We may appear to whine about some of these steep and long inclines, especially while carrying the kitchen sink on our backs, but would not have it any other way—the climbs are perhaps the highlights even though the 'switchback concept' is out of favor in South Africa—directly up is the choice. The region is expansive with surrounding mountains in amphitheatre style formations, greenery that seems enhanced, wild flowers of sharp colors dotted everywhere. The rivers flow strongly, the color golden-red, cold but refreshing. Apparently, the tannin from the trees causes this coloring, which shimmers when the sun’s rays fall upon it. As we hiked alone, we took in the beauty between gasps for breath, without distraction. Truth be told, it gave us the opportunity to do some skinny-dipping as our editor did not bring the bathing suits…thankfully.
Day one was easy enough with the second morning proving to be a challenge. The information from the trail designers spoke of a relatively ‘flat-hike’ on the day. We submit it is the steepest ‘relatively flat’ hike we have ever done—we wonder where they found the information. Day-three got the juices flowing with some steep climbs, perhaps a little less than 2,000 feet. Day-four was the test but terrific as we gained nearly 3,000 feet. The final morning was mostly downhill making our way to Storms River Bridge, our exit point.
The day before commencement of the experience, the rain fell hard and heavy. We knew this would mean the rivers would swell, the ground would be muddy, the temperature cooler and the chance of further rain increased. Why should it stop because we needed that result? It also affected our packing requirements which amount to a choice. There is a limit to what one can take on the trip as everything sits on one’s back. Should you want to take your ‘teddy bear’ for comfort then perhaps the gas cooker has to remain in the car. It gives one a good example of choices, decisions and consequences.
What is incredible on hike-about is that each day is a fresh experience. Meeting South African strangers as we pass through different places is nostalgic as well as interesting. On the final day, we came through a forest, walked along a path for a while, crossed through a gate and found ourselves in the ‘other civilization’. One moment we were in the bush, the next we hit the Paul Sauer Bridge in Storms River. It was a surreal period, brief but the change was profound. One can feel the crossing—it helps to use a little imagination, too.
We began talking with a colored family (mixed race) about this and that and then bid them farewell. A little while later, the granny and mother passed us again, held out their hands and gave us blessings. You want to feel moved and humbled, that sure was one of those moments. Even arranging the ride from the end of the hike to where we had parked the car was an experience. We spoke to the ‘Oom’ at the information desk in Plettenberg Bay who put us in touch with Bert and finally Allan, a recovering alcoholic preacher who runs crèches for the underprivileged. He transported us to the start point where we collected our cars. At that stage, we were with Joelle and Sven who we believe had their eyes wide open for the whole shuttle trip. Allan recounted stories of Africa and warned us of the encounters we might expect on our forthcoming car journey north to the Drakensberg. The Europeans may have founded South Africa, but the locals give it the color and verve.
In a later blog, our journey by car going north-east proved to be a ride in a different world.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
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