26.18 The Kingdom of Lesotho, Southern Africa: Sani Pass, the journey and the sun.

Three days in Lesotho is insufficient, especially when we have hardly touched on the sights of the country. However, three big hikes put us to the test and once again we were thrilled. It was a period of tranquility mixed with rugged beauty and physical exertion, complemented in conversing with nationals from England, Scotland, America, Germany, South Africa and locals of course.
We began the walk after passing through the South African border post (with passports). When we arrived at the top after gaining a little under 3,000 feet over 5 miles, the immigration officer wanted to know whether we were arriving or leaving. Perhaps it was he who did not know whether he was coming or going. Although we have done this hike a few times before, we love it each time. In addition, we enjoyed some new challenges once at the top of the pass, one of the highest in Africa (nearly 10,000 feet). The pub is considered the highest on the continent, whatever that means.

We discovered that there are some incredible hydro-electric projects in the country and our intention is to visit them, too. We met two tour guides whom we had had conversations with the year before. It's always nice to resume contacts even if it's for a short while. The banter between us tends to raise the spirits even further notwithstanding the wonder of reaching the heights of Lesotho.



Looks like the boots are worn out as we approach our new home, expensive but very basic accommodation
at the top of the pass.




Absorbing the stunning Drakensberg, a mountain range with many facets.




Sunrise over South Africa...at least, KwaZulu Natal, viewed from Sani Pass top.





A section of Sani Pass road towards the top.





We returned to Himeville, the closest town on the South African side of the border because we love the region. However, there's another important reason. We could not visit South Africa without looking up Elsa and Derryl, two delightful women who run a lodge in the town. We feel like family. We spent one night at the dinner table with them joined by Sharon and Aldo, two people whom we also find fascinating. Aldo is able to spot animals and particularly birds, with ease. Sometimes we believe he can anticipate which tree a bird will fly and perch itself. Since meeting the couple last year, we think our birding techniques have improved considerably. Then again, we began from a very ignorant base. Aldo and Sharon transported us to and from the border post, respectively.


The weather at 10,000 feet is as expected, variable. However, the constant is that the nights and early mornings are cold. With a roaring fire in the rondawel, we enjoyed warm sleeping conditions—duvets helped, too. Even when cold in the early morning, it's not easy to beat the view of a sunrise while standing on the peak of a mountain. Seldom do we reach such positions in time to watch the sun appear.


A little after 6am, cold but exciting as the sun goes through the morning ritual.





Weary after the hike to the pass, unwinding before sunset.





"Jump on three, I promise you won't fall. By the way, you have too much eye-liner applied, this morning."





We met this elderly wood-gatherer once again (one of us is bored, the other tired). Each time on Sani Pass, we've crossed this man's path. He lives a very tough life, then again, so do many citizens of the world. Nevertheless, he continues to hold out for an exorbitant price for the blanket.





Jen looks down the canyon, enjoying the golden moments late into sunrise.






"...and how come those two dumb rock doves get a showing before us?"




Facing away from the early sun as it lights the ground-cover.





Jenni may be lost as she circles through the 'hairpins'.




Sunset in Lesotho, first night.





Lesotho border post: "Anyone home? I need a towel, my back's wet from perspiration...paper towel at least?
Don't let me have to put the editor onto you border guards."





Part of the road a little after sunrise.




Cheers,


Jenni and Jeffrey


Continuing scenes from Kruger National Park.




Cape Glossy Starling unless Aldo contradicts us.




Caught with his hand in the cookie jar.




The buffalo mudpack reputed to enhance a delicate skin. See buffalo hide for results.





Enjoyed the zebra scenes very much.