeding time. After all, they too would need to take breakfast. As an aside, as cattle eat all day, I wonder whether they in fact define the various eating periods. These are important life issues and I find, inter alia, I’m lacking in answers.

After a while, I wandered down to the ‘pool’ and worked up courage to chat with the group, especially the cow. I cannot remember the details clearly as the communication was a little spotty. But to save time and space, it went something like this: “I hope you don’t mind my inquisitiveness, but watching you bathe in this awful muddy pool, I wondered how you would feed your calf once you left the pool?”

One of the bulls kept a beady eye on me but he seemed content where he was. What a pleasure when you don’t have to deal with the macho types who need to prove to their women how protective and caring they are. Nevertheless, I acted cautiously. I also did not want to get too close because the odor was strong, the filthy water and mud was enough to unsettle the eggs recently swallowed, and Jenni needed to know I was not taking a risk (unmacho).

I elucidated further: “When you get out the mud pool, I would think that your teats will be covered in mud. Isn’t that a little off-putting for your offspring?” I displayed much tact.

She looked at me and grunted. I repeated the question and this time, she grunted 3 times followed by a funny sound and then 2 further grunts. By then, I believed I had overstayed my welcome. I turned cautiously, took Jenni by the hand and we set off for Tolka, a town over the mountain and down the hill.

On our return from the trek, I decided to inquire about the animals. After all, they’re fascinating in their own way even though they only have two genders unlike a certain specie familiar to us. We found out that there are many humans who study animals and are experts in animal husbandry (the word will be banned soon, we expect). We did find a person specializing in all sorts of bull. Jen organized an appointment. Turns out the guy had been a cowpoke in Wyoming. He had intimate knowledge of the Grand Tetons which we thought would be helpful. By the way, the Tetons is a French noun. You might check with Alexa.

I suggested to Buffalo Bull that it was cruel and unusual to have one’s offspring suck a teat that was covered in mud. I also mentioned to him that I had approached the buffalo and tried to engage in discussion. I felt a little silly then, but I also spoke of a book I had not read but that seemed pertinent, ‘The Horse Whisperer’. He smiled. He then proceeded to ask me to relay the conversation I had with the buffalo. It was my turn to smile.

I attempted to explain my dilemma, the grunts and the unsatisfactory conclusion. I was surprised when he responded quite positively.

“Please,” he said, “tell me about the grunts.” I had told him about the combination of the three followed by a further two.

“Was there not anything else?”

“Like what,” I asked, a little frustrated.

“I can’t say otherwise it could spoil the integrity of this examination.” The guy was taking us seriously—a first. We became more impressed.

I turned to Jen and asked if she had seen or heard something I missed. She seemed to color in her cheeks. She mentioned that between the two sets of grunts, she had seen bubbles surface. She thought she heard some flatulence, too. Then I remembered there had been a strange sound.

A big smile creased Buffalo Bull’s face. “Now we’re making progress”.

“What has that got to do with anything?” I was a little exasperated by then.

“Once you relayed the whole communication from the buffalo, I realized she was in fact answering your question. This is most interesting.”

“You mean I did have a conversation?” I felt rather upbeat.

“You did. Admittedly, a little different than you would expect. Let me explain. The two sets of grunts only made sense once Jenni reminded you of the flatulence. Without that ‘utterance’ for want of a better expression, grunts are meaningless. You asked her why she would expect her calf to suck a teat, hind or otherwise, covered in that horrible, ugly mud.”

“Exactly!” I responded, becoming quite excited.

“Once she expelled that unwanted gas between the grunts, she provided a comprehensive explanation. I get it. Her answer was simply, no different from many humans: “Chocolate milk.”

A section of the incredible Annapurna range, reaching 28,000 feet.

Early morning hike plus a beer as Jen tests the balcony as we pass the pond enroute.

Sunset over the range.

Earlier that day, Jen undertakes one of the steepest climbs on steps ever. This is the first hurdle of at least 4 very steep sections.

No! That's not a short cut. It's jungle country.

As we pass through villages, the standard questions asked by young and old, include: 'Where are you from? What is your name? How long are you in Nepal?"

Catch the interaction of sun and mountain, Solar and Annapurna, marvels.

Jenni poses with Til and Dilip, the owners of 'The 360% Views Lodge'. This is the best and most modern place we've occupied on a trek. The views are nothing short of spectacular from this building positioned at a high point of Dhampus. We enjoyed it so much that on our return, instead of staying elsewhere, we made our way back to it.

Jungle Jeff.

Unbeknown to the repairmen working in Tolka, Jenni catches us dealing with a problematic western toilet the night following our stay at the above. It is also the shower. When we asked whether they had hot water, the owner answered in the affirmative. However, the unit dispenses boiling water only. Next to it, but at a lower level, is a cold-water faucet. It becomes a tricky maneuver to obtain hot water but cool it sufficiently for immediate use. They definitely do have hot water. (There's also a useful bucket without a hole in it.) To avoid what I anticipated Jen saying, I emptied the bucket over her back carefully. It worked well because the water was at an ideal temperature having been cooled from the faucet. Try throwing a bucket filled with water over one's back trying not to wet hair. There are things we do that I could never envisage occurring, especially at 3-score-plus-ten.

Pictures of Jen and I in the shower are not available...camera damaged through heavy splashing.

Another steep section...actually, it's all steep, after all, it's Nepal.

We were out for 4 days, on our own, which proved superb. The days on the trails were tough but the late afternoons and evenings were relaxing with always good views. We had some wonderful coincidences in meeting quite a few people in situations we’ll expand upon next time. Jen carried a full backpack and coped admirably. She sometimes underestimates her strength, particularly that left hook. One never sees it coming until it’s too late. While we have undertaken 3 of the formal ‘to do’ treks, we’ve discovered it matters not. As long as one is in the mountains, one is trekking Nepal.

In the early stages, we view the road we traveled upon next to the river (dry) despite much rain. Notice we've hardly walked laterally, it's all upwards.