After passing Shanti Stupa, we attain a nice view of the target.
We walk down a flight of steps, enter a lane, make a right into the main road, but not before taking temporary shelter from oncoming or going taxis and motorcycles. Following ‘the all’ clear sign, we make our way down toward Fewa Lake. Who knows, soon we may have to look out for drones? Never a dull moment. When crossing the road, we always hold hands so that the more alert partner can yank the other out of the way of an enemy vehicle. Although Pokhara is a large city, we live in a relatively quiet area. It’s different from Kathmandu in the sense that it has the feel of a coastal town without the many peddlers, fewer businesses and vast population, not forgetting the dust and fumes. We like it very much and hopefully, may spend more periods within its boundaries...continues below.
Heading toward Shanti Stupa, before turning to reach the path to Lord Shiva's icon.
From a ridge walk heading toward Sarangkot, we view the stupa plus a part of Pokhara thrown in, not forgetting the lake. (The stupa sits toward the top-right)
We reach way above the Shanti Stupa with quite a view of Pokhara. Actually, delightful.
From a higher position, we attain a city view as well as that of the Shanti Stupa.
From a lower position and far different angle, we incorporate part of Fewa (Phewa) Lake.
While keeping an eye on the really high mountains.
Our next local challenge, Sarangkot, to the top of the cableway. We went to check it out the other day as we were planning a hike and did not know its commencement point or route. We found what looked like a possible path, asked a guard and then headed up. We decided that we should check it out by walking to the top so that we'd be certain of the directions for our planned hike. Makes sense, huh? Turns out that we walked half-way up then remembered we were not supposed to hike that day—it was a partial rest day. Lucky we are so 'on the ball'.
Jenni going up to the temple while learning 'where there's smoke, there's fire'. Apparently, we learn each day.
Making good progress as we approach from the rear.
Entering the sacred place and facing the Shiva. Jen is a little wary of the snake.
After reaching the top, we seek a quiet spot for brunch. Great view, too.
Closing in on the lake as we are nearly back down.
Another perspective.
From a ridge walk heading toward Sarangkot, we view the stupa plus a part of Pokhara thrown in, not forgetting the lake. (The stupa sits toward the top-right)
We reach way above the Shanti Stupa with quite a view of Pokhara. Actually, delightful.
From a higher position, we attain a city view as well as that of the Shanti Stupa.
From a lower position and far different angle, we incorporate part of Fewa (Phewa) Lake.
While keeping an eye on the really high mountains.
Jenni going up to the temple while learning 'where there's smoke, there's fire'. Apparently, we learn each day.
Making good progress as we approach from the rear.
Entering the sacred place and facing the Shiva. Jen is a little wary of the snake.
After reaching the top, we seek a quiet spot for brunch. Great view, too.
Closing in on the lake as we are nearly back down.
Looks can be deceptive. Nevertheless, like most visuals, from above they improve.
Today we are heading toward the water, which is very attractive. In fact, most days we walk along it either on the way to a hike, a local walk en route to a trek, or for a treat. What treat? Wouldn’t you like to know? We can’t say in case one of the kids, even grandkids, should read this text. After a mile or more, we’ll take a rowboat across the lake, arrive at 'The Typical Restaurant', name rather than generic description, hike some 1,200 feet to reach the Stupa (temple), then make a right as we attempt to reach the country’s newest religious structure and idol, The Shiva Temple, which is probably another 1,200 feet higher.
Today we are heading toward the water, which is very attractive. In fact, most days we walk along it either on the way to a hike, a local walk en route to a trek, or for a treat. What treat? Wouldn’t you like to know? We can’t say in case one of the kids, even grandkids, should read this text. After a mile or more, we’ll take a rowboat across the lake, arrive at 'The Typical Restaurant', name rather than generic description, hike some 1,200 feet to reach the Stupa (temple), then make a right as we attempt to reach the country’s newest religious structure and idol, The Shiva Temple, which is probably another 1,200 feet higher.
Before commencing the hike, we’ll meander down our road, 37th Street, which is fairly quiet, passing at least 3 vegetable stores, a number of fruit shops, a pharmacy, a few mini-marts, numerous hotels, hostels, apartments, restaurants, take-outs, the only dairy, a government tourist office which means it provides zero service whatsoever, trekkers’ service/tourist offices, coffee outlets and many other establishments before reaching the main road along the lake. (I just completed my longest sentence ever). At that time, all these stores, shops and service providers will be repeated numerous times including massage parlors and tattoo outlets.
I should have mentioned currency exchange desks and of course, ATM’s. Very few businesses accept credit cards which means it translates into a cash society. With the currency trading at roughly Rp 130 to US$1, we require a backpack each and an even bigger money sack. Jen carries the sack filled with notes on her head, something learned down in Africa. It’s wonderful having a little international experience. I think she’s sorry she once asked me to ‘show her the money’—I gave it to her.
