11.09 The Journey within a journey

We originally thought a car trip would provide an interesting and meaningful backdrop to our visit. In retrospect, Jenni made the point that in America, one should travel by road and in South Africa, particularly in the Eastern Cape, by plane. It’s a good idea. We commenced just east of Plettenberg Bay; our new destination being the Central Drakensberg district, close to Cathedral Peak, a distance of about 600 miles, or so.


This young woman at Storms River gives the old folks a boost before memorable journey

The route we took via Port Elizabeth, East London (stopover), Bisho, Butterworth, Mthatha and Kokstad (stopover), Umzimkulu, Pietermaritzburg, Howick (stopover) and then on to Winterton and finally, the destination in Champagne Valley, Acorn Cottages. To write it was an interesting, frustrating, dangerous, eye-opening, frightening, amusing, something not be missed or repeated would be an understatement. We still are not sure what we witnessed but do know it had an impact upon us. The level of poverty witnessed is tragic. We are not politicians, thank goodness and are clear in our dislike of that class in its entirety, universally. Having got that off our chests, we would ask the local politicians, if nothing else, where do you get such audacity to divert state funds from the people to your self-enrichment? Rant complete, thank you.


The street scene, feel the vibe

On our last visit, we wrote about the driving conditions one encounters, particularly on the open roads. When growing up, the thinking was the solid white line in the middle of the road is never to be crossed. Last year we modified our approach and realized the white line is really a suggestion that one should not cross it. We were rather naïve. After a few days on the road, we now have a better understanding:

There’s an advert in the USA, “Own the open road.” It’s a good start. The individual driver, most know this already, begins with the premise: ‘These roads were built for me’. It follows that any other motorist is in fact, trespassing. Now the white line begins to make more sense. I, the driver, own the road and can go anywhere I choose. Having people paint lines, both broken and solid, is a waste of paint and money. Perhaps it is an art form but then it lacks imagination. For instance, it’s nothing to witness a motorist overtaking (passing) across a solid white line while the car ahead is indicating to turn across the highway. Overtaking around blind bends is exhilarating once one gets the hang of it. We thought zip-lining gave one a thrill.


For the busy woman at the office, a hairdo on the sidewalk is most convenient

We listened to the radio and heard a woman saying that something ought to be done about the 15,000 deaths on the roads per annum. This is a staggering number when considering the relatively small size of the driving population. She’s almost as naive about the drivers as we are about politicians.
Taxi drivers are an interesting breed. In the cities, they settle disputes with guns. Mind you, that’s not too different from the old days in the USA—the locals are a little behind times. On the open road, they presume their vehicles, fully loaded, can enter a single lane highway from a standing start and reach 120 kmh (75mph) in less than three seconds.


This beauty shop invokes the power from above—women only, please. 'Shalom' next door in case of failure.

Farmers appear to spare the grass and scrub on their lands, preferring to use the area alongside the highways. Cattle, goats and sheep are constant threats and obstacles as they graze on the side of the road, deciding at random, to join their colleagues on the other side. The roads are fraught with danger but we suppose the municipalities are happy with the situation—the need for mower gangs is greatly diminished.


After you, fellow. Seriously, no bull. We believe the 'zebra crossing' is a little lower down but he has an identification issue.

School children, and there are thousands of them, neatly turned out in uniforms, use the edge of the highway as a path to and from school, a meeting place with friends and even a place for after-school activities.
Potholes are everywhere. Fortunately, warning signs are prominently displayed at regular intervals along the road. At least a driver is aware of the obstacles up ahead—a nice improvement. On approaching the small towns with massive populations, the roads take on a man-made obstacle. Calming humps slow one down to 10 miles an hour or less, which is very frustrating. This is after all, a highway. Whether calming and frustrating should be used within the same sentence is debatable.



Highway safety or children's playground, who knows

Road works in so many places is a good indication pointing to the improvements coming. Lucky for the next guy. When it comes to marketing and merchandising, South Africa has an edge. When stopped in the middle of ‘no where’ waiting for the traffic from the opposite direction to emerge through the construction area, street vendors ply their trade from car to car. Fruit, chips, corn-on-the-cob, bottled water, sodas, etc can be purchased, at reasonable prices. At time of writing, credit cards are not yet accepted.

