63.07 Nepal: Pokhara: The hikes have been spectacular, the views equally so. A Big 5 hiking panorama selection.

Seldom seen from Pokhara at this time of year: Fish Tail. (See end for one our favorites of the 'Tail'.)
  This blog illustrates by way of a limited set of photographs, an introduction to some spectacular times on and around the mountains of Pokhara, these last few days. Truth be told, the feelings we both seem to be experiencing are of attaining a fuller understanding of the land and people, loving the hiking, enjoying the sights immensely and relishing in the atmosphere. At the same time, we are pushing our aging muscles perhaps a little more than we anticipated. While the weather has been much better than expected, the level of humidity is well outside anything we have experienced, perhaps ever. 

  Another way of expressing ourselves is to state that it always seems that the more difficult or strenuous the challenge, the greater the reward, satisfaction and personal elevation. It is no surprise as it has proven to be a fact from our history and experience. Add to the unusual or at least different atmosphere of being in Nepal, that the presence of very few tourists is making it much quieter, and our coming to understand different cultures over the years a little deeper, it all combines to provide something special in our lives. That things can change negatively is reality and always a worry but, in the meantime, being outside a confused western environment is proving to be most uplifting once again. 

  Earlier blogs (and no doubt future ones), deal with some of the human relationships and quirks experienced and those that will develop. Whether one is involved with storekeepers, our various landlords, bus conductors, waiters and even strangers, the 'bonds' that develop in these encounters are uplifting notwithstanding most will fade quickly. I'm going off a little but one of the occasions I enjoy is shopping at a particular vegetable store. The proprietor is a youngish woman who is about to give birth. We hardly communicate in words because of the language barrier but I might be presumptuous in saying that we have a wonderful understanding. Who would have thought our visits to a tiny, crowded (crates and cartons), dusty, vegetable store would be memorable occasions. Some might think 'the kid' is losing it...probably correct.   

Part of the great Annapurna Range, the world's 10th highest.
Partway up the trail/forest path, we catch sight of the Shiva Temple, our intended destination by way of Shanti Stupa.
Getting closer, as Jen gazes up after passing the Shanti Stupa a few minutes earlier.
'Bingo'. Lord Shiva.
Jen arriving in Pumdikot via trails, jungle paths, steps, all steep climbs, to offer greetings. It being a Monday in July, it is a form of holy festival, hence a large crowd. Fortunately, the path/trail was empty. 

 On a previous hike, we pass Devi's Falls and take a peek. Staggering, especially because we are in the monsoon season.

For perspective, a view of Shanti Stupa from across the lake and the opposite mountain.
A view of Shanti Stupa from just below Shiva Temple as we commence our return to groundlevel.
Jen approaches the stupa from the rear after dropping 1,000 feet or so from the higher temple.
From across the way above Methlang, 4 icons are on display, including the two temples in the distance.
The water coloring and patterns of Phewa Lake are once again varying.
'Flower power'...as we look down toward Lakeside, Pokhara.
A view from on high.
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey 

'Fish Tail' in its glory, a different angle and as close as we could get in early evening, during a previous trip.

Provides a perspective of the lake, valley, mountains and the sprawling city, we think, including Shanti Stupa. 

...and some of the struggle. The sign of course reads, "Keep off the wet grass".

63.06 Nepal: Pokhara: Contrasting scenes from lake level with that of mountain positions.

  We wander at lake level for a short while, and then head into the mountains. 

The still, calm waters with a polished sheen and a hue of blues join with reflections of clouds to provide stunning and tranquil views, not forgetting soul enriching moments.
After a wild scooter ride, Jen elects to take the bus home. And we tell everyone that we walk and hike. We slipped...(we kid)
  It’s probably not wise to predict what will occur or even try to gauge possible occurrences—it could leave a person flat-footed or perhaps on a wild ride. Of course, most of the time one’s day can be planned and the said plan adhered to with minor variances here and there. It’s the things that come from ‘left field’ that confuse a person. Why do I raise this? Of course, there has to be a story somewhere in this little lot. One hopes it’s a decent one...see below...

 The fishermen walk upon the surface...