We cannot believe how many retail outlets there are in these towns, including even on the mountains. On our return, we passed fruit vendors who operate from their bicycles using a scale to calculate weight before reaching the final price. After watching them in action, we suspect the scale is for show mostly. At a street corner, 6 of them congregated closely. Our constant puzzlement with so many businesses selling the same products at similar prices, stationed so close together, is how do they succeed? The more we observe how certain places operate, the more ignorant we feel. Nevertheless, we are holding onto our outdated thinking process as we still struggle to find the flaws in it.
We met a young, local man, Krishna, who owns a minimart situate a hundred yards from our entrance. Over the last fortnight, we’ve become friends and he’s been a delight to get to know and with whom to communicate. The added benefit, literally listening to him, is that he studied at an Australian university. His accent is local but with an attractive Australian lilt to it. It’s obviously most unusual. I feel like living dangerously so I’ll add ‘if an Australian accent can be attractive’. Okay, Mates, go get him! Which of course reminds me of an occasion when returning from a hike up Table Mountain in Cape Town some years ago. We met a group of Aussies who were beginning their walk. After a nice chat, I lost control of my tact and wondered aloud how a country as large as Australia could seldom defeat the rugby team of their tiny neighbor. Just wondering but it seemed the comment did not endear me to the group, thereafter. Rest assured, I have regained my tact…sort of.
In a similar vein, we received a lovely email from Fred Ginsberg, a friend from way before the emigration period, who lives in Australia. He mentioned that in one of his businesses some years ago, he was advised to employ certain types of people. Fred is an independent thinker and entrepreneur supreme. Ignoring the advice, he employed a Nepali national and since then, in that particular fast growing business group, he sought Nepalese employees to fill most positions. He found them, pleasant, efficient and diligent. It appears there was no obstacle they could not surmount or climb. Unlike many employees who are in need of ever-rest, they did not. I will try to get back on track following this sojourn off topic.
As an aside, we’ve come to believe bananas, for example, can be purchased anywhere in the country, even at the most remote locations. I don’t think a person can walk longer than 3 minutes and not find an outlet dispensing them. I’m pleased; I enjoy bananas. Unfortunately, toilets are a rare ‘species’ for those walking the cities. However, every now and again, for a nominal fee, one will be able to obtain some relief. Should you be the cautious type, load your bag with tissues, amongst other things. Litter is mostly under control in Pokhara, but unfortunately, is a disasater in Kathmandu. A pity.
Another aspect of local life that strikes one is standardization. We did mention this briefly a couple of blogs earlier. Society lacks a little originality because of this concept but once you accept the process, a person knows that everything is undertaken in the same manner, making it sort of boring but very easy to follow and adapt. To the contrary, the choice of business names, particularly those of hotels, is original and amusing. Most are in English.
Something that seems inherent in our natures, is that whenever we reach a new region, our eyes wander and usually find a mountain or sight that looks interesting and worthy of reaching. On our first hike in Pokhara, we noticed an incredible structure at a distant peak. At the time, we were returning from the World Peace Pagoda. It puzzled us that we had never noticed it before. Two days later, we were heading toward Methlang which is situate on the mountain on the opposite side of the lake from the stupa when we noticed the edifice once more, far higher than our position at the then current peak. 'We have to reach it' was the obvious sentiment. But why had we never noticed it. It looked like a buddha with a trident sitting atop a massive seat on the mountain peak. We subsequently ascertained the structure was only built and completed in 2021, a couple of years after our previous visit.
Yesterday, we reached Lord Shiva and enjoyed a marvelous hike and outing. Most people take a bus, taxi, their own vehicle or motorbike to visit this holy site. Obviously, we hiked. Along the trails, we probably saw less than ten people over 4 hours, a few who alighted from taxis to walk the last twenty minutes. We mention this because at the site, it was humming. Shops, restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops and others competed for the business of the tourists, mostly Indians and locals. The place was abuzz with excitement. However, it did not strike us as meaningful as did the stupa below which appeared to have an air of higher decorum or dignity about it. Perhaps, it’s the madding crowds. Nevertheless, it’s a magnificent structure of one of the deities.
Obviously, the concept behind it is not meaningful to us but is nevertheless, an interesting place to visit as it sets us up for a testing hike, some knowledge and provides local color. It sure did, even more than anticipated. At the time we reached the top, and many places along the way, the views into the city, the lake, the Himalayas across the way partly shielded by clouds, and the wilderness on the opposite side were truly spectacular. The day was fantastic which matched a week that, at least for one of us, was magical. We need to repeat this hike before departing the country, please Jennilaz.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
One of the roads under construction, a nightmare.
A few hundred yards below the shiva: A little chaotic, making the roads busy while the trails are clear.
From a trail, serenity and sweat.
From a trail, serenity and sweat.
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