63.01 Nepal: Kathmandu: Swayambhu Temple, a walk through town and up a hill.

A view of Kathmandu from the temple. Like most views, increase the distance and/or height and the subject becomes more attractive.

  Should a person wish to undertake a luxury trip to Nepal then we would submit that such person is missing the point of visiting this unique country. On the other hand, many countries of the world can offer a similar rugged, no-frills experience as does the land of the Himalayas. Another proviso is that while we seldom take luxurious trips, actually cannot think of any undertaken, the real experience reaches a crescendo once a person lives like the locals or at least, gives up western luxuries. A side benefit of foregoing a typically comfortable lifestyle is that one develops a new-found appreciation of the basics and as for the luxuries, when they arise, make a person feel deliciously spoiled-rotten. A true benefit of this ‘sacrifice’ is that the basics become better enjoyed and more importantly, appreciated, while the luxuries less desirable. Of course, this is our opinion but over the years it became clear that we grow much more from materialistic deprivation than having an abundance of it. (Remembering the concept of balance.) 

  When we planned the trip, we knew it would have to be different from two earlier experiences undertaken in the spring, early summer months. The difference is that July and August cover the monsoon season. This means that we would endeavor to limit long treks and favor shorter hikes closer to cities and towns. We would be attempting to walk between the raindrops. Our first 3 days after arrival brought plenty of rain and while the forecast called for further cloudbursts over the following 2 days, it transpired while it looked like rain, it held off. We had the wonderful burden of carrying umbrellas but not using them. Nevertheless, at the day’s conclusion we were soaked because of perspiration rather than miracle water from above. 

How different is this 'child' from human babies.
Arriving at the temple late again...locked-out.
I wanted to tell them we discovered the reason why people might not attend regularly or arrive late. Something to do with the steps. (That's Jen watching her footing.)
  Where does one commence a visit to Nepal? Once out of the airport after completing typical third world paper formalities, grab a taxi. It does not take long to realize that everything is a negotiation in the country. While our idea is not to strike tough deals with service providers, the first price quoted is usually out there in the hemisphere. We were walking down the steps from the Swayambhu (monkey) Temple the other day and were ‘accosted’ by at least 3 vendors at different stages. They offered a trinket at an opening price of thirty rupees and it seemed the price decreased with each step we took. Within twenty seconds, the price was reduced 3 times arriving at a 50% discount from the opening offer. That provides a taste of how things work in this environment. While one wishes to see the people succeed, bad faith does arise when one is treated as a dumb, sucker westerner; thereafter, one becomes a little tougher. 

  When we walk along the roads, sidewalks (pavements) are mostly luxuries although they usually exist but are often filled with debris, stores’ merchandise or under construction, not forgetting sleeping dogs that tend to spread their tired bodies in luxurious poses. Solicitations abound offering anything from trinkets, a ride in a rickshaw, clothing, taxi-drivers hound us even though we thought we looked like hikers, restaurants entice us and today, I was even offered a haircut. 

A different view of the city.
Colors brought to us by nature plus a house on the hill.
On the way home, the easy route.
  Possibly the most exciting thing to do in Kathmandu is drive through the city. Another adventurous idea is to walk about this fascinating place. By fascinating, perhaps a better description would be different. As we mentioned in the opening paragraph, should a person be on foot or passenger in/on a vehicle and expect to experience order, cleanliness, comfort, and have a host of other expectations, one should return to the airport and continue onto Singapore or elsewhere. However, should one wish to experience life, particularly lived in chaos, then you chose the correct place. We’ve always considered the city to be organized along the lines of structured chaos but lately, we might have revised our thinking. We still don’t understand why people spend the night listening to loud music, talking and shouting and not slowing down until 6am. It seems the quiet hours where we are staying occur between 6:30am and 9am. 

  On our first trip to Kathmandu in 2019, I’ll never forget whispering in Jenni’s ear twenty minutes after departing from the airport when I asked her which side of the road they drive. It appears that there are no ‘rules of the road’ However, although everyone seems to do their own thing, such behaviors would never succeed in a western country. We think the secret of the success of a chaotic society is tolerance. When a person cuts off another motorist, goes through a red light or other poor action, while the horns will toot, we’ve never seen anyone lose a temper, become hostile or seek retribution. It’s all accepted as part of the culture. The concept of ‘playing chicken’ is prevalent over in this part of the world. Talking of chickens, one should not be surprised to see cows take a breather and lie down in the road. We have yet to see anyone try to move these sacred beasts. 

  There are many occasions when we attempt to cross a busy road. There are very few traffic lights, and while there are some pedestrian crossings, apparently, motorists are not aware of them. In our initial visit, it really was a problem to make road crossings. Imagine standing on the sidewalk and looking for an opening in say 6-lane, two-way traffic, with no gaps between vehicles and wondering whether one will ever get to the other side. Somedays we really can empathize with Moses and how he must have felt a while back. Nowadays, we’ll step onto the busy road, keep an eye out for the closest car, motorbike or scooter while indicating in a fashion where we’re headed. The motorist will usually move slightly to the side to avoid us (we think…hope) while we take the gap thinking optimistically the next approaching vehicle has noticed us. Once reaching the mid-point of the road, we’ll turn to face the oncoming traffic from the other side. At first, this is a daunting task, but it does get better, I think. Imagine many bikes and cars approaching and one has to find and take the gaps. On some of the motorbikes, there could be a family of four riding, sometimes with a baby or youngster being held over the fuel tank with mom on the phone. While few follow the general rules of the road, the system does work. 

  Jen is about to demonstrate crossing this somewhat quieter road than that of the busier and wider challenges.
One last thing. The roads in most places are rough, incomplete, extremely narrow, always under construction or repair, yet it appears there are very few places where people will not drive. At times, within downtown, it feels as if one is driving through a single lane cave. I think the concept of ‘taking the gap’ was discovered in this city, perhaps devised would be apt. We have hired cars in every country we have visited but for two. They are Peru and of course, Nepal. I think we have been wise regarding our decision in this country. Come to think of it, I’ve never asked Jen whether she’d wish to do the driving in Nepal…to continue when we run out of gas. 

Another window to the city.
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey 

The simple things in and of life...giving a new meaning to the 'dry-cleaner'.