Surreal as clouds allowed us a glimpse of the 'back-wall'
A typical scene in the Drakensberg, heavy downpours are kind to the very green grasses
Like a beautiful woman who knows it, the Drakensberg Mountains stand sultry under partial cloud cover, some mist and surrounded by greenery, the latter almost artificial in bright color. Attractive, to say the least, but also irritatingly erratic. The heavens have difficulty with the impetuous creation, too. Daily thunderstorms of enormous power frighten the residents of the valleys as the battle plays out between mountain and Maker. We stand around in awe and trepidation, waiting for the sparring to cease for a while, allowing us to climb up these beauties. As with most areas, the formations, geology and flora tend to have their own unique flavor—the Drakensberg is no exception.
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Approaching the mushroom after climbing nearly 1,700 feet
A view of Cathedral Peak Hotel from above, might be nostalgic for ex-patriates
We are in Champagne Valley, a wonderful area—rolling fields surrounded by mountains and farms. A few miles further on are many kraals and villages, homes to the local Zulu folks. On the way to our hikes, we passed alongside villages and once again, the schoolchildren filled the road, making our journey slow and not without danger. One has to be so careful as the kids, ranging from three-to-eighteen, make their way to and from school. Cattle, not on the way to school, also provide a challenge. The roads appear to be a great venue for social activities, we notice. Fortunately, many schools are active in the area—we can tell from observing the varying uniforms worn by the the kids.
A little climbing under massive rocks and soft mist
The trails in South Africa, thus far, are quiet. Today, we met people from Switzerland, always Germany and one or two other nations. We were looking forward to seeing fellow South Africans but apparently, they are either on holiday, building the trails or watching cricket. A person comes to Africa and ends up meeting many Europeans. Go figure!
Our hikes commenced from the exceptionally positioned Cathedral Peak Hotel. Jenni mentioned that we stayed here about 27 years ago, accompanied by Gavin and Natalie—Robert had not arrived on earth yet. We remember one part of the trip clearly. We took part in a soccer game between the black staff and the white residents. A case of beer was the wager. The locals beat us, a good result.
Jenni looks up and thinks it not a good idea—the climbs are steep and without switchbacks. However, the grass is always greener on this side.
Today, we arrived in our little car and found ourselves sandwiched between many of the fanciest automobiles on the road. Nothing in life remains as before. This time we walked and the Africans drove the great cars, we walked some more and the Africans rode past on horseback. On our return from the peak, a wedding had begun—the mayor was taking a wife. We stood in dirty, sweaty clothes while the locals were decked out in the finest. Some of the women, weighing no less than 200 pounds, showed incredible skill balancing on stiletto heels—more a tribute to Italian shoemakers than poise or good taste.
One of the views from Mushroom Rock
Mountains of the 'Berg on a rather dull day
What a turn-around. Our good wishes to decent people everywhere...always. We could not help wonder as we observed the elderly black man on horseback leading the local holidaymakers on the trail. He was clearly an ‘old-school person’. For the early part of his life, living under an oppressive regime, he would lead the ‘white bosses’ on horse rides. Many years older, his job remains the same but he now leads the ‘black bosses’. We wonder how he views the changes.
Cathkin Peak from a distance, two days later we got close to it, see below
We perched to the right, much higher up than this picture (at that time, clouds covered it), 300 meters from Mount Sterkhorn's peak.
The hike to Mushroom Rock was incredible. It is short in distance but steep as all he… The elevation gain is 1650 feet over 2 kilometers, making it a rate of gain of about 1360 feet per mile. Usually, 600 feet per mile can give one a workout. Should a person do this hike once a week, we guarantee you will never put on weight, no matter what you eat. The views of many mountains in the ‘Berg are quite staggering especially with the mist covering. Nevertheless, we look forward to sunshine and if it can be arranged, cool hiking conditions. Is that an unreasonable request?
The other hike through the valley with some inclines gave us wonderful views, too. The only problem is the long grass in places. We think the maintenance team wishes to give the serpents better odds against Eve’s children. We have no desire to get into an old and ongoing battle, though.
Cheers,
Jenni and Jeffrey
Another typical 'Berg scene
A selection of odds and ends from the Berg:
As close as possible, not having a telephoto lens
Showing an awful lot of 'attitude'
Perhaps, a duiker
Africa's version: 'Look Ma, no hands'
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