Like many of the long tramps, treks or hikes, they leave one with a lasting impression. This will be no different. As our editor mentioned, “To be alone in the veld for nearly five days, knowing that in the night we’d be away from our usual comforts and shelter is a remarkable feeling.” It is indeed quite an admission even from a person who is far from indulgent; nevertheless, we've grown accustomed to the comforts provided for many fortunate people in the modern world. Without wishing to overstate the case, periods alone in the wilderness, if not life changing events, certainly have a profound effect on one. Sure, there is danger and nuisances. The ticks, scorpions and mosquitoes (all encountered), the threats from the larger animals and yes, the list can be quite extensive, are small impediments in the bigger scheme of life. If not our best experience, it certainly was in the top few. Hike-about teaches us to seize each day as it comes, appreciate the freedom and count the blessings.
We mentioned before our two pet peeves while hiking. The first is the idea of ‘as the crow flies’. We are not crows and therefore the shorter distance that the winged specimen flies is irrelevant when trudging much longer distances. The second is that 100 plus degrees is not pleasant because it may be a ‘dry heat’ as some are wont to say. The new peeve is from our colleague, Sven who was one of four others on the trek. He kept telling us that freezing cold showers in a semi-enclosed area is refreshing. We were more adept at absorbing the cold when we were somewhat younger. By the way, Sven is younger than both Gavin and Natalie.
There were six of us on the hike, spread over a distance of some 60 kilometers. An English couple, Nicky and Will, a mixed couple, Joelle and Sven from Belgian and Germany (East) and a mixed-up couple who don’t really know where they belong. Regarding the cold showers, the Europeans are far more tolerant of the cold than we are. When it comes to the heat, even the dry stuff, we seem to have more stamina. Anyway, they were a treat and although we hiked separately, we slept and ate together. Perhaps we should rephrase that. We shared a hut on the first night and thereafter, were afforded the luxury of having a hut to ourselves—age has some advantages—sort of, a senior allowance. The accommodation provides for twenty-four hikers in three-tier bunks. Although not high, climbing up and down in the middle of the night without hurting oneself or stepping on another’s foot is quite a feat. This is the first occasion that we have had showering facilities—we hope the last unless they begin using solar energy. (Just kidding—special note for our children.)
The food array was interesting. There were pork sausages, ham, always with cheese, a sort of double whammy, if you catch our drift and of course, our pasta. We used grass, twigs and wood to create wonderful fires—Joelle being the most capable at the task. Although we do not eat meat, it’s almost sacrilegious not to have boerewors at a braai (barbeque).The water, compliments of rain, kept us hydrated. Only time will tell whether it was clean and free of ‘impurities’ although it tasted fine. As we arrived in the other civilization on day five, we purchased a Diet Coke and sat down to enjoy it. We missed the stuff while in the bush. The funny thing is we did not drink the entire contents and hardly enjoyed it. We don’t know what that means other than scarcity creates desire, which it appears, is easily satisfied.
Man has come a long way since the days of pioneers crossing continents and countries on horseback or with oxen. We notice there is a new concept called ‘slack-packing’. For a fee and depending upon motorized access, a porter on wheels will fetch your backpack and drop it off at the next camp or hut. We think you can request some provisions, too. Of course, there are also the luxury tramps in which they serve 4-course meals and the accommodation is luxurious. Perhaps the appropriate term, rather than ‘slack-packing’ might be termed ‘slap-pakke’. There is no truth in the rumor that soon, one will be able to lounge in a loveseat at home and hike virtually. That’s false; it is possible.
There is nothing like observing the night sky in the wilderness. Without any artificial light, the sky is almost ablaze in stars. The stars are too numerous to count—only exceeded in number by the US government’s borrowings. The sight was reminiscent of the night spent at 11,000 feet on Hawaii’s Mauna Loa, another remarkable experience. The little we have seen of the world, and it amounts to almost nothing, is staggering.
Turning to the hike itself, it is a test. Although it’s not difficult, that is, does not require special climbing skills, it is strenuous. Carrying bags of thirty-five pounds, particularly in climbing mode, sure makes one feel the strain. The climbs slowly wear one down; at times, not too slowly. The hike begins on the western side and passes over mountains, down through the gorges, crossing rivers frequently and then climbs again. It is up and down the whole way. The trail passes through many forests, tropical type forests, jungle like conditions and many open areas along edges that provide views of the area. Fortunately, there is a lot more exposure than enclosures, something we find preferable. The mountains have fine, sharp lines, standing bold and proudly, sometimes covered in clouds, often protruding. There are so many ranges stacked one behind the next. As one reaches a pass, saddle or shoulder, one is greeted or confronted by another range immediately ahead. The challenge continues.
To be continued in next blog...
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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