A Taste of Whangerei

The Pacific



Kia Ora Tatou,

On our return to New Zealand, not much has changed, we notice. Since March 2009, the time of our first visit, New Zealanders continue to use Maori names. We’re sure they are a wonderful people, the Maoris, but it is a struggle to get our tongues around the language. We arrived at Auckland International and set off for Whangerei—pronounced fangaray—approximately 3 hours north of the airport. The roads are narrow and winding so progress was slow. Try these place names, for starters—Takapuna, Whangaparao, Waiwera, Matakana, Pakiri—to name a few. Then we reached the airport exit.

In the Beginning

Last visit, the customs’ agent was fascinated with our boots. We were instructed to remove them from our baggage so they could be inspected for obnoxious soil and weeds. They didn’t think we might clean them off before carrying them in our luggage? In a moment of pique, we were thinking how sweet it would be to have handed him the boot that was covered in cow dung after our recent Grindelwald experience.

What we’ve noticed, in this country, is the extreme attention paid to ecological issues. Whereas it seems that many countries are concerned with the importation of drugs, pornography, arms and terrorism; New Zealand is on high alert for foodstuffs. The ‘eco-police’ are vigilant of all types of food and plants, especially the fresh kind. Although we declared our edibles, we had three officers discussing the merits of buttered bagels and the harm they could cause to the fragile eco-system in this country. We wondered whether the toasting of bagels would have been more acceptable—perhaps burning any germs or parasites. We kid you not.


Anyone seen the Editor?

“Those are sealed packets of curries,” our editor explained to the eco-officer after the bags went through a further scanning device. “Are you vegetarians?” It seemed a lot easier to answer ‘yes’ than have to explain the intricacies of kashrut. “Do you think we New Zealanders are primitive?” she asked further. “Why do you say that?” we wanted to know, feeling bewildered.
“You’ve brought a couple of plates and some cutlery with you? Do you think we only eat finger-food over here?” Try explaining that to an agent. It seems that we have not seen eye-to-eye with the bureaucrats on both sides of the Pacific, lately. We can only hope that our editor takes a softer approach in future—such a tough woman.

Bream Bay from Clifftop


Cliff and Ocean

Finally, back to hiking. In fact, today was mostly climbing, very steep in many places. We commenced from the beach and headed up a cliff-like bank; a very steep climb followed which had exposure to the ocean and surround. Thereafter, we entered a dense forest, although it seemed like a jungle, which required careful foot placement up the steep slopes. We finally reached Bream Head, a cliff with staggering views circumscribing the beautiful area. It was a wonderful day.

Under the Cliff Head

Too many Channukah latkes or buttered bagels and inactivity in San Diego affected our fitness. It is disappointing to lose the edge so quickly, knowing it takes a disproportionate effort to regain it. However, we have to achieve our fitness quickly. Come Monday, we are going on a four-day tramp (hike) in Fjiordland—we are amazed where our editor drags us. Never mind the printer she forgot in San Diego; we hope our editor packed the portable ‘potty’. Just the thought of it makes us want to stop eating for a few days.


'Lil Peninsula

Haere Ra,

Jenni and Jeffrey