15.03 Salkantay trek to Soraypampa & Humantay Lake (Day 1)

A glorious view of Salkantay Mountain before we head for the pass.


A sister mountain to Salkantay, on way back from the lake


Humantay Glacial Lake, tucked away in a high corner.

We have no idea what the names mean but they sure represent beautiful places. We ‘do not have the
Spanish’ either but are developing a need for the siesta. Post trek we were both, to put it bluntly:
A little flat. At the time of writing, the bodies are resurfacing and ready for the next challenge: Another
good night’s sleep. The trek turned out to be superior with many facets including viewing glorious sights
and sites, incidents experienced, people we met, villages visited as well as watching the general operation of
how an expedition evolves.

On Monday morning, after a restless sleep, we stood outside the apartment at 4.50am, waiting for our ride to
the meeting point. We wondered how long it would be until we resorted to panic mode. Would they arrive on time?
Would they arrive at all? A local dog came by first and kept us company while sniffing the food in our backpacks.
We waved down the mini-bus at 5:10am and the adventure began. For the record, everything worked as promised
which is something to accord much respect. Along the way, we picked up two European couples (one Dutch,
the other mixed, Swiss German and Swiss French), a young Brazilian man as well as a guide, cook, assistant
and mule driver.
This is a first for us, the fact that up to 13 pounds of goods plus food and bedding would be transported instead
of carried on our backs. One can get used to it. As to the food issues, should you ask what we ate, it would be
hard to provide a concise answer. Jenni brought along her gluten-free products to which we added salads, bread,
rice, quinoa, biscuits, potatoes and eggs. It worked just fine especially if one views food as a source of energy
rather than pleasure. In fact, it is a superb method to drop a pound or two.


Clouds, always a favorite, overwhelmed by the vastness and slope of this beaut.


A tiny human in a seemingly infinite world.

The driver was competent as he managed the difficult terrain. The roads are not in good condition and
many that we followed were gravel. Toyota is the supplier of choice in this region. It was amusing to watch
the trek team deal with their fellow countrymen en route. The ‘boys’ have an eye for the women in all parts
of the world—perhaps that’s what binds us together. The driver stopped every now again for a quick kiss,
a ‘hello’, to purchase provisions and even buy a hat. We took advantage at one stop to jump off the mini-van
and relieve ourselves in a sheltered hole in the ground. For one soles, about 35 cents, the loo-guard provides
access and two sheets of paper. Our team was ready.

We are finding that we are often twice the age of the average hiker. It is interesting meeting and mixing with
younger people but it sure puts us through our paces. On some of those steep inclines, thirty to forty years
off our ages would be a great help. Nevertheless, the editor keeps up with some of the best of them while we
struggle to match her.



Vast and overpowering mountain ranges throughout the first leg of the trek.


Salkantay looking much like the Eiger's North Face, in our opinion.

Our first day began with a reasonable length hike to the first camp eight miles distant with 1,300 feet
elevation gain followed by an excursion of 1,400 feet to Humantay Lake, above the camp, of less than a mile.
It was a tough climb, to say the least, with a reward of a glacial lake in full view. It was truly beautiful in
color, positioned alongside the bottom of the glacier. On our return from the lake, cocoa tea and chatting around
the table followed. The 'dining room' was a rudimentary area sheltered with a tin roof and canvas walls, all held
up with tree branches, set on a gravel, stony ground. Earlier we had breakfasted together, spoke much on the hikes
and so we had a good initial understanding of each other—the bonding process of seven hikers, each set with a
different language, had commenced. Following dinner, we adjourned to the tents after enjoying hot baths, massages,
pedicures and manicures. Perhaps the last sentence should be taken with a pinch of bath salt. We were
camped between two glaciers, one being the Salkantay Mountain, an edifice that had deep spiritual meaning for
the Incas. For us, it is a rather beautiful, snow-covered mountain; in fact, it is distinctive.

The positioning of the camp, between the glaciers made for high winds and cold temperatures during the night.
Nevertheless, with warm clothing and good quality sleeping bags, not to mention Jenni’s system of avoiding
the outside facilities, the night was restful, to a degree. At 5am, we were ready to welcome the sunrise and
face a day that proved to be extremely tough, especially the initial ascent to our highest ever altitude on foot.


Salkantay comes into view at an interesting angle.


Jen heads for the glacial lake, the campsite is at the bottom of the 'hill'.


Enjoying a wonderful position next to a lake of colors. (For Dani)

To be continued

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey

As the ultimate goal was the ruins of the Inca City, Machu Picchu, we attach one
or two each blog until the actual hike:.


The Inca City early in the morning, a smattering of 'inhabitants' only.


From somewhere on Machu Picchu Mountain, we use a magnified lens.