The towns and villages are heavily populated. Each woman has a baby tied on her back with a number of older kids surrounding her. The biblical command to multiply works well here; however, the consequences are frightening. The beauty is that most people are smiling notwithstanding the poverty that abounds. It tears one’s heart to see such situations, knowing that many have not a fair chance in life. It’s rough and weighs one down. How fortunate we are.

Better than Starbucks, we think

We are used to organized chaos but not outright chaos. We passed through a number of towns where we found ourselves surrounded by cars, people, animals and probably other things we failed to notice. Cars were going in all directions without much regard to the basic rules of the road. Although we were amazed, appalled by the driving, sympathetic of the circumstances, we were never in fear of the people. Those driving their cars badly, yes; however, not of anyone else. Besides, with our editor upfront, what’s to fear besides getting lost?

Our stop in East London was interesting; Kokstad was very pleasant and Howick ended up as a treat. So much so, we did not want to leave. We spent the first night in East London at a B&B, without the breakfast. Soon after arriving, a group of young Israelis checked-in, too. We had a nice room and access to the pool and lounge area separated from the road with electrified fencing. The following morning we took a walk/run to the beach and noted that the suburbs were no different from so many we’ve seen throughout the country. Watching men combing the garbage for food and items to sell was heart breaking.


Not to worry, probably wearing safety belts that are transparent. Speed 80 kms. We held back and then passed to avoid complications

The villages are obviously poor but there are some attractive houses and rondavel type accommodation. The housing appears much improved upon than the squalor in the poor areas of the cities. The positioning of many of the villages, often on mountains and hills, provide outstanding views of gorgeous scenery.

By the time we arrived in Kokstad, the rain had commenced; we were tired from a tough day’s travel. The first two hotels we tried did not provide internet access, which we need for business purposes. We pushed on, finding a ‘bed and breakfast’ in what Jenni termed the oldest house she had ever seen. Our room did not have a door lock but we were assured, as most establishments do, that we were perfectly safe. We are, of course, dumb foreigners so we are easily convinced and comforted. During the evening, we sat in the lounge where the internet access was the best we have used in months, including most motels in the USA. The owner, Shaun, originally from Sandton (our former town), lay on the couch watching television while we worked. Jenni ended up making him tea. He’s a nice youngster but has terrible taste in entertainment.


Zulu traditional dress of a beautiful woman

We pushed onto Howick, which turned out to be most enjoyable. We found a place on a huge estate that offers corporate facilities for conferences. We stayed in a rondavel because we’re not corporate types; nevertheless, it proved to be an ideal setting, most comfortable, too. At places of accommodation, garages and trails when the locals decide to hike, conversing with South Africans is an enjoyable experience. The use of colloquial terms brings color to the conversation and refreshes our vocabulary.


A shepherd on the Drakensberg slopes wanted our camera. However, he meant photograph. The photos were dropped off at the hotel & when he comes in to charge his phone, he'll collect it. It's a system, at least.

One of the highlights of the trip, funnily enough is buying ice-cream for the kids. It makes little difference in the scheme of things but for a moment, creates this tiny bond—it’s nice but of course, so little. Another thing we always find uplifting is the greeting of fellow inhabitants of the planet. It is a simple thing but it makes a difference. It appears, the less sophisticated the people, the friendlier they are. There's a lesson somewhere in that.

That about brings us up-to-date, explaining to anyone who reached this point that the real civilization, at least to one of us, might not be where we live but rather where peace and order prevails…on the mountains and in the wilderness.


More pleasure for us than the cute kids—ice cream, universal sweetness

It is our hope that we have not offended anyone with any comment made; they are really nothing more than some thoughts and perspective after seeing a little more of the hinterland.

Cheers,

Jenni and Jeffrey

A few odd shots from around the country:

One of the few dams/lakes we've seen of great color, Sterkfontein Dam

This guy knows how to show off. We were on the Blue Grotto hike (different from where we zipped) and heard strange sounds from above the forest. It was a guide, probably quite bored.

If you're going to strut, then this is the 'woman' to learn from

Only our second snake this trip. Jenni held me back before...I could run away

Cute kids take to the road