...while the boat skates upon the surface.
Change the focus, alter the coloring.

Then, on the next day, we head up a tricky jungle ascent and experience some of the wonder of Pokhara and Nepal.

Jungle on the one side, city below.

Shanti Stupa across the way, always a dignified sight and site.
Haunting, mesmerizing...just love it.
An infrequent view of one of the Annapurna Peaks.
Sprawling city.
  Following two strenuous hikes on the mountains, we began the day without hiking plans but a willingness to rest. We then set out to do some shopping; we do that often because of the nature of the country's retail structure as well as a lack of our own transport. 

  On our way to the shops, we met Krishna, a youngster we got to know quite well last year. Thereafter, we decided to have lunch on a formal basis, something contrary to our usual brunch on the trails. We found a vegetarian restaurant which in and of itself is hardly surprising. It’s a popular form of food in the country. 

  During the shopping trip, which usually entails visiting a number of stores as each specializes, my credit card was not accepted for reasons I could not understand. Therefore, we paid cash instead, the common method of payment. That threw me out a little as our cash resources were depleted and I would need to visit an ATM. We returned home to offload the groceries and departed again for veggie burgers and salads and dare I add, French fries. 

  We were sitting at the table watching the world go by, in a fashion, when it struck me that I might not have sufficient cash in my wallet to cover the meal. Oops! Although we sort of knew the proprietors, I did not want to have to explain our low cash system and the need for a short-term loan. I said to Jen I would dash down to an ATM, about 15 minutes roundtrip. I also warned that should she be tempted to sneak my fries while I was away, there would be serious ramifications. Funnily enough, as I have aged, potatoes which I had been crazy about are no longer an attractive vegetable. I’m sure that’s something a reader might find fascinating. Well, I try. Juicy, ripe tomatoes, green peas and saucy, spicy Jenni...um...concoctions are a real turn-on, though. 

  I headed off with Jenni’s words echoing in my mind ‘don't get lost’. At the first cash machine, I went through the typical process, and waited for the dispensing of notes. ‘Transaction cancelled’. I tried again—no change. Then I searched for another machine, a few minutes further away. Result: the same. I tried another card. No luck. The guard outside the bank suggested I repeat the process. 

  Just then, a message arrived from Buddha. Actually, it was Buddhi, our landlord, perhaps a messenger (angel). He had noticed me struggling as he rode past on his scooter. 

  “Climb aboard, Jeffrey,” he shouted, “I’ll take you to the more reliable machines.” 

  It’s a problem at times, the issue with ATM’s not always functioning. That Buddhi passed by at that moment, that he noticed me standing around, and that he offered kindness was incredible. 

  I climbed onto the back of the scooter, a first since I can’t remember when, and we headed off, not into the sunset, more likely the rain. Buddhi was shielded with a helmet while Jeffrey relied upon a hard head. We rode at least 5 minutes further away from the restaurant, negotiating the potholes, not always smoothly, while successfully avoiding other motorists and pedestrians. I did not wish to hold onto Buddhi so I grabbed the back of the seat behind me firmly, wondering how stable I’d be should we take a hit. Not a pleasant thought. The ATM’s, as Buddhi suggested, functioned smoothly, allowing us each to top-up our wallets. During this period, I hoped Jen would not be too worried but what would she think other than something negative. The uncertainty in her mind worried me, even more so than the security of my fries, burger and salad. 

  All’s well that ends well, especially when one is a recipient of human kindness. Thank you again, Buddhi. 

Water changes color yet again.
The cable cars have just crossed, the scene of a great trail.
It only takes a twig to block or accentuate a view.
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey

63.05 Nepal: Pokhara: Phewa Lake, a 'reflecting stroll' plus a couple of perspective views from the mountains.

Perhaps this is a visual explanation of tranquility. (One of us loves reflections).
Add in a personal touch.
A week later, we are hiking in the mountains and we discover comparable cloud formations when we peer down.
A restaurant along the lake.
Haunting and/or wonderful.
A water-color change
Sarangkot Peak above a casual boating dock.
On the other side of the lake, a dearth of visitors.
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey

63.03 Nepal: A glance at few pictures from a tough hike in Pokhara, illustrating why we are so fond of the region.

  A tough hike, in steaming conditions, thick jungle, and with a climb up to Methlang, above Pokhara. (The full set of pictures to be posted later.) 

