63.04 Nepal: Pokhara: Reaching the Shanti Stupa in light rain...it doesn't get much better.

  In the previous blog (an earlier hike), we show a couple of views of the two temples from the other side of Phewa Lake (south) on the opposite mountains. This blog deals with a steep climb to reach Shanti Stupa, the Japanese World Peace Temple. 

On a rainy day, both the Shanti Stupa and Shiva Temple come into view as we round a bend.
On our way to the stupa, we divert to a hill which provides wonderful views into the valley and surround.
  While we were walking toward a trailhead in the rain today, we remembered why we enjoy being in Nepal. Actually, we enjoy being in most parts of the world that we frequent. It’s partially a state of mind; it encompasses a rather large element of freedom; it encourages the unshackling of bonds but for a few, as well as relinquishing conventions, plus other aspects, too. We’d like to believe it always means holding onto core values, many considered out of date in the modern world. Looks like when we leave the world, we will be taking most of these principles with us...seems not required here any longer. 

  We have never been intimidated by rain provided it falls without lightning bolts illuminating the way. However, we’ve never been too keen to commence activities in the rain. Today, we threw caution to the wind, although it was completely still, and headed out with light backpacks and umbrellas. Our commencement point was well over an hour walk from the apartment. Practically speaking, the hike began once we locked the front door, after dealing with a cockroach. We decided against taking a taxi to the ‘trailhead’ in case of being ‘rained out’. The idea was that we would walk to the commencement point and should poor weather develop then at least we would have completed some exercise. Should the weather improve than we would be penalized with extra hiking. “Cui bono?” Always us...continues below... 

 Along the way, the climb takes its toll.
One of us tests his muscles and endurance in a stressful manner as well as shields the backpack.
Getting close to the stupa.
Jen arrives, almost recovered from recent illness. Brave girl!
A view from one of the peaks.
There was much activity in the streets as it is apparently a festival. Nevertheless, it’s outside the regular tourist season making the town relatively quiet. The shopkeepers sit in the front of their stores daydreaming, sometimes trying to entice us into the shops or conversing with buddies. Frankly, life looks extremely slow and boring for many. As an aside, for the sole trader to make a living it must be extremely difficult. It seems that every 3rd or 4th store sells the same merchandise. In our road alone, probably of a length of 600 metres, there are at least a dozen or more vegetable stores. Restaurants, cafes and general dealers abound. What do we know? The system must work as we see most of the same stores operating on each visit except for the dairy. A delightful young woman proprietor took care of us on our last visit, but the store is now shut. We did read of an activist, extreme group of cows lying in the streets—this might be a reason affecting her business. 

  Back to the walk. After chatting with Buddhi, our landlord, for a while, we headed into the streets of Pokhara toward the lake. We intended to cross over a very narrow part, basically a stream, head through another part of town and then climb the extremely stiff incline of steps and slopes, arriving at the Shanti Stupa. It can be seen from many different parts of the city. In fact, in the previous blog, there are a couple of photographs of this auspicious sight viewed from across the lake and up the mountain on the opposite side. Today, the intention was to visit the temple and try to learn something about life in general, local customs and above all, to challenge ourselves physically, following recent illness. No matter how often walks in this region, it continues to surprise, amaze and uplift. 

  Our walk through the town was most pleasant even with steady rain falling. Once again, we cannot explain the feeling easily but will try. It was as if we were in our own little world amongst this large, unusual society but that we felt we belonged. While we did not see another westerner, we also don’t see ourselves physically (we don't carry a mirror), so we don’t feel we stand-out. Not that we really care. It’s a funny thing but wherever we travel, it's as if we belong there, as if we're at home. We’d like to believe that’s how the world is supposed to operate but we are not quite that naïve. Clearly, we are foreign, we look different and probably are strange as well as talk ‘funny’. Once again, while we have much respect for locals all over the world, we have this feeling of belonging. Call us odd and you’re probably correct. 

  I still haven’t got to the other feeling regarding rain. It felt so pleasant as the rain fell from the clouds, bouncing off the umbrellas with more than occasional drops soaking parts of the body. It was a surreal feeling while walking along the traffic, both pedestrian and motorized, aware of the noise and mobility, but not being part of it. We were in our own space as we made our way directly to our destination with an incredible opportunity awaiting us to climb high to reach the stupa as well as gaze at the Shiva Temple, somewhat higher. The latter was not our intention to reach on the day because of the extra distance we had covered as well as the rain that recommenced after some respite. The previous week we had climbed on the opposite side mountains and had wonderful views and perspectives of these temples. The more one visits these places, the better appreciation one develops of the magnificent surroundings and the foliage, Eden like gardens, should one ignore the litter and incomplete building sites. 

  The few views of Phewa Lake are magnificent, varying throughout the day because of position, light and weather. The flowers at this time of the year are in full bloom. While the weather is extremely humid, there are benefits, perhaps the rain soaking the body and washing off the perspiration as a form of compensation. It is surprising how large the city is, stretching in three directions, a sprawling mass of colorful buildings. As we have mentioned frequently, from distance and height, most things provide a much more attractive view. While at street level things are inclined to be ugly, incomplete and run-down (sorry to mention this Pokhara and Kathmandu) from the mountains, the sights are overpowering. Add the surrounding mountains and natural sights and one cannot help but be overwhelmed. Today, with the low clouds spreading, lifting and returning lower, once again we exercised our privilege of observing miracles of the world. Sometimes it’s frustrating because there is too much happening to absorb fully. Better that. 

  Early stages as we head to the mountains...see paragraph below.
In a touching moment, as we walked in the earlier stages with umbrellas shielding us, Jen remarked that she enjoyed holding Mom's umbrella. After her passing, Jen took possession of this small item and together with a few other pieces, treasures them. The bond between mother and daughter was always beautiful. (I do not use the description 'in-law' as it seems inadequate.) She mentioned that she felt Mom shielding her, being close-by, perhaps even protecting her. Indeed, it was a humbling and incredible few moments. 

  We enter into serious negotiations which concluded with the exchange of upliftment for 3 energy bars.
We’ll conclude with the 'highlight' of the day. After returning from the mountain stupa, we decided to take a bus partway back to the apartment. (In the end, because of a miscalculation, we added much extra to the walk...what's different?) We like the bus ride because it’s an opportunity to observe a facet of society from close quarters. What we really enjoy is the antics of the bus conductors. It’s first-class entertainment from stop-to-stop. It appears there are no formal bus stops but rather, the conductor observes potential passengers standing on the sidewalks. He’ll shout out something, at times alight from the bus, engage in bursts of conversation, bang on the metal to signal for the driver to stop or recommence. This process is performed with aplomb; we often feel like clapping after alighting from the bus at the end of the journey. We might add that we cannot remember ever giving a bus conductor tips before, that is, gratuities, not suggestions on how to improve the service.

 A sprawling city looking good from height, touches the lake.
Standing above the lake and absorbing the magnificent views.
A little ominous on the southern side.
A lot more ominous?
Often on the trails, we might play hide-and-go-seek. This was one such occasion. (Jen in a dark spot, lower-right).
Another early peek at the two temples...
...soon after spotting them.
A room with a view of Eden.

At last, the Shanti Temple. We've never seen it almost deserted such as this.
Across the way, another favorite hiking destination, Sarangkot. (Note the structure on the pinnacle).
Cheers, 

Jenni and Jeffrey  

Another perspective of the Shanti Stupa viewed from across the lake and upon the southern mountains on the Methlang side.