Overlooking Fewa Lake and part of the city. The stupa on the rear mountain, another favorite hike.
An opening in the jungle.
Floating amongst the clouds, Annapurna Mountain raises one of its peaks through the clouds. In the current season, this was a most fortunate showing.
We reach a higher altitude than the stupa, providing a wonderful view.
Shiva Temple, higher and further right of the stupa above.
Telephoto makes our interim return destination appear close.

Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey 

A close up of the Shiva Temple from last year's hike (see above).

63.04 Nepal: Pokhara: Reaching the Shanti Stupa in light rain...it doesn't get much better.

  In the previous blog (an earlier hike), we show a couple of views of the two temples from the other side of Phewa Lake (south) on the opposite mountains. This blog deals with a steep climb to reach Shanti Stupa, the Japanese World Peace Temple. 

On a rainy day, both the Shanti Stupa and Shiva Temple come into view as we round a bend.
On our way to the stupa, we divert to a hill which provides wonderful views into the valley and surround.
  While we were walking toward a trailhead in the rain today, we remembered why we enjoy being in Nepal. Actually, we enjoy being in most parts of the world that we frequent. It’s partially a state of mind; it encompasses a rather large element of freedom; it encourages the unshackling of bonds but for a few, as well as relinquishing conventions, plus other aspects, too. We’d like to believe it always means holding onto core values, many considered out of date in the modern world. Looks like when we leave the world, we will be taking most of these principles with us...seems not required here any longer. 

  We have never been intimidated by rain provided it falls without lightning bolts illuminating the way. However, we’ve never been too keen to commence activities in the rain. Today, we threw caution to the wind, although it was completely still, and headed out with light backpacks and umbrellas. Our commencement point was well over an hour walk from the apartment. Practically speaking, the hike began once we locked the front door, after dealing with a cockroach. We decided against taking a taxi to the ‘trailhead’ in case of being ‘rained out’. The idea was that we would walk to the commencement point and should poor weather develop then at least we would have completed some exercise. Should the weather improve than we would be penalized with extra hiking. “Cui bono?” Always us...continues below... 

 Along the way, the climb takes its toll.
One of us tests his muscles and endurance in a stressful manner as well as shields the backpack.
Getting close to the stupa.
Jen arrives, almost recovered from recent illness. Brave girl!
A view from one of the peaks.
There was much activity in the streets as it is apparently a festival. Nevertheless, it’s outside the regular tourist season making the town relatively quiet. The shopkeepers sit in the front of their stores daydreaming, sometimes trying to entice us into the shops or conversing with buddies. Frankly, life looks extremely slow and boring for many. As an aside, for the sole trader to make a living it must be extremely difficult. It seems that every 3rd or 4th store sells the same merchandise. In our road alone, probably of a length of 600 metres, there are at least a dozen or more vegetable stores. Restaurants, cafes and general dealers abound. What do we know? The system must work as we see most of the same stores operating on each visit except for the dairy. A delightful young woman proprietor took care of us on our last visit, but the store is now shut. We did read of an activist, extreme group of cows lying in the streets—this might be a reason affecting her business. 

  Back to the walk. After chatting with Buddhi, our landlord, for a while, we headed into the streets of Pokhara toward the lake. We intended to cross over a very narrow part, basically a stream, head through another part of town and then climb the extremely stiff incline of steps and slopes, arriving at the Shanti Stupa. It can be seen from many different parts of the city. In fact, in the previous blog, there are a couple of photographs of this auspicious sight viewed from across the lake and up the mountain on the opposite side. Today, the intention was to visit the temple and try to learn something about life in general, local customs and above all, to challenge ourselves physically, following recent illness. No matter how often walks in this region, it continues to surprise, amaze and uplift. 

  Our walk through the town was most pleasant even with steady rain falling. Once again, we cannot explain the feeling easily but will try. It was as if we were in our own little world amongst this large, unusual society but that we felt we belonged. While we did not see another westerner, we also don’t see ourselves physically (we don't carry a mirror), so we don’t feel we stand-out. Not that we really care. It’s a funny thing but wherever we travel, it's as if we belong there, as if we're at home. We’d like to believe that’s how the world is supposed to operate but we are not quite that naïve. Clearly, we are foreign, we look different and probably are strange as well as talk ‘funny’. Once again, while we have much respect for locals all over the world, we have this feeling of belonging. Call us odd and you’re probably correct. 

  I still haven’t got to the other feeling regarding rain. It felt so pleasant as the rain fell from the clouds, bouncing off the umbrellas with more than occasional drops soaking parts of the body. It was a surreal feeling while walking along the traffic, both pedestrian and motorized, aware of the noise and mobility, but not being part of it. We were in our own space as we made our way directly to our destination with an incredible opportunity awaiting us to climb high to reach the stupa as well as gaze at the Shiva Temple, somewhat higher. The latter was not our intention to reach on the day because of the extra distance we had covered as well as the rain that recommenced after some respite. The previous week we had climbed on the opposite side mountains and had wonderful views and perspectives of these temples. The more one visits these places, the better appreciation one develops of the magnificent surroundings and the foliage, Eden like gardens, should one ignore the litter and incomplete building sites. 

  The few views of Phewa Lake are magnificent, varying throughout the day because of position, light and weather. The flowers at this time of the year are in full bloom. While the weather is extremely humid, there are benefits, perhaps the rain soaking the body and washing off the perspiration as a form of compensation. It is surprising how large the city is, stretching in three directions, a sprawling mass of colorful buildings. As we have mentioned frequently, from distance and height, most things provide a much more attractive view. While at street level things are inclined to be ugly, incomplete and run-down (sorry to mention this Pokhara and Kathmandu) from the mountains, the sights are overpowering. Add the surrounding mountains and natural sights and one cannot help but be overwhelmed. Today, with the low clouds spreading, lifting and returning lower, once again we exercised our privilege of observing miracles of the world. Sometimes it’s frustrating because there is too much happening to absorb fully. Better that. 

  Early stages as we head to the mountains...see paragraph below.
In a touching moment, as we walked in the earlier stages with umbrellas shielding us, Jen remarked that she enjoyed holding Mom's umbrella. After her passing, Jen took possession of this small item and together with a few other pieces, treasures them. The bond between mother and daughter was always beautiful. (I do not use the description 'in-law' as it seems inadequate.) She mentioned that she felt Mom shielding her, being close-by, perhaps even protecting her. Indeed, it was a humbling and incredible few moments. 

  We enter into serious negotiations which concluded with the exchange of upliftment for 3 energy bars.
We’ll conclude with the 'highlight' of the day. After returning from the mountain stupa, we decided to take a bus partway back to the apartment. (In the end, because of a miscalculation, we added much extra to the walk...what's different?) We like the bus ride because it’s an opportunity to observe a facet of society from close quarters. What we really enjoy is the antics of the bus conductors. It’s first-class entertainment from stop-to-stop. It appears there are no formal bus stops but rather, the conductor observes potential passengers standing on the sidewalks. He’ll shout out something, at times alight from the bus, engage in bursts of conversation, bang on the metal to signal for the driver to stop or recommence. This process is performed with aplomb; we often feel like clapping after alighting from the bus at the end of the journey. We might add that we cannot remember ever giving a bus conductor tips before, that is, gratuities, not suggestions on how to improve the service.

 A sprawling city looking good from height, touches the lake.
Standing above the lake and absorbing the magnificent views.
A little ominous on the southern side.
A lot more ominous?
Often on the trails, we might play hide-and-go-seek. This was one such occasion. (Jen in a dark spot, lower-right).
Another early peek at the two temples...
...soon after spotting them.
A room with a view of Eden.

At last, the Shanti Temple. We've never seen it almost deserted such as this.
Across the way, another favorite hiking destination, Sarangkot. (Note the structure on the pinnacle).
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey  

Another perspective of the Shanti Stupa viewed from across the lake and upon the southern mountains on the Methlang side.